True Dat. You can't go wrong having GTM do the install, for sure. And Nissan did not cut corners on the internals, hence the reliability. If you had told me three years ago that the VQ37 could be fed 12psi reliably, I would have been like gtfo.

Whats this mean another spoon fed member? All i was saying is your wording isn't very clear I'm not disagreeing with you. Callin me spoonfed :rolleyes:

I Babied mine only got on it once and a whole cly3 took a dump at 457WHP.
Faulty install ( fuel pump and feed line) Stillen SC :(

I've always despised the phrase: "He BLEW his motor!" 99.9% of the time HE didn't do this on purpose, the motor blew.

In my case this is only partially true. I drove it 20 miles before it completely locked up. LOL! Crank bearings = NFG.

I ran five HARD passes at the dragstrip attempting to get ONE clean run. Each time the friggin' fuel cut or some limiter come on and then went off. Almost always in second gear. This has happened in the past, and Jimmy (my builder) told me to hold it up there a little higher. Last Dec I did, and it went 11.13et. Twice.

This time: not so fortunate. Working boost guage with memory never exceeded 15.8 lbs, despite twisting it a turn. Jimmy's convinced that did it. I'm not. It barely went 120mph in any configuration.

I was trying to better the 11.13 time. So STUPID close to the tens, I HAD to try. Wouldn't you?

I had installed 4.08:1 gears and considered this to help. Truth is, on the street this is a GREAT mod. At the track, it didn't let the engine boost OR work. I'm dead certain that was the wrong direction. For me. But I had to try it to find out.

Play with fire.:icon14: Yes, same components I ran before.

No excuses. The dragstrip is HARD on parts. Five runs in a row flogging it didn't help. (All but one were in the mid elevens.)

The car was smooooth as silk and ran stupendous with over 550whp, until 'I BLEW IT' by going to the strip. LOL!

That is all. I'm searching for an OEM engine and will be parting out the performance parts. Soon.

Jim

How was this guy spoon fed? Did u even read the thread on the G? Sounds to me like he got ****** by a tuner shop FP that had no idea what they were doing and then got strong armed by the shop and its forum following fan boys. Anyway, selfish ignorant comments aside my builds going to be 500 whp w/forged pistons, rods, and heavier springs and retainers to prevent floating, NOT GOING TO SLEAVE. Other than that from every credible source i could ask 500whp is the limit with proper install. Repeat PROPER INSTALL.

500whp is fine on the stock motor. Why would you build the motor for that?

Sharps built motor failed?! O_o

He caught it before he went BOOM

What setup do you have, if you don't mind me asking? You are making awesome numbers on such reasonable boost levels! :tup:

I'm trying VERY hard to make sure my GTM setup will be the same - lots of power on less boost. Coupled with a good tune, I have complete faith in the VQ motor.

FireDan ur numbers were with race gas correct?

There is efficiency to be had with a larger single turbo compared to twins as well, but yes, like Elpuerno said, he was using race gas.

I remembered he was. Would benefit everyone for him to disclose that. Can be misleading and have guys thinking they can make the same powers on pump gas.

You guys should not be hung up on psi vs. whp.



There are a few variable here. One that is mostly overlooked is the type of dyno used. DJ is somewhat the industry standard, but there are other dyno brands that will read a lot lower than a DJ, and a few that will read a lot higher than a DJ. So the power between the lowest reading dyno out there and the highest could be as much as 20%. In the end, each dyno is a tool used to tune a car, and the best way to find out the power a car is putting down is take it down to the drag strip, and make a few runs.


There are other things to keep in mind as well. Fuel (especially race gas vs. 91 pump gas), weather conditions/temperature can play a big role, as well as the tuner himself and the way the dyno is set-up. Some tuners for example do not feel comfortable exceeding 420ft/wtq on these engine, and other are more than happy pushing things much further than that.

it's not about the type of dyno its about how it is calibrated, you can make a dyno dynamics read higher than a dynapack if you wanted to.

Add me to the list.

At 10k miles my motor went down with TT and oil cooler, dual intercooler setup. Boost was set to 10psi and WHP was just over 500.

My check engine light came on and the engine began to run very rough. I had it towed and the code the engine threw was a valve error.

Long story short, I now have a built engine after a long wait and Many dollars invested I hadn't planned on.

What can I say?
You play with fire, you can get burnt!

Again Coop sorry to here about you built motor failing as I have stated on the G37 forum. The thing that really sucks but stands out is a bearing failure that makes me think oil starvation (burning some oil) or improper clearances during assembly of the engine.

I really hope everything works out for you this just really blows.

I'm really sorry to hear this. I hope that you can get your car back on the road again soon. Did anyone figure out what caused the valve error and the subsequent engine failure?

Also, wasn't your car the test vehicle for the 16G MHI Kit (in the link below)?

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ctane-7at.html

This thread makes me cringe... Sorry to all the guys out there that had their motors let go.

Yes my car was the original. Then it had the problem so we rebuilt it when we found out it needed to be cracked open to fix the problem.
It seems it was the valve that bent somehow. Sam said possibly over-rev or something.
So ultimately I went stage1 long block with forged internals.
In the end I ended up with the Garrett turbos and a stage 4 tranny so I wouldn't face any more issues.

It's so much easier buying a car that is already Turboed and to be honest with all of the time and money you have to put into a non-forced induction car you would be looking at almost the same money... The gtr will be my next car.

Yikes, I don't like this thread

Very true, and I am thinking along the same lines as you, but the sweat, joy, experience, and tears that comes along with building a custom car cannot be beat;). Check out what the underdog can do with built motor and GTM kit. Just imagine what a lighter 370z with just a turbo kit can do!

2012 GTR R35 vs G35 Sedan GTM Stage 3 twin turbo kit - YouTube

And to follow up that I would love to see who has the most miles on their FI stock block with details on boost settings.... I have a buddy just outside of dallas with 350z , single turbo APS system with over 100k as his dailey driver.. Keep in mind it does burn oil now but still runs great...

Damn, i should just buy an M3, i need 4 doors soon! haha.

I'll spank a stock GTR. Price difference of upgrading a gtr is even more insane than what we pay for the 379 m g37. There's more to it than just the price tag of a car. To maintain and/or upgrade a gtr will cost u a pretty penny. If money wasn't a problem gtr all day.

I do love the GTR because of everything it can do and it has great styling, I just think the 370 looks hotter.

I would say phunk & I have probably the highest miles.
He has cracked 50k on his greddy TT kit with stock block and I am about to break or have (need to check my logs) 50k with a GTM stage 1 SC kit.

And I thought I was doing great with 10k miles. Good to hear u guys still running strong.

I read cracked and flinched a little with all this talk of blown motors!

At this point at 4k with no problems. My FI 3' exhaust should ship Friday and I will drive to Z1 in atl for a tune.... I stay right around 10psi but have wicked it up a few times... muahahahahaha!!!!

how many people have darton sleeves? The more I read this thread the more I think Ill end up buying some forged internals before the TT so to have peace of mind

I don't think anyone has sleeved these motors. Maybe that 1 "1k" hp Z but I'm not sure.

...well its a vq35


http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f.../MIDSLEEVE.jpg

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...7/MIDBLOCK.jpg


http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...SANVQ35MID.jpg

Lol... specify man. On the 35 yes there's a few but I think just a handful.

I'm around 57k miles right now, and the kit was installed at 22k miles. It was daily driven for the past 1.5 years with max boost around 9 PSI. It's not a daily anymore, but [knock on wood] the motor seems to be holding up well. With test pipes, the exhaust note is a bit quieter for some reason. [shrugs]

Iam planning on going to 10k then doing a compression test to just see how its effecting the motor is such a short time... Also I run motul in the whole car, engine oil, diff, brakes, tranny, clutch...

A friend of mine didnt boost his until 50k miles or more and now has over 70k miles on it. GTM Stg 2 over 500WHP, cant remember exact numbers. He has beat on his car before and after install.

To hear phunk has 50k the way he drives make me feel 100% confident this car would of lasted me forever with my driving habbits. This motor has been boosted around 12k miles with 0 issues.

I know it was mentioned before, Its all in the tune and the install. I know members here an over on G37, that have 30+k miles on their FI'd cars with ZERO issues. An here I went like 6200 miles and BOOM !! :ughdance: Because my installer( Norwood Infiniti) Botched the install BAD, Then couldn't diaq the issue when I bought the car back. :confused:

Any additional information on what exactly was botched? I hear a lot about botched installs causing failure, but there are usually few details on what errors exactly were made and that info would be very helpful for those of us who plan on installing our own kits.

Pinched/bent fuel line. Made the engine go lean under high load and boom. It was unfortunate since he did everything right on his end. You can skim through the entire tread if you want the details. He was very detailed throughout the whole experience.