Thanks. Updated my posts to say pink instead of purple.

For everybody's general information..

Below sketch explains why intercepting the Pink wire at T122 is better than pulling Fuse No. 7. I traced back what else gets deactivated by pulling the fuse. As we can see, it both disables the rear brake lights and signalling the ABS actuator control unit.
I found out the other end of the pink wire terminates at terminal 3B of connector M2 of the driver side Fuse Box. I find this very helpful because it's much easier to intercept the pink wire at Connector M2 than on connector M107 of the ECM. All I needed was 30cm of 2-core wire running to a switch that I conveniently placed on the trim panel underneath the steering column.
http://www.prelude.myzen.co.uk/370Z/bin/Burnout.jpg

Sorry to revive an old thread but im trying to find some answers to this. I have intercepted the pink wire in the front most connector to the ECU (furthest away from firewall) and upon hitting the brake I see 12v on one side and nothing on the other side so I feel its the correct wire but disconnected I still get throttle cut during brake + gas... any ideas?

I soldered and heat shrunk the wires and the electrical tape is temporary until I bundle and reinstall glove box)


http://s33.postimg.org/e2y0ptj7z/201...16_resized.jpg

That is strange!

Anyone else with a 2014 able to comment on if this no longer works on this model year? We can see from V1H post that it still works on a 2013, but its entirely possible Nissan changed something for 2014.

That would be a bummer m8
To be fair I'm not really using brake boosting at all; could do w/o it, too.



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I just feel like it would be an asset to have and to warm tires at the track. It really seems like 2014 has a change because I promise my cut is still present.

On a side not does this look like the correct rpm wave source for my aem Uego failsafe?

http://s33.postimg.org/5ynsoba4v/201...52_resized.jpg

Just did this awesome hack on my 09 TT nismo and it definitely works! Brake boosting is a game changer. But did anyone have issues with the windows not going up automatically anymore? They'll roll down automatically but not up. Tried resetting the windows a bunch of times, no luck. Any suggestions?

Thats gonna be an unrelated issue! Sometimes its a hassle to get them to reset. Its been a really long time since I did it, but dont you have to set them at the top, and at the bottom?

I reset them at the top and bottom, heard the clicks, reset with the switch on and off, nothing. I tried just about every variation of window resetting here on the forum. The switch went in Friday night and I thought by today I might be able to reset. It probably is unrelated but I never had this problem before the switch went in so figured I'd ask. I'll disconnect the battery again tonight and keep trying.

This will work for waterbox burnouts at the track right? To be able to do something get like this?

Yup works great for burnouts

Awesome...finally a solution

Just discovered that u can avoid all the re-wirings and fusepulling with EcuTek's software which allows u (via tuner) to Hijack the Throttle. Here's a vid of the Throttle Hijack enabled. Thnx to Seb @ Specialty Z.

Just tried this on a 2016 370z Nismo and can confirm it no longer works. Yes used the right wire and yes Traction control was off.
Has anyone found a work around for new 370s?

If anyone can post a 2016 service manual i will see if I can figure out why it no longer works. I am assuming they are no longer getting the brake switch signal straight from the switch now... its probably trickling in through the CAN now or something.