To most, yeah the z1 post maf's are nice and strong. I could barely bend em myself. So either they good or im a pansy. or both. ShadowSTFU!

No idea man sometimes it makes me mad. I shipped some steelers baby booties and steelers bib's to my sister for her new born, 15 days not they havnt gotten it.

I have the ability to measure my intake air temperature using my Kenwood 9980HD head unit. The stock setup and the HPS setup are both excellent cold air intakes. On a hot day and sitting idle with the engine up to full operating temperature, the intake temps go fairly high at around 110 to 120 degrees. As soon as I start moving the temperatures drop dramatically and once I'm driving at more than about 30MPH, the temperatures are within a few degrees of ambient temperature. Any of the silicone based tubes should perform identically unless they have extremely thin sidewalls.

I am very curious to see how hot the temperature gets with the G3 intake since the intake pipes are metal and much longer, which should be terrible for heat soak. I would also expect the temperature drop to occur much slower once you are moving due to the amount of mass that need to be cooled with those tubes. Hopefully someone with the ability to measure intake air temps will get G3's soon so we can compare temperatures. I have a feeling that dyno numbers and real world driving numbers will be dramatically different.

Don't feel too bad I had a hard time trying to get them to fit too because they were challenging to bend. I ended up just unbolting air boxes and fitting the tubes in both ends then pushing the whole intake back into the socket so I could bolt the box back in place. The tubes were a perfect fit and required no trimming but they were just a pain in the a$$ to bend.

the outside is going to be hot no matter what. It's the inside that matters.

True... but they just seem a little thin to me but the above post about the intake temps is good to know...

This is good info, thanks. Would you think that a Silicone tube that is thicker would help the temperatures more or waste of money to switch?

I doubt there would be much difference unless is was substantially thicker, but that would make it very difficult to install. Silicone does not conduct heat well, so as soon as air velocity increases, the internal temperatures of the tubes cool quickly regardless of how hot they feel on the outside. I am curious to see how long it takes the long tube intakes with metal piping to recover from heat soak. I expect it to take much longer for the temperatures to drop and they probably will never get as cold as the stock or HPS temperatures due to the long metal pipes. The stock positioning of air draw is ideal for getting cold air in without water ingestion issues.

Today received Z1 hoses. Really fast shipping to Europe (got FedEx at same price as USPS express delivery). Glad to chose Z1 ones, they look really nice. Tomorrow will be installed, so will see if is necessary to unmout strut bar.

Probably not totally necessary, but made it much easier.
http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...installed.html

i just put the breather on and did not put it back on its holder. it seems sturdy enough to hold its own. plus my tubes are round all the way for better air flow.

I did the same...

my HPS tubes are available. $85 shipped in the CONTUS. Approx 3000 miles on them.

Can't decide on the color lol, blue or black?

I'm leading toward black.

Necro bump.

Alright guys, I just installed my Z1 Post-Maf tubes, but I didn't use any of the clamps. The tubes fit super snug and I didn't think anything of it as they were pictured on Z1's website without any of the clamps installed. Then I look here and everyone has the main clamps as well as the annoying little ones. Should I not worry about it or tear it all apart again to put the clamps on? It'll be a few weeks before I have the time again...

Necro bump, lol. My worry would be that the material will expand from heat...and then you are sucking air in places you don't wanna be....

I'd put the clamps on just to be safe.

You can get the clamps on without taking the tubes off btw. Just unscrew the nut on the clamp all the way until it comes apart :xmas3:

I'm sure it is fine for the time being since the tubes are under vacuum when the engine is runnin

What intakes have you had on the car, just curious?

Received mine yesterday. Not expecting any noticeable hp gains, just want to clean up the intake at a reasonable cost. K&N drop in filters helped the throttle response.

Instructions say to remove strut bar, engine cover, and a half dozen other intake items, along with disconnecting the battery and MAF sensors. Thinking this is overkill.

Plan on trying to squeeze this in like everyone else, if necessary I'll remove the strut bar and/or engine cover.

IMO the MAF sensor is not being changed or moved so no reason to disconnect.

OK, so I did the install this morning. My observations.

I did not remove the strut brace. I did loosen the stock airbox to allow some wiggle room, also helped to remove the front part of the engine cover to get to the one bolt on the passenger side for the PCV.

I had to trim the small PCV nipples as they would not allow the tubes to sit properly. Easy to do with an xacto knife. Be patient and expect some lost skin. The tubes are flexible so you can bend them quit a bit.

There is a resonator box on the stock tubes on the driver's side this is not needed after the install. Removing the clamps from the stock would require cutting off the rubber nipple that holds them in place... your choice.

After inspecting the stock tubes vs the HPS. I can't see how this will add any hp, but is more for dress. Will get cleaned up and take her for a spin today.

Debating about disconnecting the battery to supposedly reset the MAF sensors. Anyone else tried this? Results?

I disconnected the battery during the install and reconnected when done. But I have no idea if it's needed or not. The HPS tubes and drop-in filters is a nice enhancement and I do notice it on the butt-Dyno.

Next mod for me is the CUSCO oil catch can. Although finding a place to mount it should be interesting.

Thread dredge for any late (later than me) buyers:
The red versions of the HPS tubes have a longer-than-usual (vs the black version) breather port. I nearly cut them to half the length, on both sides. I could've cut the passenger a bit more, too. I believe the blue ones are the same story. See product pics and compare them with the black ones.

Went with these over the Z1's because I was thinking they'd be less of a wrestle and the presumed lesser stiffness would kinda be nicer against vibrations. Part of me kinda wishes I went the Z1 route and added breather hoses at the same time, though.

For noobs, this is doable without unplugging the MAF sensors and undoing the strut bar, or using grease. I don't even lift. Undo the air boxes and front engine cover, though. Really the only hurdle was the breathers. I took off the driver's side altogether since the resonator on the stock tube was in the way to pull things off safely in my mind.

Perspective of gains is what's already been discussed in this thread. Standalone (I'm still waiting for my aFe drop-ins), I just don't believe there's anything to expect by principal. At most it'd be at higher rpms, but very marginal because it's not literal forced induction. There's no reason to believe Nissan purposely supplied ****-flowing OEM tubes for what is a vacuum scenario. In combination with filters, however, I can make sense of Jordo's results.

I have tons and tons of details and dynos here if you havent already found it:
http://www.the370z.com/south-east-re...-thread-6.html

There's some useful info earlier, but starting from p. 6 onward is probably most informative :tiphat:

That post with the Cobb+K&N combo was exactly what sealed the deal for me.

I didn't catch if the K&N vs aFe gains were confirmed, and with today's test drive I didn't notice anything, but it's a small gain so that was expected.

In general it's still a gain in being pitted with buying replacement filters repeatedly in the long run. It's a nicer looking/finished filter as well. That plus never bothering with bumper removals/mounting relocation/cutting/heat soak and vibrations vs long tube CAI's, it's as safe as mods come.

I'd probably have gone with G3's if my Z was a weekend car instead of daily.