My gaskets seem to be fine at this time but out of curiosity, what gaskets are you guys having issues with? Top or bottom or both?

Kostick, My rattling literally hung around until the 1500 mile point. I really did not think it was going to go away. I drove the car as much as I possibly could on the highway. This past weekend I started up the car and I was like, woah, I don't hear it anymore. drove with my head out the window (ace ventura style) and was smiling all the way home.

Top part close to exhaust manifold.

Hmmmm .... that's not what I remember taking off but I'll call the dealer to confirm.

I agree with you though, we should not have to change these out like this. I tried using high temp rtv on the last set and they still only lasted about 1000 miles.

I may have to try the Berk Copper gaskets again - they seemed to hold up the best.

I haven't been able to enjoy the new Gemini yet because of these freaking gaskets!:shakes head:

^^

I wonder if climate is a factor. Texas and Oklahoma have been roasted this summer. 107 yesterday ....

Thank you wind.zero.

And yes, a leak will reduce gas mileage because when air gets into the exhaust, it fools the sensors into seeing a lean condition, the ECU tries to compensate by richening up the mixture and thus gas mileage goes down.

Tony... if one were to make a template and cut it out of aluminum... would that work? If so, what size would be best to do so? I figure aluminum would be best in case it needs to bend a little here and there to conform to whatever pipes it's mating up with.

It would need a bead rolled into it.

oh ok... well can't do that one then lol.

and geez man... get some sleep... you're a nightowl like I am.

Tony I pm'd you regarding gaskets for my replacement set of pipes.

So, on g35driver.com I was told that AWD version will come very soon! My friends on the russian Infiniti forum (club-fx.ru) are waiting for them too, as I made some presentation of the ART pipes and people are interested in them (btw, we all got AWD sedans, no RWD option for the Eastern Europe).

Currently, on my VQ35HR I have: Berk's HFC -> Moroso Spiral Flow 2.5" resonators -> Borla H-pipe true dual cat-back. Borla itself is rather raspy and loud, but when I installed Berk's HFC the rasp and drone were unacceptable to me, so I put Moroso Spiral Flow resonators between HFC and cat-back and it really helped.

My question is: should I remove these Spiral Flow resonators when I install ART pipes to my Borla or leave them at place? I beleive ART pipes would be less raspy and loud than Berk's? And I'm not sure if these 2.5" Spiral Flow resonators affect the perfomance (hp/tq) - though they shouldn't...

The ARTs are almost identical in volume to the Berks. When I made the switch it sounded exactly the same volume wise, there is actually a little more rasp on lift off but you don't really notice it while driving.

Yes, we are working on it now. In fact, the change is already made. What needs to be done is confirmation of fitment on a number of the AWD vehicles. What fits on one test vehicle doesn't necessarily insure it will fit on all AWD vehicles due to car to car tolerance variation. But this will be quickly resolved once it goes out to several local AWD vehicles to confirm fitment. As for the Moroso resonators, keep them in, I can't see how it would hurt in any way.

We also used the change opportunity to make a couple other new improvements.:tup:
1) The hardening fiberglass has been eliminated so there is no longer a break in period.

2) The retainer screen has been eliminated. Its what originally trapped the beads and created the bead rattle problem.

3) Many people have been requesting the Chrome ceramic coating. ...And now we can. It couldn't be done previously due to beads getting trapped behind the screen but the screen has been eliminated. So now there is no longer a particle trap of any kind. The chamber is easily and completely cleared out before installation by simply turning it upside down before putting them on.

4) Vibration dampening tabs that connect to the stock catalytic converter brace are now included. These connecting tabs are not connected to, or for structural support, of the main pipe. The tabs (or bracket) is connected to the side branch only. These connecting tabs greatly damp the engine vibrations transmitted into the resonator and make for a quieter ride while cruising.

5) High temperature silicone RTV is now included in every kit. It is to be applied to the inlet gasket upon installation and will insure a good permanent seal.

.

Tony: Regarding #4, can you send me pictures of how I can have my shop apply these themselves? Would a simple weld job of these dampers suffice if I were to buy them from you? Or are you doing something a little more intense to make sure they don't crack from the vibrations during low revs?

If you could send me a picture for reference, I'd really love to have these fabbed up for my ART Pipes. I'm getting some pretty loud shifter-slap/rattle in my gearknob when in 5th gear at 1600-1800RPM. It's not a major issue since I don't really drive in that range much, but I would still like to dampen the amount of vibration in my gearknob, regardless.

Its a small "L" shaped bracket welded to the side branch. About 1" x 1" x 1" with a bolt hole in it. It has nothing to do with cracking but it will damp out vibrations. I'll get pictures of them taken this weekend and have them posted shortly.