Cobb tubes and...
 

Always a fan of the free market, I'm wondering if anyone else makes post MAF tubes to compete with COBB. I haven't seen any other players in the market for that piece.

top secret has titanium ones that cost a million dollars..haha

Amuse is said to be developing one made from the hollowed out femur of a unicorn and treated with leprechaun tears for heat resistance.

...

Ok, I'm done now.

Seriously though. Does anyone else make these parts?

^ is there a big market demand for them? I know I wanted to get them but only a few people picked em up, I don't think anyone even did a dyno, afaik. Doubt there's any HP gain from them, just better airflow since theyre smooooooth

I don’t know of any others besides Cobb.

I got a bit creative with my intake when I noticed my Takeda's were sucking in too much hot air (Monitored with Cobb AP). I saw someone sell there Takeda for 125.00 to another member which is the same price as the Cobb Tubes so... I cut my stock box to fit the Takeda Tubing and bought some AFE Pro Dry S drop ins. I think it does better then the SRI in the low end and mid range with this setup. Air Intake temps now stay between 5-10 over ambient.

I do however miss the growl that the Takeda's produced.

You have an interesting set-up. I like the ingenuity to turn around the Takeda intake. I think I'll just stick with the Cobb's so I don't have to do any cutting.

Why did you choose AFE over K&N? Just curious.

Found these
CorSport Online Store: Nissan - 09+ Nissan 370Z - 87-68426BLK

I think you have about the best setup there is for our intake. Nissan should have made the intakes to look like this stock.

Ummm... read this on the HPS description:

"The thickness of the tubing, which is much thicker than the OEM piece, allows for an insulating affect that prevents the intake charge from increasing in temperature before it is introduced into the turbocharger. During competition the engine bay has a number of heat sources such as the radiator, exhaust manifold and turbocharger itself that can drastically effect the temperature of the intake charge."

I'm thinking they either copy and paste their item descriptions or they are a bit uneducated. Either way the hoses do look like they fit, but I'd probably pay the extra few bucks for Cobb, just my $0.02. Also, the constant torque clamps that appear to be in the pic are very nice but are too much for a stock intake hose on a plastic airbox. One or two turns beyond what is needed and those will bend the bejunkus out of the round plastic easily. I know because I did it on my last car by accident. Better off sticking with mid-grade stainless worm-gear clamps if the car is not boosted.

I decided to run the AFE because its an oil free dry filter. I know most issues with the K&N and the MAF is from over oiling. When I ran the K&N's on other cars I think I may have been under oiling, basically the AFE are fail proof. And they do flow pretty well. To clean just spray them with the garden hose and let dry.


Thanks Zsteve! I am glad they turned out the way they did and the extra bit of chrome under the hood is nice as well.

+1! These look nice - ordered me a pair!

Where were you able to order the AFE's from and do you have the part number? Cant seem to find anywhere that has them and I dont see them on the AFE website. Thanks!

31-10173 aFe Pro-Dry S Air Filters $48.95. You will need two so a total of $97.90.

I picked them up from: AutoAnything.com
AFE Pro-Dry S Air Filters

Thanks!

Just ordered a pair for my car. Do you remember how long they took to arrive after ordering from AutoAnything by any chance? Also, does the car feel any stronger with the solid PMAF pipes and the AFE filters in place vs stock?

let us know how they work out..i noticed that theyre 3 ply vs the 4 ply cobb one..both reinforced..

Will do! I figured for $110 I cant go wrong. I'll try to post some close-up pics as well, so people can compare to the Cobb tubes.

Uploaded some pictures. Installation was fairly easy, but i had to take the strut bar off. The hoses do not flex, so it was basically impossible to get the tubes on without removing it. I was able to get the driver's side on initially, but the passenger side was impossible to install without the strut bar removed. I also had to cut about 1/2 inch off the tubing (too long - obviously). Engine seems louder - similar when I had the R2Cs installed.

I think it took 5 business days.

Your going to notice better throttle response and the car seems to breathe better in the low and mid range. The Takeda Intake was the first part I put on the car then HFC, CBE, and AAM Cobb Tune. I noticed the intake temps were high so I took off the Takeda Intake and ran the stock intake for a week before I hacked up the Takeda Tubes to fit the stock box. As soon as I changed the stock tubes with the Takeda I got back the whoosh intake sound, this was with the paper filters. The AFE Filters added a bit more flow and maybe a few HP. The 370z Stock Intake is actually pretty good from the factory but every little bit helps.

Hmm I'm now considering the Cobb tubes as I'd like to keep the stock intakes (running HKS filters). They are claiming 6hp on the HPS tubes too?

Sounds good! I'm going to stick with the AFE dry filters and the solid PMAF pipes, either Cobb or maybe something custom on there. I figure for $115 to $125 it costs for the Cobb pipes, I easily could buy some standard 45 degree aluminum pipes, weld on the connections on the side and have them ceramic coated for a nice shine and heat protection (and a little bling). They will be a bit shorter though as I dont want to cut the airboxes.

End result would hopefully be a bit better throttle response, some blind, bit more engine sound and maybe a few hp. :)

Out of curiosity, are the Takeda pipes 2.75" up to the throttle bodies (I know they reduce near the MAF)? Need to know what size to go with. Thanks!

I will have to check I do think it is 2.75" up to the throttle body. I say this because when I bought the 3" coupler to connect the throttle body to the intake tube it has a bit of room like the coupler is just a little bigger then the throttle body and Takeda Tube.

how about these?

ARC Intake Suction Pipe NISSAN 370Z 40TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION; BASE; NISMO; TOURING 2009 - 2010 3.7 ASPZ34

$580??? lol, ARC is an awesome company but a piece of aluminum pipe with their logo for that much, not on my dime.

yeah it says intake suction pipe (singular)..580 for 1 pipe:confused::rofl2:

Any news? How'd they turn out?

I just received them today. I will install them Thursday and take some pics.

My Cobb tubes are in, took me about 30 minutes. It's not quite as easy as it looks considering they do not flex much, but it was not a terribly hard install. They look good and with the AFE filters the car seems to pull a bit harder up top. No downsides so far for me!

Update:

After a few days of driving, it might just be that the car revs smoother but these seem a bit less torquey than the stock tubes. Not sure if the car is slower or faster really but its just what I noticed.

Anybody else notice this? I might swap the stock tubes back in and see if its any different. Only thing I can think is if the internal diameter is bigger than the car likes or something.

Did you reset your ECU after installing the filters and the tubes? If not you should reset your ECU using the Manual Method below or just unplug your battery for a few minutes and plug it back in. Battery method will reset your trip and radio setting though. But I have not been able to successfully reset the ECU using the Manual Method its not easy.


Manual Method
Here is a quick way to reset your ECU. It is also known to clear codes thrown, and turn off the "Service Engine Soon" Light. It's a little tricky, but works.

1.Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition ON switch and wait 3 seconds.
2.Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds:
1.Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2.Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3.Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4.Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5.Wait about 10 seconds.
6.Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7.Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8.Turn ignition switch to OFF position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

Yep, I reset the ECU and put a good 200 miles on it, did not like how it ran so I just put the stock tubes back on. Seems to run much better now already just cruising around. Cobbs going up for sale..

Up Up Down Down Left Right Left Right A B Select Start

?

Contra! :excited:

what color did you get? man i was reaaaly considering these till you said less tq...

Mine were black. Wasnt necessarily less torque, just less jumpy I guess. I like the quick kick. It seemed to pull a bit harder up top, middle was same, bottom was smoother I guess.

how much would you let them go for? :tiphat:

B-A, not A-B. Come on now...

gooood catch! hahaha

$120 shipped and they are yours. I paid $125 + ship for them.

Not just Contra, every Konami game :tup:

Did you try the tubes with stock OEM filter? Also I think the cobbs are for there ECU updates.I would keep them wait to get full bolt on's and then get the cobb access port.

I can't see tubes taking away from HP :_(