Thanks man! that gives me hope! lol

they better make a bunch....

I am ready to for some tubes....hahah:tup:

hey atl what mods do you currently run?

obx style Y pipe, top speed cbe and K&N drop in.

^ Value for $$ right there

got my tubes today!!!!! anyone else getting theirs?

Any more details and/or tips on how to install the tubes?

Just a note- they are a tight fit. Take your time. Remove the air box bolts completely- you'll need the wiggle room. I started from the MAF tube and then worked the tube on the throttle body. Also, I trimmed a small notch into the left side vent tube for a better fit there.

Whiskey,
Thanks for the installation input.
Philipp

Got my tubes in middle of the last week.. unfortunately I have been working crazy hours/working nights so I have yet to install.. thanks to everyone for the fyi's on the install!

Should I pull the trigger on HPS post MAF tubes too?
 

Hi Guys,

I currently have BERK cats, Tanabe Y-pipe and K&N Drop ins. Will these be helpful for my current config. Is there any noticeable growl from the engine from these.

I also notice my berk cats are a little raspy (under load) when they are cold is this normal?

Appreciate any help.

Cheers-KS

only a little, it was audible to me, but just barely. worth it anyway since you have the drop ins.

I heard no appreciable difference in intake note. Should net you another 3- 5 whp at various points in the rev range.

Yep, except maybe for the resonated ones, all aftermarket TP's and cats are raspy as hell around 2700-2800 RPM, especially when cold.

Is it necessary to disconnect the battery when installing these tubes. Any "Check Engine" lights after the install?

What exactly is everything I need to purchase in order to install this myself.

just the pipes itself....nothing more

What filters do you guys recommend?

allot of guys will tell you K&N, but i personally went with AFE dry flow...much better imho

no need to disconnect battery for intake installs. just dont try to start the car without the MAF's plugged in. :icon17:

Yea - if you are careful, it can be done without unplugging the MAF at all. ;)

agreed, when i get rid of these kn's, they will be AFE.

I would keep the K&N's or perhaps try the AFE oiled filters.

All the currently available dry flow filters on the market are superior only when caked with dirt.

Note that AEM shows a graph of this on their website (they call your attention away from that, but it is clear as day if you review the graph carefully) and even AFE points out that their oiled filter is superior for performance to the dry flow.

Unless you have filters utterly filled with gunk (i.e., off road or enduro racing), the oiled ones still win for flow with only marginally poorer dirt filtration.

As to the need for the marginally better filtration, unless you get a UOA that shows high sillicon (after break in is completed) or have a gunked MAF sensor, you can assume that it's working fine and take the better flowing one.

sorry man its all over thier website why AEM chooses DRY FLOW vs oiled on thier winning racing teams.

The Best Filtration AEM has reinvented the Lifetime performance aftermarket air filter. Our DRYFLOW Synthetic filter is the first performance air filter that does not require filter oil to filter and trap dirt and contaminants, and delivers industry leading filtration and durability that is unmatched by our competitors.

AEM’s DRYFLOW Synthetic filter eliminates the hassle of re-oiling after cleaning and has better filtration and dust trapping capabilities than any other performance aftermarket filter. AEM's unique non-woven polyester element filters out 98.6% of airborne dust in initial efficiency (99.4% cumulative efficiency), and filters down to ONE MICRON of particulate! For comparison, a human hair is about 100 microns thick. This improved efficiency translates into longer engine life by keeping more ring- and seal-eating dirt out of your engine, with no degradation in engine power compared to our oiled air filters. taken direclty from thier website

I've talk to too many people, engine builders, ect...all say dry flow is the way to go

AEM begs to differ. This is a graph they used to have on their website. Note that the dry flow outperforms only when there is a ton of dirt on it. A clean to moderately K&N flows better.

Actually, according to AEM, K&N also outflows all the AFE filters too...

http://www.the370z.com/members/jordo...aem-vs-k-n.jpg

100 grams of dirt is a lot of dirt (about 1 cup!). The moral is, clean your K&N more frequently.

If this graph is no longer there, it's probably because others noticed this fine point too... can't sell filters when you clearly demonstrate it aint all that it's claimed to be.

The major advantage of the dry material, at least at this point in the tech, is no oiling. The advantage in filtration is marginal and the perfromance benefits mainly emerge when it is caked with dirt (>120 grams).

They aren't bad, but they definitely aren't better when reasonably clean.

1 graph proves nothing. When speaking on filters constructed in the same exact way i.e. layers, materials, a dry flow filter (brandless) will out flow an oiled filter every time. There is TONS of sceintific evidence to back this up,especially military testing that proves this. Lots of flow bench testing, and pressure drop testing. Its very easy to get confused and works in favor of K&N to talk about Oiled vs Dry becasue the construction is never consistent across the board for a true and accurate measure. Given an equal measure, dry filters out flow oiled ones everytime.

Okay... dude, use whatever makes you happy :tiphat:

If you have any of that data you mentioned handy, I'd be interested to see it.

You gave me the AEM sales pitch and I responded with an interesting table they used to have on their website that points to an alternate conclusion -- at least with less than 120 grams of dirt packed on the filter.

Again, that graph did not come from K&N -- it came from AEM. If it's inaccurate, blame them, but it clearly shows that their filter media is superior in flow only with 120 grams or more dirt packed on.

Thanks Jordo.
-KS

Thanks 6SPD, I'll order a set too. You guys seems to be pretty happy with it.
-KS

let's keep on subject fellas. we r supposed to be discussing the hps postmaf tubes. filtration by different filters is a whole other thread.

right on. back on topic, i wish the tubes came with better clamps. the ones you get are so awkward and clumsy... and in the way... and annoying... and irritating...

Just a heads up for anyone ordering the afe dry filters from amazon; they are saying part # 31-10010 fits the 370z when it clearly does not. Now I have to return two filters. The correct part number of 31-10173 comes courtesy of GZ3.

here are a few, some good reads simply examples of dry out performing K&N oiled...since K&N is pretty much the pinnacle of oiled filters. There Sooo many companies coming out with thier own dry filters that are beating K&N left and right...oil is gonna be phased out soon...its just old school

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

Amsoil Cold Air Induction Filters replace K&N

KLR air filter test

Foam Filter vs. Gauze Filter vs. Dry Filter - Kawasaki Teryx Forum

^ post 3 has a good you tube video


theres also a couple of youtube videos that really explain the dry vs oiled that i cant find


I have tons of SAE/ISO testing data available at my job too if you want, PM me...i dont want to jack this thread any more...sorry guys

^^^ thanks, dude -- I'll check them out :tiphat: