failed HFC install
 

Well I went to a shop today to get my HFCs installed and they got all the bolts but one, the driver side top one. Its stripped and they couldnt do anything else so we put it all back together. They said it was too tight an area for them to weld or cut.

So is it too tight to get in there to weld or cut? And if I can weld another bolthead on it still may not come off. They used all the right and best tools so I guess that thing is on tight. Plus Im not about to spend alot for a few hp.

Any suggestions on how to get it off?

can get in there and torch it off or a dremel with metal cut off disk remove the thread part of the stud and then use a nut extractor socket. I agree that one is PITA.

damn dude...that is shitty! When my buddy and I were installing my HFC the one bolt on the drivers side was the harderst to get at as well. After trying a combination of different attachments we decided to take the wheel off and try and get to it that way. It actually worked really well. What I am wondering is if you could get a saw in from that angle??? Did you try taking the wheel off? I know that method isnt mentioned in the DYI on this forum or other online how-to videos I found.

Ill have to find a place that is confident enough to try it. No didnt try with the wheel off, might have to try that with the welding or cutting. bolt is stripped good.

Plus my Cobb is on the way with a map with HFCs included. I guess Ill have to ask for a new tune if I cant get it off.

stripped 2 sockets and broke 1 breaker bar extention trying to get that fu#@ing bolt off, finally worked with a stripped bolt kit I got from sears, I don't know if this will work for ya but good luck, i know one guy on this site had to torch it off

people need to use a high impact swivel and a high impact deep socket so you don't round the nut I used 1/2'' ratchet sockets extentions
http://images47.fotki.com/v1589/phot...SCF0509-vi.jpg

u know, i was thinking about going through the wheel well, but didn't know if there was an opening. thx :tup:

Can't you take of the headers with Cat's attached? And then fix it outside of the car?

:iagree:

I could get that baby right off, happened to mine as well! I used a torch for almost a full minute over and over untill it came loose. :tup:

yeah, me and the OP tried unsuccessfully this past weekend, so they made more progress than we did at the hobby shop, but damn Steve, this was a total downer, i wanted to hear that thing. Did they use any PB breakfree?

Is it just one bolt on the stock cats that make it a PITA? Sorry to hear, try taking a flame to it if you can get in there.

almost like Nissan intentionally did something to prevent that one from coming out

I just looked at the DIY, looks like the first 5 steps take about a half an hour. The 6th step, with the bolts your talking about looks like it takes up the rest of the time.

what u mean? u just heated the bolt up and loosened it? doesn't heat make metal expand?

It's certainly the same bolt that gives everyone trouble. :(

Clark had the same problem with mine, but after removing the intake boxes and rearranging some things, he was able to get enough room to do his magic. Mine may not have been as stuck as yours, however.

I wish you were back in Augusta so you'd have the Performance Center to check out. I'd keep putting something like PB Blaster on it, and try it again next weekend. My buddy had a similar issue, so he just sprayed it every day for a week, and had no issues when he went to remove it.

yea they soaked it good and they used all good quality tools and spent about 2+ hrs trying.

These guys didnt seem to want to try the torch thing so I will find a shop that will do it and see how it goes. But Im nor trying to spend too much for a few HP.

First lots of anti-seize.

Then get a torch in there, heat up the hell out of the metal around the screw to get it to expand and then remove the screw.

Its interesting that shops can "fail" at installing things. Seems like they need to fix your car now for free because they couldnt remove a screw without stripping it.

I thought about that but since they were not sure about the torch thing and all, I was thinking so do I really want them trying stuff they arent comfortable doing. I will probably try another shop and if they cant get it I will just not do the HFCs. Im hoping the Cobb will still net me some good gains without the HFC, and just my CBE and intake filters. Im hoping adjusting the timing and A/F will net me the most.

I had this exact same issue when installing my HFC's. I will be posting an install thread with my thoughts from the past month of having gen 3's, berk HFC, and Stillen CBE. As well as the pics of the stripped bolt. It was a PITA and took over an hour just to remove both HFC's due to those stubborn top bolts. I haven't read the whole thread but i hope you find a solution soon.



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09 PG 370z 6MT Base - Stillen Gen 3's, Berk HFC's and Stillen CBE

thanks, what did u do to get the stripped bolt?

:iagree:

Don't give up brother.... the HFC is worth it!!

Yeah Matt, I had the same issue with mine. It took both guys at Performance to get mine off. Ultimately, it took getting a torch in there and literally melting the bolt to free it up. I got some pics in this thread of it. http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...-cat-bolt.html

Good luck, because I would have never been able to get it out. If the guys at Performance couldnt get it that way, they were going to take the header off.

Yikes! They torched that thing!

And I agree, the HFCs are worth it man! Don't give up!

From Phantom's thread:
http://www.the370z.com/attachments/i...bolt-bolt1.jpg

It took the guys at Forged 3 hours to get my test pipes installed because of that stupid bolt, and the car was still brand new!

I've found so many places where they Gorilla Torqued fasteners on this car..
Either the torque specs are way out of line, or the production torque wrenches are way out of calibration. We just had to replace a short hardline on the rear caliper on Zpirates car while putting stainless lines on due to extreme torque used on the part into the OEM brake line Block...

Use the threaded bolt unfastners to get it off. They are sockets with a swivelled thread that digs into the bolts head and takes them off. I used one on a door bolt once on a mates car that was completely round and it came out first shot....

Also installing my HFC's and exhaust took about 3 hours. (the exhaust was like 25 minutes - that bolt was like 2 hours lol)

My mechanic heated the flange up until it looked cherry red and then the bolt gave away

Thanks guys Im gonna find a shop that is confidnent in doing it and Ill make sure they get a god look at it before they say yea or nay.

And on a side note, I wanted these on really quick cuz my Cobb accessport was on its way but I called them today and they are on back order cuz they have sold their last five units in the past week. I guess bullit and red370 made them some money.

Yea I always use a propane torch to loosen bolts. I first heat the bolt then spray some Liquid Wrench on the exposed surfaces and walk away for a half-hour. As the bolt cools it sucks in the Liquid Wrench into the thread area. When I come back in a half hour the bolt will loosen right out with just minor resistence. Has always worked for me for over 30 years.

I will ask them to try that.

interesting, i'll try that.

Since your bolt is stripped my suggestion might not work as I was speaking to those having stuck bolts that haven't been stripped out.

However a suggestion for stripped bolts...I have at times used a punch and hand-sledge and tapped the stripped bolt inward a bit. Then I tighten up the bolt a bit. This can cause the stripped threads to recut. Then I would perform the "torch and Liquid Wrench" action. Then after the 1/2 hour I could then back out the bolt. This "hammering" trick doesn't always work however. I would say for me the "hammering" trick only worked 50% of the time.

Well Im not usre if the threads are stripped or the bolt head is just rounded out. I will have to check that when I get a shop to put it up on a lift to look at it. Im thinking the bolt never even turned for them.

Oh OK.. I assumed you meant the threads stripped.

I'll be honest man, in all my years, i've never once seen a supposed performance shop just quit altogether, shows a serious lack of professionalism, they didnt even say "well we're going to think of a new strategy, bring it back in tomorrow and we'll give it another go", pisses me off man.

Nope and I really dont want them touching the car again and possibly screwing things up tryin things they arent capable of doing. I will just find a shop that is compfortable with a torch and all and see how things go. But you can bet I wont be recommending them to anyone I know. So for those around the El Paso area do not go to Lunas Performance shop.

Or Evolution Motorsports. Basically one other place with any kind of rep to go to, its called "Imirj Auto" give them a call, pronounced "emerge".

That just sucks balls, did they charge you for their **** up? cause basically they could not complete the task they were hired for.. makes me sick

Im not happy today! , I got crawled past today by a Mustang GT with full bolt ons. sob

sounds like you need some G3's, CBE, and a tune! Is yours an auto or 6mt?