Dude , that sucks about the gears . Sounds like to big of a project for them .. Hopefully they can figure it out .. Get that nitrous going ..

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Car is basically gonna get gutted tonight to start running lines and wires. Bottle position is already decided so I'll just need to start connecting all the wires. Going to do it right and solder and heat wrap everything. try to make it as clean as possible. haven't decided how I'm going to mount the switch panel yet though.

Sorry for the slow start, been moving to a new place so the nitrous kit was put on hold but now for actual progress!
The car is gutted and starting the wiring tonight!

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...psf56b16c5.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps88a1c982.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps616fe9bf.jpg

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This is the bottle strapped up with all the add ons lol. Blow down tube, remote opener, bottle warmer, auto bottle warmer, digital pressure gauge switch, analog bottle gauge. Only thing not on it is the blanket lol.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps970d85b7.jpg

That bottle is about maxed out with accessories!

Nope it's definitely maxed out lol.

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Nice dude! where are you going to mount the the switches and bottle?

Here is my switch setup. I utilized the cubby box so I can keep it hidden a bit :tup: Of course the piece of wood will be getting carpeted to blend better.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps4b241c14.jpg

The bottle mounting is a whole different story. I want to mount it where the spare tire is but I may have to drop the gas tank.... Still trying to decide. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Going for more of the stealth look but it may not be possible.

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sweet locatioin for the switches. that is a good spot to hide many accessories. For the tank you can pull some torretto status and put it under the passenger side seat.:stirthepot:

J/K I know it's too big for that. But what about the space between the bar and spare tire. Is the space wide enough with all the stuff on the bottle. Just leave out the foam.

I have also seen it depending on what type of exhaust you have mounting it outside the car centerline where the muffler is since you have a remote.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...9DSC00011a.JPG

That looks safe....

Sub'd. Loving this build so far.

Yeah under the car is not an option for any reason unless I build a protective barrier for it but even still would be far too much hassle and would just look terrible under the *** of the Z lol. I may go the way V8Killer setup his bottle on that mid frame piece. The 10lb bottle does not fit where the foam piece is between that frame point and the rear bar. I'd like to keep it hidden but dropping the gas tank looks like my only route at this point to do that. Not a problem at all as I'm in no rush to finish this project. Doing it once and doing right but until I find a mounting point I like, I'm at a stand still for running all the wiring and what not.

Yo .... Do the gym bag ..

So I offer this suggestion for bottle placement. Mind you I have a 350Z so I am not sure if Nissan carried the same trunk features to the 370 and could not tell in your earlier gutted pics. In the spare wheel well on 350's there used to be a weird shaped cardboard like piece that lays across the spare under your trunk mat. Under all that there used to be a threaded mounting hole in the middle of the trunk\hatch area that is used for a screw fastner to hold the spare in place. What I did was to remove all those pieces (weigh savings from the spare). I then used the odd shaped carpet mat as a template that I transposed over to some 1/2" pink foam insulation board (avail @ hardware stores) to create a mock trunk floor that lays atop the rear interior wheel well trim pieces and bridges the "gap" where your spare was. Once trimmed and fitted, I transposed the foam board shape to 1/2" MDF. Then drilled a center hole in the MDF in vertical alignment to the factory threaded mounting hole for the spare.

Then I used this bottle bracket type (see attch pic). It come with predrilled holes. I widened the center hole on the plate and bought a 7" long hex screw. Put in your dummy mdf floor, center your bottle bracket plate hole, run the long hex screw to the spare mounting hole, and tighten the the whole thing down. It all holds together with compression, avoids having to drill the trunk floor and dropping the gas tank, and you can revert to stock without permanent alteration. Carpet the MDF and you have that pro-look. My avatar is the finished look. Hopefully my concept is clearly explained.

...then do the hide-a-gym-bag thing if stealth is important.

Repped for this! This is a VERY good alternative to what I was looking to do. I was really wanting to do something without having to drill holes in the floor board other then the blow down tube of course. I was actually thinking of using the spare tire tie down screw for something useful and this definitely made it all come together in my head VERY quickly. While doing all this, I also ordered a Odyssey PC 680 battery and will be relocating it to the rear not only to make it a little easier to run some wires but for better balance and some weight reduction :tup:

Yes the solution actually works out really well. Additionally you can drill a 2" grommet hole with a 2" serrated hole bit in your dummy floor. Then go to Menards\HomeDepot and buy a black plastic desk grommet insert (pic). This will allow you to drop your bottle lines and wires into the spare wheel well vacancy.

Also piercing that factory rubber grommet in the upper left corner of your Z (where the wire loom is) will be your best method to run your primary N2O feeder line under the car, up into the engine bay, to pick up your solenoids.

The N20 line is already running through that grommet :tup: If possible, can you post up some better pics of your setup? I'd love to see how you went about it with yours. Thanks

^^^Ok, so these pics are to generate ideas only as obviously some of the layout won't work due to dual intakes\TBs, fuel rail location, and other minor nuances between 350 & 370.

The trunk shots are to show you fitment of my MDF false trunk floor. The middle hex screw secures the bottle bracket to the board, the top hex is the long screw connecting down to the spare mount (under the board). Additionally under the board and mounted to the back wall is a 40/60amp relay and my progressive controller "brain". Most wiring travels under the carpet and thru driver\passgr kick plate trim edging.

Remote bottle momentary switch is on the plastic panel home to the fuse box. I chose that location cuz there is empty room in there, and again if I wanted to revert to stock I just need a new cheap panel. Solenoid wiring runs under the rubber passthru grommet to a relay in the batt pod area. Easy 12V feed to relay and switch panel wiring running thru a wire loom grommet around where passenger windshield meets dash.

Switch command center is where my OEM nav used to be. Fabbed an aluminum backplate, powdercoated wrinkle black and went with Dorman 30amp toggles. NAV keyboard was popped of buttons\joystick and wrapped. Dynotune pressure gauge is 3M taped to side for easy removal.

My ultimate goal was to limit any permanent alterations to the dash and such to give me the option to revert to stock look. I didn't care about the OEM NAV as it is dated technology and I went double din headunit that is better NAV.

Very nice setup! Here's how I went about mounting it. I'm going to blend it together and make it nicer. I've got a long way to go but I will make it very nice when it's all said and done.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps3934c5b1.jpg

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http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps458775ba.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...psdf58062d.jpg

In for more awesome!

Have you thought about redesigning the mounting bracket so it sits lower? Realistically you just need the two bottle clamps attatched to a flat piece of metal. I dont know if height is an issue or not for you, but something to think about anyway. I really like that placement. If i ever pull the trigger, I was thinking about 2 smaller bottles behind driver and passanger seat, but I think the way your are doing it is much better

The reason it sits where it does is because where the spare tire mount screw into has roughly 1 3/4" raise above the rest. Here's a rough shot of it. Don't mind the nitrous line wrapped around it lol. I'm trimming it to shorten it. I'll be re-working the bracket also of course as you can see I gave a bit too much extra room. Nothing a couple minutes of reworking won't fix though.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...psdcff8e80.jpg

Ah, that explains it. Didn't see that hump before. Looking good! Do they sell smaller bottles?

Nice work so far. You will wind up refining every idea you try, so view it as an evolving prototype. I can't tell ya how many midstream changes in my setup i wound up making but each version got better.

I do think your original idea of mounting the bottle on your ironing board will make it the fastest however.

Changed my mind today on how I'm going to mount the solenoids. Was originally going to mount them on the front of the block like NeverBoneStck did with his setup but now I'm moving them to the back to near the firewall. I'm going to have to order some new fuel and nitrous lines to go from the solenoids as the ones that came with it are 2ft each but I need 1 1ft fuel line, 1 1ft nitrous line, 1 3 ft fuel line, and 1 3ft nitrous line in order to run the way I have the solenoids set now. I originally had the lines crossing the front of the block under the valve cover with the original mounting points but now the lines will be running behind the intake manifold so they will not be as noticeable.
Friday, I will be receiving everything I need in order to do my battery relocation to the trunk also. Using an Odyssey PC680 battery. Once again location of the bottle may change too. I'd like to be able to tuck it behind the rear bar in the trunk where the styrofoam pad is but not sure if it will fit. Just a little bit more stealthy and I can keep all my trunk space. If that doesn't work out then I will just rework the current mount to fit a little better and continue as is. Sunday is when all the major wiring begins!

Things to consider.....

1. Noids-to-nozzles: Buy your N2O lines longer than your fuel lines to help your tuner manage out "lean spike" on the tune (even if you don't tune)

2. Wiring: I am self-admitted moron when it comes to 12V wiring, so I had a shop do overall layout on that. But I needed more relays than was provided in the basic kit. Go with the Bueller 40/60amp relays (they have marine version that are water tight if you need that). Also solder & shrink tube all your connectors where you can....but im sure you know that already.

Relays are taken car of. I have 4 30amp relays with harness. I dont think ill need all four but better safe then sorry. The hardest part of doing what you're saying with the nitrous and fuel lines but that's hard to achieve as the solenoids are not mounted center to the bay. Nitrous is on one side and the Fuel is on the other side and we have to tap 2 intakes unlike your DE motor with only 1 intake. I guess I could achieve that if I mount both solenoids side by side though on 1 side of the bay.

How much longer would you recommend the nitrous line be over the fuel? 3", 6", 1 foot? Thanks for all your input. I haven't ordered the new lines yet so I can still decide how to mount the solenoids and figure out how long they need to be.

Hmmm..I see ur dilemma. Well I don't think it's a hard and fast rule but an old timer trick of the trade. I went either a foot or 18" longer, but as u pointed out easier for me on one TB. My research out of v8 forums puts it anywhere from 12-30". Lean spike is always there to some degree as n20 is coming on at 1000psi.
This helps somewhat to soften the affect, in addition to a tune. Maybe just try to keep your fuel lines as short as possible. Google lean spike and nitrous line, read and make the best call u can.

Curious on HR,VHR dual setups do the kits give u 4 solenoids, or just 2 running split duty?

On second thought best advice is prolly wait see if u actually experience leaning out on your Wideband at activation upon system testing. Then see if it can get tuned out with slightly fatter fuel jet. Then if a real issue shorten ur fuel lines, or bump ur N2O hoses, or Lil of both. It's a balancing act, cuz if ur too short or long you can be overly rich.

These issues are more a concern at larger jetting greater than 100whp due to slight fuel pressure drop and nitrous psi speed.

2 solenoids at split duty. Off the solenoid, it goes into a t fitting and splits 2 ways. Sounds like a lot of extra line to fix the lean spike but its safer then I'll definitely he taking it into consideration. Thinking about it, i may have to figure out a way to run them side by side like yoursl setup and just use super long hoses on the oposite end. I dont want 1 side to lean out though from the extra hose that will need to he run.... Oh the dilemmas of nitrous lol.

Any updates?

http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/ha...y-emoticon.gif
Really wanting to see tapping into fuel lines...mounting of solenoids, tps switch...get with it man, you gotta be moved into the new pad by now :D Have you had a chance to play with the car lately?

Sorry for no updates all. I've actually been busy installing new toys oriented towards Autocross lol. I only have about 1 day a week and 6 hours on that 1 day to work on my car so I've basically spent time installing my new rear end, new bushings for trans and the diff, new brake pads/rotors, adjusted my suspension and increasing my springs rates, new Oddyssey PC680 battery relocated to the trunk and some other things here and there.

But as for the kit, the fuel line is super easy to tap into with the Dynotune kit. There's a plate that goes between the FPR and taps fuel straight from there. 2 bolts and its tapped! I'll snap pics of it. Mounted the solenoids in our engine bay is a pain in the a$$!!! Probabably one of the most irritating things as I wanna keep everything looking symmetrical. I don't wanna jam it all on 1 side but I may have to....Next couple weeks I'll have more downtime to actually jam on this project. Kits taking longer then expected but what clean install project doesn't? :roflpuke2:

OK you have had a couple weeks....give us updates or this will be another boring nitrous install...lol. Can't leave us juice heads hanging.

I don't think he has his Z anymore :wtf2:

^^^really?....God damn it...this thread ended like stopping a piss midstream!

Chris had an accident. I think his Z is totalled. You can read the thread "bye-bye family" for more info.

Sorry Chris. Hope things work out.

Wow. That sucks.