One of the journalist, and I have forgotten who was road testing it, ran into this problem. I believe the entire brake pads separated as well, but the rotors definitely went to hell.
Nice pics = rep point :tup: |
I tracked my 350z quite a bit. I ran stock rotors, SS lines, ATE super blue fluid, and Hawk 9012 blue all the way around...AND it had the wimpy brakes...brakes were Excellent all day long...and they were usually 30 min sessions..I wouldn't advise the 9012 (though i think they discontiunued them) But i think the Hawk DTCs would be good.
Before any track day i changed the oil. Ran HP+ brakes on the street, so i swapped in the 9012 the day before the event, then bled the brakes system, then went out to bed the pads in. Every event i had no brake troubles. On another note...i really like the sound of your car...geez. Im gunna go stillen all the way as well...but i want test pipes. I had that same hiss that you get on the de-revv on my 350z (equipped w/ headers, TP, CBE), some people thought it was a BOV it was so loud..LOL. |
I used ATE Super Blue and Hawk HP+ at the autocross and the problem was exactly the same. It seems to be that once the heat buildup reaches the calipers it goes to hell. Autocross isn't quite as punishing as track because you get 10 minutes of cool down between runs, but once the heat soaks in there it's all done. So much for the sport brakes, I'm beginning to think that the smaller floating caliper on the base model might work better than this sh!t.
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^lol no. Stock lines stretch, but not like that...
Im thinking its more along the lines of terrible rotors. I feel like the rotors suck so bad that they are causing the whole system to reach temperatures that none of it is designed to see. I used ATE Super Blue this time around too and I'm pretty sure I boiled the crap out of it in those instances. I think that after this point the rotors also get all scored and that makes things even worst. |
Actually it has a little label on it that came with it that said do not attach to glass. Unless it's a different than the one my friend has, but they look identical.
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Concerning the brakes. The rotors are not the problem. It's the pads. Get better pads. I found a overall good pad for the street and occasional track use. Ferado DS2500s are great for this. After several track events (some in 100 degree temps), and autox, and hill country cruises the brakes are still going strong. I also have SS lines and Motul 600 fluid.
My brakes got so hot that my Brembos went from Gold to Brown for a while during that event then turned back to gold. The caliper themselves was 800 degree's when I tested it but the brakes were holding up! Still on stock rotors after 16k of miles. |
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If this http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/t.../ERMEHMS06.jpg Is happening to two different people with two different pads, then I'd say we have a problem in our hands. Also if I remember right, it happened during one of those Car and Driver type reviews a while back. Yeah, everyones brembos do that at trackdays. My STI ones did too...except not the whole caliper, just the lettering goes from red to black....and stayed black. It doesn't turn back once it does that. |
I would think if it is two separate people with different pads then the rotors themselves may be to blame. Got an idea for you RCZ. I'll send you my non-sport brakes and you send me your's. That way you can compare. And since the sport brakes suck so bad you can keep mine. I'm just nice like that.
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But I will give you guys some track videos. Be patient, they aren't done processing. When they do, they will work. [youtubehq]Fahxv2WyKXM[/youtubehq] [youtubehq]X_UJXJrQBlE[/youtubehq] |
Here's an edmunds test with the same rotor problems. 2009 Nissan 370Z Touring: Track Tested! | Long-Term Road Tests Blog on Edmunds' Inside Line
How do you think aftermarket rotors would fix this problem? |
they dissipate heat better and are made of much better materials specifically designed for higher temps.
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Hmm, I was not aware of the material difference. For most instances, I was under the assumption that plain rotor blanks would be fine on the track.
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yeah it should be fine for our application, but obviously its not from what we've seen so far. I am just going to get some slotted stoptechs or some DBA. PF makes some nice quality 2 piece ones.
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I need some standard one piece rotors for competing in stock class at auto-x, but I'll be interested in some nice 2 piece rotors for the track.
I sent an inquiry to DBA USA. Edit: I couldn't find any rotors from PF even for the 350Z so it doesn't seem likely they will make any for the 370Z. |
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Sorry for all the questions, but RCZ, why do you think you did not have any rotor issues during your other track events? And though scored, will the rotors lose any braking ability?
Also how do the stoptech aero-rotors compare to the PF and DBA rotors? |
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Yes scored rotors will loose some braking performance. They do eventually get smoothed over again though. I have about 80% of my brakes back...they get a little better every time I drive the car, but I think they are doing getting better... As far as the rotors go. I think the DBAs are the best. PF's and stoptechs are around the same. The Aero's look nice though! I will consider them! |
Incorrect. The DS2500 are Street/Track pad. The DS3000s are Track only pads. Been discussed on the Z forums for a while.
I had HP+ on my G35 and they did that crap to my rotors when they faded. I will never use Hawk pads again because of that. Either way it is starting to look like a soft rotor issue. Quote:
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I have the USA rep for DBA checking with DBA in Australia on ETA.
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DS2500s weren't enough for me man thats all Im saying. ...
Cool about DBA, let me know! They gotta be two piece. Right now the Stoptech Aero's are looking very nice from a price standpoint. |
Well you can't daily drive with the DS3000s or they will eat your rotors up fast and squeal like mad. Plus they need heat before they start to stop better, so your car would be a insurance claim waiting to happen with those on the street.
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Which is why Im not buying either of those. I'm going to buy dedicated track pads...
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And the DS3000s are dedicated track pads?
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I get that you like those pads. They aren't the best out there though, there are much better pads for the money.
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he must me great with the ladies.
hey girl...whats ur name girl: get lost u will like me! girl: creep feel my brake pad! :shakes head: |
You could also fabricate a brake cooling kit :)
Just get some flexible HVAC tubes to channel air to the inner wheel. It can greatly reduce heat soak. I do not own a Z yet but on my current car I have this setup because I drive down a super steep moutain for about 15-20 miles every week-end and my rotors seem to handle much better. You can even have the air be channeled onto the rotor but that will affect many things. Surprised no one has mentioned this! I have a question actually. is there a short tube stillen setup? i see the pipes come in two pieces. Like dual SRI's? Another thing you can try is get a beatrush under panel. It reduces engine temp and increases downforce by pulling the air out of the engine bay depending on your speed. this could also take some of the heat from your brakes and suck it out before you hit the brakes. the only problem with getting the underpanel is that if you have a brake cooling system it might suck out some of the air being fed to the rotors, inner wheel. just some thoughts, Regis |
Actually RCZ has mentioned that already, multiple times. I suspect he'll be the first to have a custom-fabbed-up set of front brake ducts from the grill fangs to the rotors.
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Sorry if I missed him mentioning it. What do you think of a beatrush underpanel for our cars though? Would be great for SRI's (more practical for a DD) since it sucks out heat soak from the engine bay. This setup is for a 350z z33, so I am guessing they will do it for the 370z soon considering they have one for the GTR already O_o There is also another thing you can do to suck the air out of the general wheel well area. You can make holes near the rear side of the wheel well, so the underbody can suck the air out. This will create enough pressure deviation (in theory) to suck air from outside the wheels into the wheel well and out of the wheel well. If you get a beatrush underpanel it could effectively suck more air out and if you plan to go turbo you will still have room for an intercooler since the traditional ram air system will be obsolete. |
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Sorry just speaking from experience. |
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Dude, I LOVE IT! You live on Brickell Key. I lived there for two years while I was in Miami. Rented a place at the Island Club. Man I miss living on that island...
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hehe yup :)
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That is all I will say as I am done with you. |
OK, Ferodo's are the best pads in the world folks. Look no further than DS3000's there are NO better pads anywhere. In fact I heard all other brake pads manufacturers are going out of business because they simply can't match the performance of these run of the mill mediocre pads.
Clearly someone who lists Xpel/DEI/Alpine/valentine and Llumar as mods and thinks the Entry level track pads made by ferodo are the best pads ever is someone that will be missed. No really, I will miss your input. Don't have an air freshener to throw in with the mods? Maybe like "Minty Madness" mod or like "Strawberry Blast" mod? Oooh I know... Straight from japan, "JDM Squash" mod!? Give me a break, thanks for being done. |
HEY! I resemble that last remark! The guys at Carboy here in Houston talked me into picking up one of those JDM Squash-scented air freshener things. They're actually pretty badass for an air freshener, I like it :)
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