I want to say that we do all of our dyno testing between 183-187 degrees. I will have to confirm that but those are the numbers that come to mind.

In regards to a thermostat. You bring up a good point and one that is usually addressed by Nismo directly. Your local dealership should be able to help you with that.

In between each dyno run you allow the car sufficient time to cool back down to a set point, then begin the next run. You aren't just doing one run after the other which, like you pointed out, would raise the engine temp more and more over each pull. This is the most basic explanation I can offer of dyno testing.

1) Perform your first pull
2) Allow sufficient time to let car return to optimal engine temp ranges.
3) Perform next pull

Sometimes shops who do group dyno sessions will make three quick passes to get off the car as quickly as possible so the next person can get on. Or for an individual who wants a trophy dyno run for their records just to say they have a dyno run. That's OK in that case, however for serious tuning or performance verification, you always a maintain a constant run temperature with proper allotted cool down for consistency.

Each run has to be the same regardless and if your tuning........only change one parameter at a time unless your adding a known tune. Easiest way in the world to get lost is changing too many things at the same time or be sloppy with engine temps.

Not sure about the Nissan timing maps, but some factory ECU software will alter the timing according to water temp. The objective is to eliminate as many extraneous variables as possible or you're wasting time and money.

There is a lot of science and study methodology that is used if you're going to do it right. Some of them good-ol-boy NASCAR mechanics ain't so dumb after all.

I'll call around and look for a 185 thermo. What's stock??

OK so I was right...We do our dyno runs between 183-187 or 185 degrees plus or minus a degree or two haha.

I'll throw the exhaust video up in the main post, but here is a video with stock and the STILLEN exhaust so you can hear the difference (crappy point and shoot camera tho).

Also, this has been released, pricing and information can be found here: STILLEN 370Z Product Page

hey josh are we getting a group buy d/c for this? :)

If there was volume (most GB's we do are in the 15-25 range) I can see what I can do, but we got the official pricing and I was able to get that knocked down as you see it now as an introductory, which normally doesn't happen. I'd like to see some people install these and get the feedback.

YO JOSH.

Lots of pre-market hype, I'm still here, so........ where is the intake that makes 18 hp over the stock intake?? I'd like to do an install and give you some independent dyno feedback that you're begging for.

Being the cats, Y-pipe and high flow filters were just sitting in my garage, pretty quiet on the private e-mails on when the intake was to arrive, lots of noise on the web, and no intake. Installed everything I have and will dyno this week giving independent feedback as to the results. And yes.....it's a whole lot louder. (Surprisingly much louder, but the stock cats are double cats, not single)

Got a bud whom does the racing chassis for LGM's race Vettes who is for sure is the best fabricator I personally know of (Maybe Lou G thinks the same) and he is going to look at the after Y-pipe exhaust to see if he can do some tweaks.( He did a dual 3" exhaust system for my Vette that produces identical dyno power to open headers)

The Immediate rear Y section is pretty whippy before it goes to the dual resonators, but as loud as it became, wonder if the factory maybe didn't wimp it purposely for next year gains? We'll see what he thinks.

Way I look at it. With additional CFM going out the exhaust, the intake with additional flow will only help more over stock. Right?

What say you? Or, are the gains a fuel/air trick?? Being the car dyno's pig rich, any tricks that lean it out will produce more hp, so will tuning software. CFM is.......CFM and lack of inhibits hp. More than you need, does nothing. Learned that the hard way adding a $650.00 1200 cfm TB over a 1,000 cfm TB. The gains were.....Zero on a 575 hp motor.

Removing the filters, keeping the top open for additional airflow produced.......nothing.

Hi Denny!

Good to hear from you. As was posted in all of our posts in this thread, we're in final production, with mid-march being the latest they would be shipping. It's been less than 2 weeks since we last conversed, but I'm sure you'd agree that we won't amount to "lots of noise and no intake".. just give me a little bit of time.

We're excited for you to test the intake... as soon as I have more information, I will keep you guys updated.

The lots of noise just comes from removing and replacing the stock cats. Honestly surprised as to the decibel difference in higher kpa throttle positions. At lighter throttle you can't tell the difference. Acts/Sounds a bit like an exhaust system that uses a valve to bypass a portion of the muffler.

My experience is intake insufficiencies choke the car at higher rpm where addition cfm is necessary. If there is a flow issue on the stock intake, it will show up on the dyno particularly on the top end. Read where another brand of intake is able to fool the MAF, therefore leaning out the car. Being these cars are very rich from the factory, it would show up during the entire powerband and on the wideband 02 readings.

My intent is certainly tuning software as unquestionable there would be gains in setting up proper/fuel air and perhaps some from timing. If the intake gains are from leaning out the motor vs required additional cfm; then for someone like me with intent of ECU tuning, it would be false gains. However, if someone's intent is to just add bolt ons with no tuning....... then it would be a great addition.

Again......dyno's don't lie. We'll see what it says this week.

Did the intakes change the A/F ratio from stock at all?

yes they will

The question is why?
As mentioned, pulling both filters leaving the top open basically did nothing. For sure if the filters were an issue something would have happened. If there was an issue getting enough air into the box removing the top would make something happen also. Why I mentioned probably blew a hundred bucks on the high flow Cosworth filters.
If it ain't broke....don't fix it. So far, I can't find the broken part (intake wise) except the cars are way rich from the factory.

Did read in the March issue of "Modified Mag' pertaining to modifying the 370Z:

"Just for fun, they brought along their G37 POP Chargers, a bolt-on intake system for the dual HR engines. The intake kit is a direct bolt-on with only minor changes to one of the securing brackets. The necked-down intake also tricks the ECU into seeing less airflow and slightly lean out the OEM mixture to make some more power."

No argument leaning the stock 11.3-11.6 Fuel/air will produce gains. Tuning software and dyno tuning with a wideband 02 sensor will get one dead nuts on the money as to what the car likes to produce the most power.

So if I am understanding what you are saying Denny, then perhaps these add on intakes are only helping because they are tricking the ECU into running leaning A/F mixture? So...perhaps a good dyno tune to adjust the A/F would be just as beneficial, maybe even moreso, than a CAI? Do you think a CAI + tune to adjust A/F would be even more beneficial?

I don't have any experience with working on these newer cars, but when I was building small block chevys I certainly didn't use the biggest 4 barrel I could get, in fact putting too big of a carb on would actually hurt horsepower.