That's fine. I just know no performance shop would run it this way. I could test a battery with my tongue to see if works but rather do it the proper way. If you ever have a trouble shooting issue then you will have to isolate from the two objects. Sorry I'm so strong opinionated just giving solid info to insure proper recommended techniques.

My friend, I respect your opinion. I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just saying the same results will happen either way he decides to do it. It's quite easy to isolate the two. It's just a matter of taste I guess. I for one, didn't want to drill a hole in the plastic plenum for nothing, so I just T'd off of the one we already had to tap into for the kit. The best of both world would be to buy a vacuum block and just plug everything from it.

Like they say, there's more than one way to skin a cat, doesn't mean one is better than the other, as long as they have the same results.

And what do you mean about the battery? You trying to tell me there's a better way of testing those? :D

Your way is not wrong either and I know it will work. I just choose to have a single source for a boost controller. That's just the way I recommend and I was taught so I stick to that. Just as you stated make sure the line to the boost controller is short as possiable also.

Lets go get a beer now?

I just did a fast scan about this thread.

So Sphon, youre saying that we should not follow the instruction manual that came with the HKS EVC 6?

sounds good with me :tup:

Guys... This is real easy.

EVC solenoid has 3 vacuum ports on it.

Port 1: internal map sensor. (Boost/vacuum sensor)
Port 2: wastegate reference in (from manifold)
Port 3: wastegate reference out (to wastegates)

So the hks manual says to Tee in port 1 off the fuel pressure regulator line. It's merely a suggestions, it doesn't matter at all. So long as it ends up seeing manifold pressure. On a 350/370/g37/etc you couldn't do it this way if you wanted.. The regulator is in the gas tank and has no vacuum reference to tap.

Here's the thing about port 1 guys... For 10 years I have been hooking up port 1 to Tee into port 2, right at the solenoid. Cause its the same ****. It works fine, controls my boost to .1-.2 repeatability.

As for the wiring.. Power and ground and your set, you got boost controlling.

If you want boost by speed, you will need to hook up the speed wire.
If you want a scramble boost switch, hook one up.

Always make sure the boost controller settings are set for "actuator type" if you are only using the side port of external gates and leaving the top ports open. Or external type if you're using both ports on the gate. This is important or boost will sky rocket when you test it.

Here's how I have had the wastegates hooked up in my 370 forever; Nissan 370Z Forum - phunk's Album: phunk's TT 370z - Picture

I put a vacuum manifold on the brake booster line. Notice both ports 1 and 2 for the evc are connected to the manifold. Then port 3 goes to a bulkhead on my firewall pointing down to my wastegates.

Said and done with the plastic back on : Nissan 370Z Forum - phunk's Album: phunk's TT 370z - Picture

That's my wastegate line headed down.

Also note in the 2nd pic that there is a Tee behind my drivers side throttle... There is one exactly like it for the passenger side throttle also... They are my BOV lines.

I have not tapped into the plastic manifold, there is no reason to make a mess with that... It's got a couple ports on it already.

http://oi40.tinypic.com/2j3lgn4.jpg

tHIS WILL BE what I will be doing. Unless there is a problem...

The wastegates I have has 2 top ports.

For a low boost car I just use the side ports of the wastegates and top ports open. Don't have enough exhaust mani pressure to force the gates open, so no need for the top ports unless your higher boost or have real restrictive tiny turbos.

The diagram above isn't exactly clear since it doesn't label ports on any devices. You should just ask Sasha how he wants you to do it for his kit... If you do it wrong, your wastegates won't work, and your engine can blow up the first time you test it. You need this correct first try.

All your T taps are correct. But as Phunk said you don't have the stepper motor labeled with the three ports.

IF you went from left to right looking down at the stepper motor with the ports facing up/ north in your diagram the two furthest ports to the right need to be swapped. Then it would be right.

Yea I only made a general mock up of where the hoses are supposed to go. When I actually set it up, I will put them in the right places.

Where did everyone place there EVC stepping motor?

Funny. Just installed this morning. Mine is on the upper side of the fire wall even with the manifold. But I have no heater/ AC lines in the way. But it's right behind the brakes lines that feed the passenger side