It's official, you suck. :rofl2:

Got it thxs for the education man.
so an example would be:
Aggressive tune with race gas = less boost but more power
Vs conservative tune 93 gas=more boost to make same power

I guess I would just be better off just getting a good 93 tune
And see if I can squeeze the 600 mark out on water - meth for the track

As I am now having bad wheel hop problems and need to divert my money away from the motor and to suspensions work

If it makes you feel any better, between buying and selling the dyno, I probably lost around $20,000.... if you divide that out between how many times I have used it on my personal cars... its probably about $4000 each use :)

But how many customer cars did you charge to tune? And I'd assume you got to write off the purchase of the dyno and depreciate it down. And, that one last little thing- you had your own dyno. :rofl2:

Trust me... that dyno was the dumbest thing I ever purchased! Then again, if I got it for the price that the guy I sold it to did, I would buy it again in a heartbeat.

Its sort of like an AMG or M car... if you arent a millionaire, youre unwise to purchase new instead of 1-2 years old.

Phunk,

If the CJM fuel starvation kit you sell is installed does that rectify the OP's issue? Just wondering if your kit would be considered an acceptable upgrade for a future FI installation and have the benifit of solving the starvation problem while still in NA form.

Not sure about the highest #s but I made 576whp @10PSI on 100 octane. 340lph fuel pump, 650cc injectors.

My car is the 632hp@13psi Fast Intentions e85 car(one of them). Of course when going e85 at those numbers, fuel system is everything, bar none.

Return style at 600hp on gasoline is more of a safety net than a necessity. Just remember, no matter what type of fuel you run, the more power, the more fuel. The more fuel you flow, the greater the chance any variable can cause damage.

Think of it this way. A speed bump at 25mph is tolerable, now at 75mph...you are eating ****. The more fuel you flow, the more impact a pressure drop can have on your system(and things like fuel starvation).

If anything, I would run something as simple as a CJM stage 0, which is easy to put in and gives you that extra layer of security. I have the full CJM system overhaul.....zero problems, I can DD my car(have done so in traffic/45mile commute) with absolutely no mileage or drivability issues.

If you go meth, I've been really happy with this tank I got. Definitely recommend as it's large enough that I don't have to refill it often. It's only been filled twice since I got it installed, partly because the weather was cold enough to permit not using meth.

http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc023c7bd.jpg
http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps558144c2.jpg
http://i822.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps523d00d3.jpg

Sounds good guys thxs for the input.i will be ordering the
Cjm stage 0. (ORDERED) :)

Is that mounted in your trunk fire hawk

Right on man. Phunk produces really good ****

Yes. Cut some foam out and it fits nice and snug. Take your rear cargo mat to an upholstery shop and the cap will be available to unscrew and fill without digging around. It's a 2 gallon tank so it makes mixing 50/50 retard proof if close to empty

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

Ihad to use some Google-Fu, buuuut, here is where to find it. GTM charged me an arm and a leg for it ($81) That cap was another $10.
Flambeau Fluid Systems 2 Gallon CARB/EPA Compliant Fuel Tank 070960A-FL

Here isa link to their catalog as well.
http://www.flambeaufluids.com/2012_catalog.pdf

The RRP is based on a single 255 walbro as its primary full time pump. It can either be plumbed into the factory filter and regulator housing to use with an otherwise stock fuel system, or you can get pretty wild with it by adding a secondary pump inside it, and if you need to, bypass the factory filter and regulator (requires a return kit as well).

Now I tell everyone that I really prefer the primary pump remain the 255 that it comes with, because its a special version of the 255 that has a siphon in it that is being used to help fill the RRP and enhance its starvation eliminating qualities, while helping the stock pump live longer by creating extra surge can overflow back to the stock pump to help it stay wet and recover from fuel slosh. That said, it might work just fine without that special primary pump, and perhaps it would do fine on its own with a 340 or 400 or 485 as its only single pump. However, it was not intended to run this way, and hasnt been tested this way. If someone wanted to experiment with it like that, I would support the testing and give a little discount to the customer... however, this is not in the cards for most guys. This year, I will be personally testing it that way... but its still winter here.

If it works that way, it will make everyone's life easier as it will allow a cleaner and easier way to support boosted Z's, rather than having to run two pumps in the RRP, which requires secondary pump activation through a hobbs boost pressure switch, and extra complicated plumbing inside the tank to accomodate. I would really love it if the RRP still performs well with a 485 as the primary pump. I am going to try a 340 in the stock pump, with a 485 in the RRP. I THINK it will work... but it might not be as ideal for hardcore track use as it wont be doing anything to help the stock pump from starving... but that isnt a problem for street cars like mine.

What would also be awesome about that configuration, is that when I swap in the built motor, I will use the special 255 as the secondary pump in there, and then when the secondary pump is activated, it will also start up the siphon pulling fuel from under the RRP to help make sure it stays full! That would be a really trick configuration.

Anyhow, I am just talking about the RRP and boosted cars in general here, and not exactly answering your question clearly. With the standard configuration of the RRP that I sell as a full kit, you are based on a 255 pump which is a good pump but cannot supply as much fuel for the power a VQ37VHR is capable of... so it depends on how hard the customer wants to push it. On top of that, it depends on what other fuel system upgrades are done. If the car also has my Stage 2 fuel system on there, that will help get more out of that 255 pump than if all the plumbing outside the tank is still stock.

I have a photo light box showing up next week and a new digital camera and there are going to be tons of informative updates on the fuel system options for everyone. Even at this very moment I am refining the fuel system items almost daily as I receive feedback from customers and also some very useful feedback from Fast Intentions as they were the first to install the very first S2 fuel system of mine.

When I started the thread in my signature, it was my intention to do this earlier... however i realized I was ill equipped. I got everything on the way to make all the complex details of my fuel system product selection much more clear for everyone to understand. I know that currently the only way to get the details is to catch me on the phone (which is a difficult task in itself lately), and im working on fixing that.