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Still expecting some of the usual 'unforseen' delays along the way tho', but hopefully I will be able to get it to the track before the season closes. I'll post when it's all finished. No e85 in this area consistently so it will be tuned for 93. Hope you are having fun with yours !!! |
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Bobby's bracket mounted the V-7 lower so that it would have less flex and also have sufficient clearance ... and he did configure the car with Gates green stripe serpentine belts and did not go cogged. Again, he felt his prototype configuration wasn't perfected and he wasn't going to sell something he wasn't sure of. So it wasn't an option and with no set date as to when it would be available he recommended the V-2 Ti that would fit right in to my existing set up. Keep in mind I've had the stock motor blow after the V-3 Si impeller upgrade plus a 'few' other performance upgrades to keep up - at a sizable cost and with no return. So at this point I'm happy here to get my car back together and running reliably with a reasonable power increase. I want to get back on the horse, but need to cut my losses as well. The more you push these cars - the more they require attention and maintenance - and the easier they can break... Though I do plan to take it to the drag strip, Stillen put it this way; "the 370z wasn't designed to be a race car", and quite frankly, it's been digging it's heels in and making it a difficult project! Hopefully it will all come together and I will be in the mid 11's before Christmas. Great talking with you :tiphat: |
So u upgraded the v3 saw no returns except a blown motor, and the plan now is to build the motor and try upgading the v3 again to solve it? Einstien once had a famous quote about that lol best of luck tho it sucks having your car down for extended periods of time.
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Does anyone ring/groove these Nissan motors to prep for FI?
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TI trim = 1400 CFM - 950 hp - fits, 0.25" larger inlet (hope to stretch Stillens odd intake boot and reuse. SI trim = 1150 CFM - 775 hp - fits with no mods SCI trim = 1050 CFM - 725 hp - comes with kit I know you already know all of this based on your posts. But why do you recommend skipping the Ti trim? It seems like a perfect fit for a built motor Stillen Kit. It should be able to support 700 whp if you can get the Stillen framework to keep up. That is overkill for a streetcar. The fitment unknowns and cost of fitting a YSi don't seem to make sense to me. Is there a part of this equation I am overlooking? |
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Got an extra 65 whp + a flat 378 tqe curve from the V-3Si, 1000 injectors, fuel pump and Tune. (there was plenty more to the build) That would have put me in the high 11's. But the motor blew on deceleration the first pass. Jury is still out as to the exact cause of the grenade. Back to the drawing board ... I've done as much homework as humanly possible regarding this ... there aren't a whole lot of 370's out there that are seriously drag racing...so there isn't much of a pool of experiential knowledge to draw on. I'm NOT upgrading the V-3, but stepping up to the V-2Ti ... and it's performance specs meet my realistic goals...understood ? Though I am not sure of the reference to Einstein here, except in the context of blindly continuing a repeated task and in hopes of obtaining a different result - which is one of the definitions of insane thinking or reasoning. I will assure you that this is not the case here. If you can supply a complete plan with parts and part numbers of all that is required that will allow me to install a V-7 in my car that will give more usable power, be reliable, and won't overpower the cars ability to keep it hooked up, maybe then we can talk more ... I think tho' that we've both stated our cases here and perhaps should continue this discussion back channel for now just to keep on topic ... |
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I had almost identical results with the Si and cogs (34T/30T) on my HR. Mine was making 450hp/375tq on a mustang dyno. It made 15 psi by 6700 RPMs and held 15 psi (belt slip) to redline. It broke a rod shortly after on the dyno. After building the motor, my next step was to either try to run a 34T/28T cog setup, or swap to the Ti trim. Then experiment with IAT sensor in Intake manifold, move MAFs, cut core support and install a larger filter as close as possible to the inlet. |
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1Slow's point here is that these specs are overly enthusiastic ... Much like the factory stock rating of 332 BHP is really more like 280(?)whp ... The 280(?)whp being the more realistic when it comes to actual performance. That being said, the Ti trim being rated at up 950 hp - actually is about 750 whp. Still good enuff for me ... plus it will bolt right in with only having to enlarge the input piping. Offer still stands to 1Slow' - would be willing to upgrade to the V-7 if it makes sense ... and I am willing to stand corrected. |
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Exactly the horsepower numbers on vortechs site are overated badly hoping the ti gets you the power or KNOWING the v7 can do it easily when pullied down is a gamble i wouldnt want to make you want to spend 2000 to find out you may need to do it again?
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That's where Tubo's have the advantage in efficiency. According to Bobby at CINmotorsport, bottom line with all factors being considered, the T-2Ti's are good for that 600-700 hp number, so, at least on paper, I'm good to go. I'd be happy with anything close to 600 for now. Time will tell. Just need to keep the belts on the pulleys @ 15-16 psi. Thanks for turning me on to the blower bracket brace you had made by Jtrans. I really appreciate all of this input - and now I'm really really hoping I've made the right decision! Who knows, I may have to upgrade again if 600 doesn't quite do it....:) |
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Starting from scratch, I've had to filter through a lot of information and advice...double checking it all again and again. It's been a year now since first deciding to upgrade the stock Stillen kit. Seemed a simple 2 week project initially, but has now grown in to an enormous undertaking. It WILL be nice to drive the car again tho' !!! |
So had my kit on now for a few months, next lot of upgrades are in the works; this will be done in the next 3-6 months.
stock clutch is getting smelly! so not driving it too hard lately, just the odd run here and there, waiting on my new clutch kit to arrive (probably 4-5 weeks cause of xmas/new years), getting a southbend stage 3 daily kit with the lighter flywheel etc. Will get this in, have tune double checked at another shop recently recommended to me, A/F ratios atm look a bit high, but it's safe so it's fine at the moment. While clutch is going in or soon after, I'm waiting on some pricing back from the Australian vortech distributor who does all the work here to upgrade the impeller on the unit + changing to a slightly smaller pulley again from the 9lb stillen kit, upgrading fuel system to E85 with a CJ Motorsports kit and get it re-tuned for the E85 all at the same time. will let you guys know when done :) |
So you are going higher boost than the 9lb pulley and the impeller upgrade? You are aware this has ended in some blown motors? I'm interested to see this tried and hope it works for you.
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yeah, no one was running E85 though, were any of the blown guys running the frozenboost heat exchanger upgrade as well?
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BE VERY CAREFUL ENTERING THIS ZONE. UNLESS YOU GOT UPGRADED SHORT BLOCK, YOU ARE GOING TO BLOW UP YOUR MOTOR WITHIN DAYS. I ran 12.5 PSI on my stillen SC (UPGRADED COG, BLADES, pulleys, fuel pump) and my motor gave out after about a week. Also ask ANMVQ, his engine in his g37 lasted three days after he did what you are planning on doing. My advise to you is unless you have a built bottom end, stay away from this idea all together. Plz plz do your research before upgrading anything on that kit dude. If you want more power, get a twin turbo and run it on the stock engine at around 10psi, you will get more power than a SC and you wont blow up your motor. I have a built bottom end now and wish I went with a TT setup. |
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I hadn't, An we spoke about that during my build also, I spoke to Sasha about that same thing.
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How is the ecu supposed to accurately add fuel when it only has a maf reading before the air is compressed, heated and then ran through the intercooler? It's no surprise they go "Boom" when you raise the boost.
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I don't have a built bottom end,
did you guys get anywhere with the MAF locations? any knowledge would help. |
I didnt get a chance to move mine :/
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Really interested here ... My built motor is back here in New Jersey and it's almost ready to go back in the car ... I like your thinking here, and would really appreciate your input as far as relocating the MAF's. I want to feel confident in that I've done everything I can properly do to the motor to prevent another disaster. Certainly don't want to blow it up again 'fer sure. Need to know soon :tiphat: Thanks ! |
Hey guys now you got me thinking!! I have the frozen boost on mine and my intake plenum temps are 47 degrees. It was 45 degrees today in texas the car was running really good it seem. Is that ok? Are you guys saying that you blew your engine with frozen boost? I'm confused..
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clkio was still running standard stillen heat exchanger when motor popped. They are talking about moving the MAF's which are currently before the supercharger to a better location as the temp probably changes between where it's measured and where the air ends up entering the engine. Not sure where the best location would be though. Anyone ran a water/meth kit also? |
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HBR performance built VQ37VHR Bore 3.7805 Stroke 3.460 Wiseco k643m96 dished 8.5:1 Pistons, Wiseco 9600 XS Rings, K1 Billet 4340 Steel H Beam connecting rods. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps485ccc00.jpg |
When I spoke to Chuck and Sasha on this the best place we talked about would be "after the SC" but there is no way to do that because Stillen goes to one intake pipe then splits at the TB's, You have to custom make in intake and there is no room for equal length pipes :/.. Unless you took off their mani and went with a ported stock one (Z1-M370) Idea tho :), you could probably make more power with 2 3inch pipes instead of the one Stillen intake pipe.
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We talked about that also, EVOHUNTER is his screen name I thought at one time he was working with Sasha on building one, Don't remember what happened with it :/
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Looks like you used to have woofers and now you have drywall... :-) I will be installing the AquaMist water/meth injection. I have the 9.5 CR Carillo pistons and rods - race bearings and ARP bolts. Will be posting all of the particulars once the build is satisfactory completed. |
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Trying to figure this all out in my head (a very dangerous place to be I might add) The Stillen charge tube splits at the throttle bodies ... and the difference in length between the 2 isn't all that much...shouldn't have that much affect ? And I'm not exactly sure where the IAT is measured ... at the Stillen manifold ? Anybody know for sure ??? Stillen are you there ??? Help ??? :tiphat: |
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I thought so - but thinking about this too much introduced some doubts in my mind - So ... moving the MAF's to the charge tube after the SC'r (if possible) still wouldn't fix it all since the air still hasn't passed thru the Intercooler ? Is this correct ? aaarrrggghhh - another dilemna I think I may have cross coupled the AquaMist instructions in here as well. |
Correct, the maf should be after the compressor and intercooler if we want the ecu to have an accurate reading.
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