Originally Posted by OldRice (Post 2386420)

^^^Ok, so these pics are to generate ideas only as obviously some of the layout won't work due to dual intakes\TBs, fuel rail location, and other minor nuances between 350 & 370.

The trunk shots are to show you fitment of my MDF false trunk floor. The middle hex screw secures the bottle bracket to the board, the top hex is the long screw connecting down to the spare mount (under the board). Additionally under the board and mounted to the back wall is a 40/60amp relay and my progressive controller "brain". Most wiring travels under the carpet and thru driver\passgr kick plate trim edging.

Remote bottle momentary switch is on the plastic panel home to the fuse box. I chose that location cuz there is empty room in there, and again if I wanted to revert to stock I just need a new cheap panel. Solenoid wiring runs under the rubber passthru grommet to a relay in the batt pod area. Easy 12V feed to relay and switch panel wiring running thru a wire loom grommet around where passenger windshield meets dash.

Switch command center is where my OEM nav used to be. Fabbed an aluminum backplate, powdercoated wrinkle black and went with Dorman 30amp toggles. NAV keyboard was popped of buttons\joystick and wrapped. Dynotune pressure gauge is 3M taped to side for easy removal.

My ultimate goal was to limit any permanent alterations to the dash and such to give me the option to revert to stock look. I didn't care about the OEM NAV as it is dated technology and I went double din headunit that is better NAV.

Originally Posted by AlexRaymond19 (Post 2388483)

Have you thought about redesigning the mounting bracket so it sits lower? Realistically you just need the two bottle clamps attatched to a flat piece of metal. I dont know if height is an issue or not for you, but something to think about anyway. I really like that placement. If i ever pull the trigger, I was thinking about 2 smaller bottles behind driver and passanger seat, but I think the way your are doing it is much better

Originally Posted by OldRice (Post 2389714)

Nice work so far. You will wind up refining every idea you try, so view it as an evolving prototype. I can't tell ya how many midstream changes in my setup i wound up making but each version got better.

I do think your original idea of mounting the bottle on your ironing board will make it the fastest however.

Originally Posted by chrischhorn (Post 2389985)

Changed my mind today on how I'm going to mount the solenoids. Was originally going to mount them on the front of the block like NeverBoneStck did with his setup but now I'm moving them to the back to near the firewall. I'm going to have to order some new fuel and nitrous lines to go from the solenoids as the ones that came with it are 2ft each but I need 1 1ft fuel line, 1 1ft nitrous line, 1 3 ft fuel line, and 1 3ft nitrous line in order to run the way I have the solenoids set now. I originally had the lines crossing the front of the block under the valve cover with the original mounting points but now the lines will be running behind the intake manifold so they will not be as noticeable.
Friday, I will be receiving everything I need in order to do my battery relocation to the trunk also. Using an Odyssey PC680 battery. Once again location of the bottle may change too. I'd like to be able to tuck it behind the rear bar in the trunk where the styrofoam pad is but not sure if it will fit. Just a little bit more stealthy and I can keep all my trunk space. If that doesn't work out then I will just rework the current mount to fit a little better and continue as is. Sunday is when all the major wiring begins!

Originally Posted by OldRice (Post 2390688)

Things to consider.....

1. Noids-to-nozzles: Buy your N2O lines longer than your fuel lines to help your tuner manage out "lean spike" on the tune (even if you don't tune)

2. Wiring: I am self-admitted moron when it comes to 12V wiring, so I had a shop do overall layout on that. But I needed more relays than was provided in the basic kit. Go with the Bueller 40/60amp relays (they have marine version that are water tight if you need that). Also solder & shrink tube all your connectors where you can....but im sure you know that already.

Originally Posted by madwi (Post 2421845)

http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/ha...y-emoticon.gif
Really wanting to see tapping into fuel lines...mounting of solenoids, tps switch...get with it man, you gotta be moved into the new pad by now :D Have you had a chance to play with the car lately?