So a couple questions to help cure my ignorance. There is a vibrating sound coming from my driver side engine compartment that I generally only hear when I turn the wheel and accelerate, only at low speeds such as a left or right turn at an intersection, and not all the time.

Now this raspy baseball car tin sound I hear... I only hear it again when accelerating with generous throttle. I don't hear it when I'm lightly accelerating, with the exception of 4th gear. 5th and 6th is kind of hard to hear with wind and ****.

Do these sounds sound like something is making contact with the exhaust or is it just inherent with having an exhaust this opened up? I can try and make a vid if you guys like to capture the sounds I'm hearing. Everything else sounds magnificent... It burbles, has a deep throaty sound, quiet at cruise and idle, sounds pissed when I'm on it. I'm really happy with everything except what I described.

Thanks guys in advance.

Bump for help. My CEL keeps popping after these headers. Anyone know if this is supposed to happen with PPE Headers?

So what gains do you all think I should gain with the AEM CAI , M370, NST pulley's, and Uprev tune? I already have everything except the tuning software. I may be optimistic, but I'm hoping for at least another 30.

I hate to be negative nancy but don't expect too much. I'm going to guess with all mods, 40 to 50 whp above your baseline.

At the end of the day its still just a naturally aspirated V6.

So when I got my headers installed, that computer hookup wasn't working and couldn't check the SES light. Come to find out, the fuse needed reset. So after I did that, I was able to get a scan. Both bank 1 and bank 2 o2 sensors are not communicating with the ECU. I'm bringing it back to the shop so they can verify their work and troubleshoot the issue. Also does anyone know if Uprev allows you to play with those sensors at all? I was going to buy it when I installed the rest of the stuff, but if this issue pursues, I might have to get it early. Any suggestions?

Here is the original cold start video I took. The exhaust is so loud it shakes the tin roofing on the parking and I feel it thump in my chest.

So tomorrow I'm going to try the steel wool method to try and get the CEL to go away. It's definitely running rich and my mileage is down by a couple mpg. I can smell the gas in the exhaust fumes. It should quiet it down as well. It's been idling around 900-1200 rpm burbling and popping as it sits there. The mechanic is also going to reinspect his work and check to make sure that the 02 sensors didn't go bad. Crossing my fingers.

So this time it is throwing a misfire code. It was P0300. I don't see any definitive fix action for it besides just drive and wait or get a tune. Quick note, the SES light always popped on while I was driving. It seems like most of the others have it pop on during initial startup.

Kinda seems like I'm talking to myself or blogging or something, but just throwing out as I see it. I cleared the P0300 code and came back again. So I'm thinking the only way to get rid of it is a tune. That might take a while to get together. I did have my AFR checked during idle. When it dropped below 900 rpm, it went to 13.5, and when it revved up between 900-1200, it goes to 18 and sits there till the next stutter back down to under 900 rpm. From what my mechanic is telling me, a good AFR at idle should be 14.5, anyone know more about this?

From what I have read that seems a little lean,18? I would go get an uprev tune. Also can you try to repost the video it doesn't seem to be working, thanks.

I'll repost all links to the first post.

So back to the rasp issue I have... Should I remove the cat and put on a resonator instead? It kills me when the car sounds awesome, then rasp rears it's head and sounds like a pissed off chainsaw. It would at least give me the option to run cat or resonator and definitely cheaper than another exhaust. Idk if it's worse inside the cabin than it is outside, I just don't want it.

I would keep the cat on the xyz pipe.

I pulled the codes at Autozone today and had 2x P0300, P0171, P0133, and P0153. Can these all be attributable to my exhaust? No more than 40 miles later, SES is on again.

For the P0300 code, did you handle the MAF sensors at all when you installed the AEM intake?

I had that code up until I cleaned the MAF sensors.

I haven't installed the intake yet. When the SES light kicks on, I can damn near guess when it's going to do it just by listening to the idle. If the idle fluctuates too much, it kicks on. It's been doing it since the install. The shop says when they lengthened the 02 sensors, they extended the wires one at a time to make sure they didn't cross any of the connections. I also told them to remove the o2 sensors before they get crazy with the impact wrench trying to remove the stock exhaust and headers. When I was watching the AFR's the idle would stumble and shows running rich, then the idle would jump over 1k-1200 rpm and show really lean. These codes have so many reasons why they might have been reported, it's difficult to find out what caused them. I'm thinking of just throwing the rest of the parts on just to observe what happens to my existing issues...

Didn't Chuck have similar SES lights? I know he had the PPE longtubes as well.

Can you link the page? I haven't found anything yet

I remember he had some issues with his Z that eventually made him get rid of it.

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...installed.html

I won't look at replacing them until I get it tuned. Has anyone reported vibrations behind the firewall? Sounds like a heat shield buzzing from resonance at low rpm. I want to find it and choke it. I think I might try that resonator when I have a spare $150. I don't think it's too much out of pocket to see what the differences would be. The headers make power, there is no doubt about it, but I just want to finish cleaning up these small issues already!

Here is a new drive by vid. It may well rank as the worst ever lol. There is a plane in the background and the damn camera is pointed at the sky...... but it did capture the sound, so mission accomplished.

Woot! Monday I'm dropping the car off at Force Fed Racing again to get my oil cooler, NST Pulleys, intake manifold and CAI installed. I'll be taking it easy on her afterwards as I still need Uprev. I also found 93 octane fuel here in Vegas, I'm hoping that helps.

so does that exhaust setup drone at all?

It does between 2000 and 2300 rpm. It isn't bad off throttle, but noticeable when accelerating in a higher gear such as 4th, 5th or 6th. You can hear the drone in the video where I drive it around the block. It's at the end of the video where I'm coming off the highway going downhill. I try and show the drone. I usually just throw it in a diff gear, speed up or slow down if I am avoiding it.

Regarding the rasp, I think I overreacted. Now that I've been driving it more, I only hear it when the exhaust and engine is cold. Once at operating temperatures i don't hear it anymore. The big thing I'm fighting now is this vibration coming from behind my firewall. It's much more prevalent when everything is warm. It resonates and buzzes under 3000 rpm. It will do it when I come off the clutch and rpm dips and when I cruise at about 2200-2400 rpm. I have an audio clip but I don't know how to upload it.

The last video I took, I didn't know it sounded like that outside the car. It sounded surprisingly exotic. I don't think I heard any setup on these forums sound quite like it. In retrospect, I'm happy with it and think I'm pretty lucky considering the exhaust, Y pipe, and the headers are three completely different manufacturers. It could have sounded like a$$.

I'll be doing a dyno the night I drop it off because the weather warmed up a bit and I'm running 93 instead of 91 this time around. I'm not sure if it's a good idea to throw it on the dyno without a tune with all the parts installed. Definitely after the tune, I'll post those results

Car is at the shop. Should be done in a couple days. I'll post pics, vids and dyno results when I get them.

Quick update, just ordered uprev, hopefully I can get it tuned soon sooner rather than later

Was at the shop till 230am watching my mechanic work. Ran into a couple snags. On the back of the M370, there isn't a place to put this sensor that was onn the top right of the stock one. There is also a hole that we plugged up that looks like a line is supposed to run to it, but we didn't have any more to run. The mounting points were also a bit different in the rear, but everything is attached. Anyone have instructions for the M370 so I can verify everything is good?

The AE performance oil cooler kit I bought from a member didn't have the power steering lines to extend out, so I have to make a trip to Autozone to get some of that $hit.

We haven't gotten to the pulleys yet. We are looking for the best way to do them.

Anyone who owns an AEM CAI, did you have to take off the tire and liner to get the intake pipe in? It was being a pain in the ***. Besides space constraints navigating the intake tube down, everything is going in fine.

AE performance oil cooler... looks like hot sex. Pretty straight forward install. Missing two hoses for the power steering relocation, but that was resolved.

M370 kit was missing a couple fitting and hosing from seller (bought many moons ago), so we purchased what we needed and got that squared away. Besides the initial confusion... Very easy to install

Pulleys were about to start before I left. He was loosening the fan shroud to get to them. He also intended on removing the alternator and putting it on a vice to remove the alternator pulley. This looks like a pain in the ***.

Hopefully I can pick it up tonight. I only see him work after 5pm lol,

The AEM CAI and AE Oil cooler have some slight problems together. The windshield washer doesn't fit in it's new location because the big *** oil cooler is in the way. Oil cooler wins and the I'm removing the windshield washer fluid completely. I'll be picking up in an hour or two. Will post updates then.

Just picked up the car and something is up with it and I'm not sure what it is. The idle feels and sounds lumpy like a cammed motor. The lumpiness doesn't go away the more it revs, it just speeds it up. My butt dyno tells me power is missing and the SES light blinks furiously any time I accelerate. I'm letting the computer try and tune itself for a few days before I bring it back and / dyno it. I took a video of me driving home for you all to listen, maybe you might know what is causing it or if it doesn't sound right. I also think I tracked that damn metal resonance to the heatshield that used to be by the cats. I'm going to get it removed and see how that works.

So the M370 intake manifold was going ape $hit on my car. Don't know exactly what happened, but I put the stock one back on and everything went back to normal and I made more power than my last dyno pulls. I'll be bringing the manifold with me to Motordyne to see whats up with it. Looking at the dyno sheets, I gained 16 whp with the pulleys and CAI. Two dyno pulls were done immediately after the changeover. I'm thinking it would most likely be around 320whp after I put some miles on it. AFR's are in the mid to high 13's right now. With the M370, it was in the 14's. I have no idea why it ran so bad.

Full bolt ons Dyno

I took the DRF files and loaded Winpep in my PC and created a graph of the gains. I was a bit surprised to see at least 10whp across the rpm range and even higher at over 6500rpm to redline from my previous and a huge improvement over stock. I think the pulleys really did a great job increasing hp under the curve and the intakes showing a boost higher in the rpm range where the stock intakes run out of breath. To zoom for any hotkey nooblets, just do ctrl +

Better images updated

Testing the M370 hypothesis tonight on the stock manifold.

Well, that wasn't it... I unplugged a throttle body and the engine was much quieter and wouldn't rev past 1500 rpm. It sounded nothing like it did with the M370. Idk...

M370 going to get put on Monday again

Finally updating this. When the M370 was put in, I lost over 12 whp and there was almost no low end gain. I tested at least 3 times on diff days to confirm. But I don't think it was the M370 manifold that's the culprit. A few weeks ago I decided to test my pre cat O2 sensors. I was trying to get a mail tune from uprev and it was untunable because one of my pre cat O2 sensors was not reading correctly. I narrowed it down to the passenger side exhaust manifold O2 sensor. I just placed the part on order and will be waiting for it to come in. This is most likely why I've had that SES light with P0300 for the past few months. My car had absolutely no power under 2krpm, I had minivans pull off lights with more grunt than mine would. My gas mileage is averaging only 15.5 mpg, I can smell gas in my fumes, and I can hear the engine stumble. Looking at the logging info, the uprev tuner told me that the ECU isn't reading the AF properly, so to be on the safe side, it's just dumping as much fuel as possible. The explains everything that was going on. I'll be doing a followup after I get it fixed with new numbers. Now that it's summer though, power most likely be lower than the sool spring and winter days.

OK, but point is, faulty sensor, and now it's fixed and feeling better?

Damn, you've been having some sh*tty luck with this car lately. I hope you get things worked out soon!

Faulty sensor that has not been replaced yet. It may have been damaged during the header install. It's on order and ill be replacing when it arrives.

Added pics of exhaust and vehicle on my profile.

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Part also came in and getting it fixed this week.