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theDreamer 08-19-2013 02:37 PM

That is what I was planning on running, I very rarely see over 205-210 water temps unless I am stuck in bumper to bumper traffic for 20 minutes.
My oil cooler is a bit annoying, there are lines running to migrate the oil filter to the other side of the oil pan, and then my oil cooler itself is located underneath the driver side headlight tucked away. Venting that fender liner would probably do more benefit cooling wise than fan speed change.

Saw your next post, I have the CSF radiator, lasted a year with stock before I upgraded.

Sh0velMan 08-19-2013 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer (Post 2452636)
That is what I was planning on running, I very rarely see over 205-210 water temps unless I am stuck in bumper to bumper traffic for 20 minutes.
My oil cooler is a bit annoying, there are lines running to migrate the oil filter to the other side of the oil pan, and then my oil cooler itself is located underneath the driver side headlight tucked away. Venting that fender liner would probably do more benefit cooling wise than fan speed change.

Saw your next post, I have the CSF radiator, lasted a year with stock before I upgraded.

So yeah you probably need to vent the fender for sure (forgot that the GTM setup moves the cooler there) and think about adding a compact fan there for it if you get into issues. Fan speed will have zero (positive) effect on your oil cooler, so you can focus just on coolant temps.

With the CSF you should be able to use a table like the one I posted and have a reasonable expectation of the car keeping itself under 200 deg. With the stock table...not so much. I think it's an emissions thing or something that makes Nissan run the temps so high, but the car definitely pulls timing and makes less power when you let the temps get that high... Now what I have no data on is what voltage is being reported when you are running your A/C.

Can we even log that?

Because it may be running your fans wide open already in traffic if you have the A/C on and it's a billion degrees outside. You could at least log the duty cycle and see where that is landing?

theDreamer 08-19-2013 02:46 PM

I can add the duty cycle to the things I log just to get it included and more data.
Not sure on voltage, but it should be able to log it.

I know chuck has asked I do the same logs with A/C off if possible, I think he just wants me to sweat in my car.

Chuck33079 08-19-2013 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer (Post 2452657)
I know chuck has asked I do the same logs with A/C off if possible, I think he just wants me to sweat in my car.

Of course ;)

The only time I get the temp gauge to start creeping up is 100+ degree days when I get stuck in traffic with the AC running full blast. No problems with the AC off and windows down. It would be interesting to see the actual water temp difference between running the AC and leaving it off.

wstar 08-19-2013 04:18 PM

When looking at fan duty tradeoffs (well, post-warm-up - obviously we want the fans off until the car is basically warmed up), as far as I can tell there's only two downsides to running the fans full speed all the time: Current draw on the alternator adding drag to the engine, and wearing out the fans faster. I could care less if the fans fail every 3 years instead every 5 years or whatever, cost of doing business. I would expect the current draw to be offset by the power gains from running cooler by a mile.

Then there's MPH thing, but if you've got other devices stacked up with your radiator for direct flow (oil coolers, intercoolers), then even at speed I think the fans are helping move air through the stack better. So my philosophy on the whole thing tends to come out to "ignore speed and AC stuff. If the coolant temps are 180+, fans go 100%"

Mr.Squeeze 09-05-2013 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer (Post 2452344)
First log done last week, just got around to editing it.
Also, the fat wavy line on the oil temp is because my temps have been 'bouncing' around lately. I originally thought it was the gauge going bad but the OBD2 sensor and uprev both read it this way. I have added a red line above it to show the actual change in oil temp in a more usable readout.

Details
First graph:
-Morning cold start, around 6:00AM
-About a 20 mile drive with little to no traffic, almost all freeway, speed kept above 70MPH
-Ambient temps were between 80-86 degrees
-The point where the rad fans kick on is when I was exiting off a freeway, sat in a right turn lane for 2-3 minutes and then got back onto another freeway

Peak numbers:
-Engine oil 192°F
-Fuel temp 95°F
-Intake temp 95°F
-Coolant temp 210°F

Engine off numbers:
-Engine oil 190°F
-Fuel temp 95°F
-Intake temp 90°F
-Coolant temp 203°F

( Click to show/hide )


Second graph:
-This is after a 10 minute idle with the engine shut off from the above drive
-Followed by a short 3-4 minute drive to see how the engine will cool off
-Speed kept under 30mph

Engine on numbers:
-Engine oil 172°F
-Fuel temp 97°F
-Intake temp 120°
-Coolant temp 208°

Lowest numbers:
-Engine oil 160°F
-Fuel temp 97°F
-Intake temp 118°F
-Coolant temp 203°F

( Click to show/hide )


This is some good data right here ,and the main reason why I got rid of my CSF radiator. Driving around and having almost 210 degree coolant temp is hot one pull and your over 220 easy.

theDreamer 09-05-2013 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Squeeze (Post 2473805)
This is some good data right here ,and the main reason why I got rid of my CSF radiator. Driving around and having almost 210 degree coolant temp is hot one pull and your over 220 easy.

What radiator have you gone with now?
I can agree, even with the CSF radiator I can hit 220, but I am also on stock fan settings still but that is mostly for post hard driving to help cool down. After my hood upgrade, if it works, my next cooling upgrade is going to be the SPAL fans by GTM to hopefully just drop in and pull more air.

theDreamer 09-05-2013 07:21 AM

Also, for an update, I have hit a wall with excel. I am acquiring 100k plus data points and Excel 2007 only allows for a graph with 30-40k data points. Working on my office to order a licence for office 2013 so I can upgrade, as with Excel 2013 my only limit is memory.

Mr.Squeeze 09-05-2013 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer (Post 2473828)
What radiator have you gone with now?
I can agree, even with the CSF radiator I can hit 220, but I am also on stock fan settings still but that is mostly for post hard driving to help cool down. After my hood upgrade, if it works, my next cooling upgrade is going to be the SPAL fans by GTM to hopefully just drop in and pull more air.


I just swapped it for the Mishimoto radiator 2 days ago so far I am loving the results. So far I haven't had any 85 degree days to compare it in the same temps I was having high coolant temp issues. I will say this much testing it in the same type of conditions I have the last two days has given much lower temps.


I had my tuner Vince change my fan settings for them to come on sooner and it help very little with the CSF radiator.

Sh0velMan 09-05-2013 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Squeeze (Post 2473848)
I just swapped it for the Mishimoto radiator 2 days ago so far I am loving the results. So far I haven't had any 85 degree days to compare it in the same temps I was having high coolant temp issues. I will say this much testing it in the same type of conditions I have the last two days has given much lower temps.


I had my tuner Vince change my fan settings for them to come on sooner and it help very little with the CSF radiator.

Any good pics of the Mishimoto? Especially with comparison to the CSF?

Just curious, I find your results very interesting!

Chuck33079 09-05-2013 08:29 AM

How did the Mishimoto radiator look? The one I bought from them years ago was a mess. It held water, but the welds were crap and it barely fit. Have they improved?

GaleForce 09-05-2013 08:39 AM

There is a detailed DIY with the mishimoto rad somewhere on this forum. Has good pictures too. I'll try to find it and share the link.

GaleForce 09-05-2013 08:40 AM

Found it, thanks to Google :tup: (the forum search sucks donkey balls)

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...r-install.html

Chuck33079 09-05-2013 08:45 AM

I was hoping for something a little clearer. The pics are nice, but you can't really tell what the welds look like, and that was a problem when I had a Mishimoto on another car.

GaleForce 09-05-2013 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2473935)
I was hoping for something a little clearer. The pics are nice, but you can't really tell what the welds look like, and that was a problem when I had a Mishimoto on another car.

This any better?

Nissan 370Z Performance Aluminum Radiator, 2009+, by Mishimoto

Chuck33079 09-05-2013 08:51 AM

Better, but I'd hope the pics on their own website would be good. :rofl2:

Their problems seem to be hit or miss, leading me to believe their quality control is still as good as it's always been. That's why I wanted to hear back from Mr. Squeeze, since he doesn't **** around with his car.

GaleForce 09-05-2013 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2473955)
Better, but I'd hope the pics on their own website would be good. :rofl2:

Their problems seem to be hit or miss, leading me to believe their quality control is still as good as it's always been. That's why I wanted to hear back from Mr. Squeeze, since he doesn't **** around with his car.

^^^ Truth!

roplusbee 09-05-2013 04:02 PM

Wait, what? I have a hard time believing that Mishimoto has developed anything better than "on-par" with CSF. We need a good 'ol Texas car to report, where we have frequent 100 degree days.

Mr.Squeeze 09-06-2013 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2473901)
How did the Mishimoto radiator look? The one I bought from them years ago was a mess. It held water, but the welds were crap and it barely fit. Have they improved?


It didn't look bad at all here are a few crappy cell phone pictures I took.

http://imageshack.us/a/img713/8162/klw7.jpg


http://imageshack.us/a/img30/5584/icff.jpg


http://imageshack.us/a/img46/7787/vbsp.jpg

theDreamer 09-06-2013 10:31 AM

It looks like the Mis is overall deeper versus the CSF.

Chuck33079 09-06-2013 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Squeeze (Post 2475581)
It didn't look bad at all here are a few crappy cell phone pictures I took.

Maybe they're making progress. Or you got a good one. That's always been the real issue. It's pretty hit or miss on their quality.

When you were running the CSF radiator, were you running 50/50 antifreeze and water?

Mr.Squeeze 09-06-2013 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2475593)
Maybe they're making progress. Or you got a good one. That's always been the real issue. It's pretty hit or miss on their quality.

When you were running the CSF radiator, were you running 50/50 antifreeze and water?


With the CSF I ran a 50/50 mix at first and I also ran a 70/30 mix with Recline Water wetter neither worked . I pretty ran simular temps to the OP of this thread witch is hot. One pull on the highway and your running real hot.

Sh0velMan 09-06-2013 12:38 PM

Those pics settle it for me.. Mishimoto is definitely the superior unit for performance applications.

Mr.Squeeze 09-06-2013 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roplusbee (Post 2474574)
Wait, what? I have a hard time believing that Mishimoto has developed anything better than "on-par" with CSF. We need a good 'ol Texas car to report, where we have frequent 100 degree days.

The OP of this thread live in Texas look at the temperatures there hot over 200 degrees in 80-85 degree weather . I keep reading on this forum about CSF quality on this forum , and let me tell you my first hand experience. My CSF radiator bleeder screw crossed threaded just taking it out while trying to bleed the system of air , this also happened to a friend that has a similar set up to mine with a built motor his drain plus also crossed threaded . The CSF raditor was the only option for a while now there are better choices Mishimoto and GTM. The radiator is just to small its one row 30MM. It just won't cut it when it comes to pushing the car hard .

I ultimately believe that the GTM radiator would be the best for our cars its just very expensive.

Sh0velMan 09-06-2013 03:34 PM

I went with my $250 PWR radiator that required heavy modification of the support simply because the CSF was too expensive and too small for its price...

Didn't know the Mishimoto was so much larger or I might have just gone for that.

The GTM unit is marvelous, but it's really expensive...

Rusty 09-06-2013 06:13 PM

Do you know what is the capacity differance in the radiators?

Mr.Squeeze 09-06-2013 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan (Post 2476118)
I went with my $250 PWR radiator that required heavy modification of the support simply because the CSF was too expensive and too small for its price...

Didn't know the Mishimoto was so much larger or I might have just gone for that.

The GTM unit is marvelous, but it's really expensive...

How big is the PWR radiator ?


Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 2476299)
Do you know what is the capacity differance in the radiators?


I am not sure of the capacity difference but the Mishimoto is 40MM vs 30MM for the CSF ,and you can clearly see the size difference in the two.

Sh0velMan 09-06-2013 09:09 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Squeeze (Post 2476331)
How big is the PWR radiator ?





I am not sure of the capacity difference but the Mishimoto is 40MM vs 30MM for the CSF ,and you can clearly see the size difference in the two.

Big. But like I said, took a lot of work to make it fit.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1378519735

pokeyl 09-09-2013 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan (Post 2476442)
Big. But like I said, took a lot of work to make it fit.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1378519735

Do you still have AC in the car?

theDreamer 09-09-2013 11:00 AM

CSF Radiator specs for comparison to others:

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/t...om/Capture.jpg

G37sHKS 09-09-2013 12:27 PM

Im really shocked that Mishimoto made something better than CSF.

I went with CSF radiator because i was 90% sure that GTM fans will work with it (I wanted to go with GTM radiator but they didnt have it in stock at that time)

If radiator didnt cool the engine down then dont blame it on radiator, this car was not designed for boost so there is no air duct to engine as much as factory boosted car.

You cant really depend on radiator and throw it away if it didnt work out. you have to upgrade hood, bumper, hoses, fans, settings, etc.

Chuck33079 09-09-2013 12:29 PM

I'm looking forward to your results and impressions of the CSF rad/GTM fan combo now that you've told us it fits. That may be my next purchase. If it works well in your climate, it'll be fine anywhere.

Mr.Squeeze 09-09-2013 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G37sHKS (Post 2479012)
Im really shocked that Mishimoto made something better than CSF.

I went with CSF radiator because i was 90% sure that GTM fans will work with it (I wanted to go with GTM radiator but they didnt have it in stock at that time)

If radiator didnt cool the engine down then dont blame it on radiator, this car was not designed for boost so there is no air duct to engine as much as factory boosted car.

You cant really depend on radiator and throw it away if it didnt work out. you have to upgrade hood, bumper, hoses, fans, settings, etc.


In my case the radiator just didn't have quick enough recovery in getting the temps back down so it was thrown away. Now upgrading the fans vent the hood will help, its still doesn't change the face that the CSF is to small. Once you start getting up there in higher boost levels it just cant keep up. Your combo of the CSF with the GTM fans should get better results than I had though. Once my bleeder screw crossed threaded I was done with it.

If anyone wants a used CSF radiator for cheap send me a pm.

elperuano 09-09-2013 02:51 PM

I have the mishimoto radiator and it's awesome. Keeps the car cool in the hot n humid Miami. Yesterday had fun with an old school m5 and stayed cool after multiple high and long boost runs

theDreamer 09-09-2013 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Squeeze (Post 2479288)
In my case the radiator just didn't have quick enough recovery in getting the temps back down so it was thrown away. Now upgrading the fans vent the hood will help, its still doesn't change the face that the CSF is to small. Once you start getting up there in higher boost levels it just cant keep up. Your combo of the CSF with the GTM fans should get better results than I had though. Once my bleeder screw crossed threaded I was done with it.

If anyone wants a used CSF radiator for cheap send me a pm.

Now this is from a SC standpoint which has a smaller intercooler.
Going from the OEM to CSF I saw a good drop in temp after pushing it and recovering, but the CSF is a bit small. It looks to be a solid upgrade for N/A track car, but throwing in boost and high rev driving I think it will fall short. Now new fans, hood, etc might bring it up against others but being smaller will keep it falling short.

theDreamer 09-09-2013 05:04 PM

Getting my re-tune this Friday and one of the main settings we are adjusting the fan speed, finally. Been looking over different options, considering Texas heat I found 2 very good options, thoughts on which to go with?

Option 1:
http://www.specialtyz.com/images/seb/fanmodsetting.jpg

Option 2:
http://www.the370z.com/attachments/f...fan_speeds.jpg


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