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Well, if you want your ECU to adapt quickly, you should. Disconnect it, stomp on the brakes a few times, then reconnect it. Tip: I have all my settings written
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A True Z Fanatic
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Well, if you want your ECU to adapt quickly, you should. Disconnect it, stomp on the brakes a few times, then reconnect it. Tip: I have all my settings written down on a piece of paper (e.g., radio presets, rpm setting for shift light, etc.) to make it easier to set everything back afterwards. You'll most likely also need to reset your windows (see owner's manual). After you do this, drive it around for a few days, taking care to do a mix of normal and hard driving, and you should be good to go. The more you drive, the more it learns.
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"There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) | 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf. |
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Base Member
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I bought a set of Berk HFC's along with an Invidia Q300 catbacks and a JDW pop charger. Nothing new for folks here, but I did buy an OBDCOM to hook to my computer and car so I can measure my mass air flow and a few engine performance items as I add the mods to the car. I want to see if I can detect a change in the sensors measurements as the mods go on plus I can check and get rid of cel's if they pop up. A little different approach than I've read so far.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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The370Z.com Sponsor
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Great approach! keep us in the loop with your findings
Quote:
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