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Seriously, how the hell are you guys seeing so much boost? I have the 9lb pulley and im only seeing 7.2psi boost and we have zero boost leaks...
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Are all boost readers equal?
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When the temps heat up or heatsoak, detonation plus the location of the MAF sensors = no good. Either run higher octane than when you dyno'd to prevent detonation or keep it out of WOT during hot conditions. |
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AFR target was tuned for 14.7 as per Vortech specs ... AFR guage showed more towards 14.4 at idle ... Track temp was 55 degrees ... car was tuned on and for 93 octane. MAF sensors were upgraded but still in the same location as the initial Stillen install. Wasn't able to get a clear answer as to the MAF sensor tube size (uh-oh) ... was experiencing some cold start hiccups and some throttle hunting attributed to the 1000 lph injectors, but was assured the car was good to go and these were only 'minor' glitches and would be tweaked out. Too late now ... not happy, but planned to do the internals next year when the wallet recovered. The motor is now at Import Parts Pro (Kyle Puckett) Kyle is extremely pleasant, super helpful, and a 1/4 mile racer himself. Planning on taking advantage of the premature re-build to eek out some more performance. Hopefully will get to get'r back to the track this fall ... |
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The motor is now at Import Parts Pro in Texas (Kyle Puckett) Have had some very informative and pleasant conversations & emails with him. Going with their Stage 2 Long Block and the 9:1 Wiseco pistons ... will probably max out the Vortech V3 with the upgraded impeller for now. Might need to upgrade to the V7 later. Most supporting work is done - just waiting on the motor. |
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I did try to express my concerns about the 9 lb pulley ... |
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My car is now sitting in my driveway with it's intestines strewn about the interior. With a 5 week wait for the motor to make it's way back to NJ ... the shop elected to flat bed it back to me to conserve shop space until the motor gets back from Texas ... I sure hope it doesn't develop a southern drawl down there in Texas ... :rofl2: |
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With the lower compression it will allow me more boost and more hp at the top. With the built motor I can go up to 15~16 psi with the 9:1 CR. The down side is losing some at the bottom...but then again, that might allow me to leave at a higher rpm. Without having done this though, it is a guessing game. Thought of the 10:1 CP's as well, but that extra potential 50+hp with the 9:1's was just too tempting. My Stillen SC'r has been upgraded to SI trim which ups the max boost to 22 psi and 1050cfm. Vortech has a series of pulleys that will allow me to find the right one. Hope the V3 SI will be up to the task. If not then I'll have to go for the V7. I'm still open for suggestions and input ... the pistons aren't in the motor just yet. Any and all info welcome here... Thanks, |
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How does it run ? |
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Went back and read the thread again ... somehow I got the idea that you were upgrading the impeller as well. Hope I didn't steer the thread off topic too much. I was real happy with my Stillen SC'r and drove the car daily for 3 years (even thru the winters here in NJ). Tracked it a few times too. Now I'm intersted in getting it in to the mid 11's. Have a great time with yours ! |
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I'll be going e85 eventually, have 3 stations ranging from 5-15 mins from my home, it is my daily but having stations that close and the 370z tank is quite big shouldn't be a problem really. |
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Do not confuse the Vortech head units limitations with the Stillen kits limitations. They are two very different things. The Stillen kit is limited by its Pre-S/C intake size/configuration, MAF location and IAT sensor location, charge pipe design, and bracket flex/belt slip. The Stillen kit is very good at what it does off-the-shelf. But it is not very good for upgrading. You have already maxed the kit out, or you are very close. If you want to keep it and enjoy it, do not chase big power. Build your motor to maximize the air your kit is currently moving. Lowering your CR is not a good way to do that (talk to a few "Stillen S/C" experienced shops). Keep the kit you have already bought and enjoy, keep a CR that is close to stock, upgrade the rods, and get an experienced tuner. I am in no way telling you what to do, but I've been down this road. And I've seen a few others too. Lowering the CR (on this kit) is just losing power and gaining nothing. I was getting belt-slip at around 15-16 psi over spinning the blower at 56K rpms with the SI impeller. Look at the amount of belt wrap this kit is designed with on the serp pulley and compare it to other superchargers pushing big psi. Look at the size of the intake going thru the core support compared to other supercharger designs. Look at the MAF/IAT placement compared to other designs. You have probably already made all of the power you will ever make out of the Stillen kit. The bad part is, now you are going to have a built motor that is capable of much much more. It sounds all too familiar. I don't want to be the pushy internet guy, so this is the last time I'll say this unless asked. Apologize for getting off-topic. |
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Tho' it has served me well, I might have outgrown the Stillen ... Want to stick with Supercharger rather than switch over to Turbo... I'm an open book now that I'm forced to build the motor ... what would you recommend ??? Found a post here about CiN with the V7 (kit?) ... have the link on my home computer ..l will send that off to you tonight. Don't want to get off topic here too much unless everybody is OK with it. Thanks Thanks |
perfectly fine with it, it's still about the supercharger afterall ;)
post up the details here for all to see! |
Customs Delay at the moment :( hoping it still makes it here on Friday (scheduled day according to tracking that it was going to be delivered), about to ring Ralph again from Vivid, he's going to try help me out.
here's to hoping! I've got my tune pencil'd/booked in for Monday and not sure when they can do it again if I can't make then.. |
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:-) OK to stop chewing your fingernails !!! Glad you are excited ... You will be happy with your new found power ... No more flat spot in 3rd gear...hang on to your hat !!! (and be careful hard shifting into 3rd - it can go sideways just when you least expect it) My best pass with the stock Stillen was 12.4 @ 116 with a 2.0 60' - not too shabby. The only thing that failed on me in 30,000+ miles with the kit was the smallest of the idler pulleys...shook itself into severe wobble after about 15K miles. Replace the SC'r oil on schedule and keep an eye on the hood for belt spray and you will be good to go! |
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http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...arger-kit.html Good ??? Bad ??? So So ??? Thoughts ??? I've got a call in to them and am awaiting a response ... |
looks good!
I'm assuming you are looking to use the existing stillen hardware but just upgrading the blower? if you upgraded the blower, what about the charge piping/maf's etc.? |
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Should be and (hoping) it is a complete kit ... If it is and has been tested it might be the way to go for me. Just might end up putting the Stillen on my G37! |
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I had a little over 30,000 miles on it before deciding to upgrade the boost, fuel and tune on the stock block. Spent a ton of money to gain 63 whp - only to grenade the motor :drama: Back to the drawing board for me ... |
my motor blow with the stillen kit with the 9lb pulley
only had 37k on the stock motor 33k when i added the stillen |
Mine only went 7k :(
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damn kit isn't rock up until Monday now!! grrrr
my heat exchanger from frozenboost rocked up today though, so still going to pull the car apart over the weekend and prepare for Monday. Will take front bar off tonight, have a look at what I need to do so the bar goes over the heat exchanger (hoping nothing), and take all the crap out of the boot to get ready for fuel pump. Does anyone have the stillen install instructions in a PDF format? (or just any sort of advice what has to come out of the car and not go back in, fairly sure intakes etc.. obviously just from looking at pictures, but any other parts) will do most the tear down over the weekend.. Cheers! |
You can get the install instruction on the web, and your front bar you'll turn it upside down and reinstall it. Swiss370Z did that with his :)
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So far just some basic stuff; Took front bar off using this DIY - http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...r-removal.html it was all good, except here in Aus we also have the headlight washers as well, so there was the headlight washer's I had to disconnect along with a hose for them that runs underneath the car (looking at the front of the car, easiest to disconnect the right one first, as it sits lower than the left hand side one making it easier to drain the fluid from here). There were 3 other brackets had to disconnect from the front bar as well, not sure what they are for exactly. I'd just had my service done on Monday, so my washer bottle was full, causing lots of water to come out when we disconnected the hoses haha, got a couple containers to drain the washer fluid out. Also took off intakes/engine cover/strut bar for now. 11PM here, time to down some beers! |
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So far after 1 day, I can say my understanding of "bolt on" and stillen's is obviously a lot different lol, there's quite a lot of little customisation you need to do with the fuel pump/cutting body pieces/bending water lines (again was told would not have to drop coolant from the vehicle, this is definitely not the case, ended up just draining all the coolant to stop it from pouring out and spilling everywhere when needing to bend a water pipe/cut the hose shorter as outlined in the manual. So my service I got done last week, will need to get more coolant to fill-up once finished.
have installed the new fuel pump (this should really be offered as a complete drop in unit, the stuffing around you have to do to install the new fuel pump is beyond a joke). Of course once you do 1, the next ones would be easy, but for 1 off installs, there should be an option to purchase the pump/housing as a complete kit to drop in. have got up to releasing the tension from the belt, couldn't get a socket onto it, may have to remove the fans to get to it properly, will have another look in the morning. so up to page 12 of 37 in the manual. There is a lot of vague instruction which almost explains things as if you have done them before, some parts are really good and illustrate with specific pictures, other parts are rather poor with instruction. Getting there! |
Installing stillen supercharger
HEY MIKEY
THIS LINK MAY HELP YOU FILL IN SOME OF THE BLANKS IN THE MANUAL http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ercharger.html |
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So day 2 down, finishing earlier today.
now up to page 17 of 37 for tomorrows start. had to head out and buy a 3/8 breaker bar for the belt tensioner, couldn't get just the bar anywhere so bought a deep drive 3/8 socket set with the bar in it, I'll use the deep sockets on other stuff so no biggie. lots of fiddling with bits and pieces today, probably the most pain in the *** thing was getting the 3 bolts underneath the new manifold tightened along with having to cut/re-solder 6 wires at each end for the throttle body extension (labelled as a harness in the manual, just 6 wires lol). they should really make this into an adapter clip, for the money you pay for the kit, really didn't expect to be doing things like that. Again lots of bending of pipes/brackets and cutting. you are told twice in the manual to bend the fuel line which is bolted to the front of the engine which goes to the fuel rails. the first bend it tells you to do shows the bent fuel sender at one angle, then later on it tells you to bend it again so you can get the front throttle body plug in, and another picture shows it at a completely different angle.. lol spent some time also looking at the crash bar for mounting the frozen boost heat exchanger, will do the 180 on the crash bar and will probably end up making a bracket that bolts into the crash bar then to the heat exchanger so I don't have to do much cutting of the front bar, I've had a look at Vlad's and Ivo's way they have done it and will be a combination of both without cutting the crash bar/minimising cutting up the front bar. installed new spark plugs as well while doing the injectors, went with HKS for those. the standard spark plugs are different from other normal ones I've seen before, they were a different size so a spark plug socket wouldn't work, so we just used a normal socket to loosen them off and once they were unscrewed, used a magnetic light thing I have to pull them out, not sure what everyone else used here, but I would have been off buying more stuff if it wasn't for the magnetic light thing I have. another thing not really indicated in the manual is the steps of doing things, a lot of time is wasted with having to undo parts you have already completed in order to make it easier or even fit some other parts on. whoever wrote the manual must have installed many kits beforehand and it's just in their head as the normal install. It's been fun and frustrating at the same time, but can't wait for it to be finished! Tomorrow we are onto mounting the supercharger and running more lines. |
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