Day 3;

thought I'd throw up a few pictures as well (they have been added to my album), got a fair bit done today. Came up with a really good solution for everyone upgrading to the frozenboost heat exchanger, this involves the lower part of the crash bar frame (not the main beam) and using the arms as brackets so the heat exchanger sits back far enough so you don't have to cut up the front bar + don't have to cut up the crash bar itself. It's a combination between Vlad and Ivo's installs. Measured the heat exchanger to need to sit around 20-25mm behind being flush with the crash beam. You'll still need to remove the standard drain plug and find something to block the hole, I'll be trying to find a Hex key bolt like the one already on the unit in another place, and also cut out a whole in the plastic which screws to the front bar so I can drain the fluid when needed, just like you would with the engine's radiator. I'll label the pictures as Frozenboost so you get the idea, any questions just ask.

managed to mount the blower along with the water pump/water reservoir/overflow bottle/plumbing for it and put the new belt on, test fit the intakes to make sure they don't interfere with the heat exchanger positioning. I did have to move the horns, on the Aus models we have a High and Low horn, one is on either side of the front, I've had to move the one from the right (looking at the front of the car) to the left hand side, just used the same bracket as the existing one and put them both onto it. Also tidied up some of the cabling etc in the engine bay, it was starting to get all over the place, so removed some mounts, moved some cables under/over things and redone the mounts.

Tomorrow will be heading out first of all to get the water plugs/hex key for drain of the heat exchanger and getting distilled water (already have the MoCool) along with new genuine nissan coolant for engine (as I had to drain it even after being told multiple times would not!)

up to page 22 of 37 for tomorrows start after finishing off the cooler stuff, there's not many parts left over now, mainly some wiring to do and some more plumbing, STILL waiting on my tune file.... will be ringing vivid again tonight to try get it, also contacted my tuner and they are seeing if they have anything available from previous stillen installs.

I'm not 100% sure with the stillen SC kit, but I know with other kits you can potentially drive on the stock tune for a short distance if you need to, to get to your tuner. Just keep it under 3k rpm and out of boost and be cautious, basically keeping the system thinking all is the same. How far is your tuner? Another option might be to tow the car.

Hmm,

so you think it would be safe if I don't get a tune in time just to start it/check for leaks and not drive it, I'm happy to get a tow if needed and I've advised them I may need one and they can organise it all for me. I was just worried cause we have changed fuel pump/injectors/spark plugs/maf sensor positions etc.. never really changed this much before and used a standard cars tune, I know they are a lot better these days with making adjustments.

tuner is about 50km (31-32miles) away, mostly highway driving as well, so would just be sitting in 6th around 2000-2500rpm. I could definitely shift under 3k rpm if needed, it's not gunna stall on me? lol

I will have to check with others, because more so on how the stillen moves a few items versus other setups. I know some have started up on a stock tune to check for leaks while waiting and it was ok.

Double Check with Stillen just to make sure ...

Stillen will flat out say not to do it obviously to cover themselves, even to get the 9lb pulley you have to sign a waiver and in the description it says using this pulley with stock tune or stock stillen tune could result in catastrophic engine failure without getting a custom tune, I mean of course it will if you are red lining the thing with a not designed tune for the increased boost.

after people who have done so if possible ;)

I use the coil-pack boot to remove and start old/new plugs, works like a champ. ;)

Well your right about they'll say no, Right in the instructions is say in red bold letters , DO NOT START without the tune. Heck I couldn't start mine ON their tune, car would flood out. :/ I have to had it sent back and forth for 3 days to get it right then custom tuned it anyways, Why not just flat bed it to your tuner and let them do it. I'm sure he'll have a base tune to work off on his laptop, mine did.

yeah leaning towards this, wow that's really bad you couldn't even get your car started!

mainly just wanted to start it to make sure there are no leaks, would feel so bad if I got it to the tuner and there was a leak somewhere and they had to fix my work..

We don't ever start the cars here at STILLEN without a tune. Because of the bigger injectors and the voltage change in signals you would run lean at higher rpm but should be very rich at idle. You might be okay with just turning it on and letting it idle but I can't say for sure and would personally not risk it.

fair enough, cheers for the reply, I'm waiting on my stillen tune from the vendor I purchased through, will the standard tune be right to drive to a tuner with the 9lb pulley on? obviously will be shifting low RPM and slow acceleration for low load..

Are you talking about the STILLEN Supercharger tune for the 8lb on a SC with the 9lb pulley? If so it should be fine. If you have the international base tune then I would just go really easy on it. The 9lb pulley builds boost by 2500 rpm and the base tune is really just designed to start the car and give a tuner something to work off of. It should be okay to drive for a short distance but it will be sluggish obviously.

yeah currently waiting on the international base tune, not sure what the hold up is :S assumed it was readily available.

yeah definitely would take it really easy, majority of the trip 50km (31-32 miles) is highway driving so could cruise along at slightly less than highway speeds around 2k RPM.

BTW: I think it's great that you assist here!
And the questions clarified. :tup:

Always glad to help when possible :)

Hey Mark,

just went to send you a PM, and it's saying your mailbox is full, I'll try again soon, just sending my email address through.

Cheers!

Hey guys,

does anyone have a print-out of the 370z fuse box wiring diagram? mines got different coloured wires in different positions then where it says in the stillen manual.........

Do you have a Multi-Meter? All you need to do is find a wiring coming out of the fuse box that is at 12v when the car is in ACC mode and 0V when the car is off. This activates the relay to allow the voltage from the battery connection to flow and run the water pump for the IC when the car is on.

if per Stillen below all you are looking for is switched 12v power just tap into either cigarette lighter locations. I did mine with an add a fuse. both are located in the kick panel left of the clutch/brake pedal.

Ended up finding it thanks mate,

just in the manual it shows a yellow wire, and there are 2 yellow wires in there on my car, yet they are in different positions, ended up using the same position wire which was a green one, it had power when in ON position (not car started, just ON, as if hitting power button twice without foot on clutch) not ACC, didn't want the pump running on ACC if I'm working on car in garage and have radio on/waiting in a car park with radio on.

the only other thing which was a bit weird was the purge valve, in the manual it shows the manifold without the hose fitting between the 2 throttle bodies, I had 1 hose which was left over which runs with the fuel line and has a little grey filter looking thing on it (I'll upload it to my profile), I've connected this to the purge valve on one of the T piece-ends and connected a hose from the other T piece-end to the middle hose connection on the manifold, hope this is correct, in the manual it shows just 1 connection from the purge valve, all the other hoses in my engine bay are allocated, this was the only one left over and thought it went here, can anyone clarify to make sure I haven't done something wrong?

will be complete tomorrow and starting it up, just need to install the charge pipe now and load the map!

still have a few pieces to tidy up and test fit the front bar etc.. so will still be a full day, my tunes booked for Monday, excited!

this is the piece I'm talking about - Nissan 370Z Forum - mikey1600's Album: My 370z + upgrades - Picture

found a picture on a stock motor, one end goes into the purge valve, then a small hose goes from the other end of the purge valve into the standard manifold, so the way I've set it up should be fine :)

Hey guys, need a quick question answered, I've posted the question here - http://www.the370z.com/tuning/93558-...via-uprev.html

all loaded, starts first time perfectly, no leaks etc.. going for quick drive around block soon, modifying front bar to fit..

Congrats dont have too much fun till you get her to your tuner! :driving:

Good Work Dude !!!

haha no way mate, just drove down the servo to get some fuel, kept it under 3000rpm, very hard to do! lol

Congrats on getting her finished Mikey! Let us know how the tuning goes!

Congratulations! When does it get tuned?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! will do :)

getting tuned tomorrow (in about 14 hours!) going to be hard getting to sleep tonight, very excited!

Well all in all it's been very hard not driving the car since initial test drive (and keeping it around 2500-3000rpm max while on the 1 test drive!)

off to get tuned tomorrow then going to have some fun :D

thanks to everyone in this thread who have given me any info, really appreciate it guys! if anyone else has a stillen kit coming more than happy to receive any PM's with questions, will be happy to help and answer anything I can.

shout-out to Vivid racing for quick responses regarding ordering and even getting the kit to me cheaper, Vlad and Swiss for answering PM's and giving advice on the kit, Mark from Stillen here in the thread for stepping up and getting the base tune file sent to me after I had some issues.

I could definitely add a lot more to the stillen manual/supplemental stillen install instructions but didn't really bother with many pictures/DIY thread, most of it is fairly common sense but more pictures would definitely help.

It's definitely been a learning experience, stressful, fun, annoying at times, I am glad we did this at home in my garage though as it will help me out in future troubleshooting any problems with the kit.

so thank-you everyone!

Once it's tuned you will love it, mine is a blast.

:iagree:

Since 3 Years and again today in the best weather in our Swiss- Mountains :driving:

Doing it yourself is always the best thing to do. Not just to know the ins and outs of the items being added but to create that bond with your car that I wish everyone understood.

Watch out for this?
the core is not dented its water pooring out as I had it hooked to the hose.
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/r..._231044036.jpg

Yes, watch out for this. If you use no Anti-Freeze in your IC and it gets below freezing temperatures where you live it could cause this type of damage. Please follow the installation instructions and pay attention to what conditions call for what. In warmer climates such as Southern California, Florida, Texas, etc...water and water wetter will be fine. If you live in colder climates (northern US/Canada) this could cause ice to form in the IC core or heat exchanger which can cause leaks.

http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6329ad2b.jpg

yup, only used the Motul Mocool + demineralized water here, never going to freeze where I live.

Glad to hear it. We are looking forward to seeing your tuning results :)

okay guys, just uploaded my images to Imgur, bare with me!

So vvel parameters weren't available for my car, something has been sent off to UpRev so this can be done as well, so should expect some more from 5000rpm onwards. how are the A/F ratios looking? it's fairly rich driving it fair bit of unburnt fuel smoking out when into it a lot.

KW and Boost
http://i.imgur.com/wyyJ4d4.jpg

KW vs NA car (had similar mods as mine, just high flow cats + cat back exhaust) on another dyno here I pulled 196KW, so this is obviously way low, kinda sucks cause numbers are low, but it pulls hard and more tuning to do!
http://i.imgur.com/qKFwLZP.jpg

KW and Torque
http://i.imgur.com/K2KJUdm.jpg

KW and A/F
http://i.imgur.com/YzPoh1m.jpg

vlads dyno
 

my dyno results

red stillen heat exchanger

blue re tune with frozen boost heat exchange

no vvel done

my tune is conservative