Yeah we're dealing with a forced induction problem in this thread (or at least, I hope we are). Maybe I should specify that in the title.
If nothing else, this is a good discussion. Just turned out to be more complicated than I thought it'd be.

It's never that easy, especially dealing with aerodynamics and airflow.

if you cut a hole in your hood right where the hood scoop sits, you can technically turn a fake hood scoop into a real one

Well I'd need to make sure it would be functional first. Consensus here seems to be that the scoop shown in that picture wouldn't do much (if anything)

It _probably_ won't do anything but it's impossible to tell for sure without doing some testing.

If the engine compartment is sealed as well as others have said, then trying to force more cool air in won't do much good. Sounds like letting the hot air out is the way to go. I like the idea of venting the undertray and exhausting the hot air under the car but don't know if it would actually work or what side-effects it might have.

Interesting discussion.

Why get fans? Just turn them on at a lower temp right?

Oh of course. I'm just saying in my post that I think the ideal way to improve heat transfer in our cars, and most cars in general is to vent the hood. There's almost no downside - it's weight reduction (hopefully), while allowing massive amounts of heat to vent itself, like Synolimit has experienced. A vented hood will always improve cooling efficiency at the speeds our cars experience.

A larger radiator and fan will help, but like I said - it's more of a "reactionary" solution to the problem, versus a "primary" approach of simply allowing the heat to not form as heat soak and get trapped in the first place. Another factor is also if people are okay with replacing the OEM hood - in that case, a larger rad / fans are required. But for race cars, you won't find one without hood/engine bay venting. ^^
Getting larger fans or more efficient fans will allow more airflow, which in most cases for cars, is beneficial. The OEM Radiator/Fan combination for some people simply cannot keep the car cool at full tilt, and that is where I'm assuming people are having issues, esp. with turbos.

I would like to have some custom vents cut in that are akin to the old 280Z factory hood vents.

Uprev adjusts the temp they turn on. The GTM fans move a lot more air than the stock ones.

Alstann, you're right on the vents being the best way to get hot air out of the engine bay. If there were a vented hood on the market I liked from a functional/aesthetic standpoint I'd start with that. I'm just not a huge fan of the options we have on that front, so I'm going to try adding the fans to the CSF radiator I've got, lowering the fan temperature more and running less antifreeze. If that isn't enough to keep temps stable, then ill start cutting holes.

Maybe that's why I stay cool too. Forgot I put maybe 3/4 a gallon of Moore Cool racing fluid in (left over from doing my WRX) and a bottle of water wetter.

If you don't drive in the winter or live in a below 32 degree state, 100% distilled water and water wetter works nice like in my 600cc SS.

That probably has a lot to do with it. Moore Cool is good stuff. I figure 25%antifreeze 75% water and a bottle of water wetter will do fine. Houston rarely freezes, so that's not a huge concern. I still don't feel completely comfortable at 100% water. I wish someone other than Mishimoto made a lower temp thermostat. I'd like to go with a colder temp one, but I wouldn't run that one if you have it to me.

We freeze - i can't get away with that in Maryland.

It's always good to have at least some antifreeze, even say 10%, because then your coolant smells/feels/tastes a bit like coolant. Really helps with tracking down a leak, or confirming that water found somewhere in the bay is or isn't from your coolant system.

I've always heard that's it's a bad idea to run straight water in an Aluminum engine because of corrosion. Antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors. Or is that another of my out-dated facts?

I've heard that, in addition to seals inside the motor need some of the conditioners in coolant to stay in good condition. Water wetter and similar additives claim to have seal conditioners and corrosion inhibitors so you can run water only, but ill always run at least a little coolant just to be sure.