But a POS for a daily and send him your cat asap! Lol

Sent with TapAhoe

Yeah, Like right meow!


:bowrofl: :p

There is also a BP FB page if any of you want to follow some of the other stuff going on:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Boost...36303179791462

Wait is BP looking for a 7AT to build a kit????? Or this has already been discussed and finalized?

Here's a sound clip of the Boosted Performance kit for you guys.

LMAO I need to stop using my phone to post on the forum!

How are the BP kit owners combating low gear traction issues? Anyone setup boost by speed with an EBC? One of my techs at work set it up on his neon(dont laugh 550 whp sub 11 seconds) and swears by it say it makes it more manageable on the street as well.

Not a BP owner, but you're always going to have traction issues in first and second regardless of boost control. You'll never see a lot of boost in first anyway. Even at wastegate pressure in second, you're going to blow off the tires. Boost by gear is great, but these cars have issues hooking up even before you add 150+ whp.

Get your camber as close to 0* as you can, and get good sticky tires. You shold be fine by doing those two things.

I have 450whp/420ft/tq on my DE. Camber is as low as I can get it with the ride height I have, and a set of 295/35/19" AD08's seems to be doing the job just fine. Pavement and ambient temperature will also be a big factor. Hot day and hot roads will grip much better than cooler day/pavement.

Boost by speed won't work for a BP kit. I can break the back tires loose on waste gate pressure at 80 mph with the base map.

Maybe I miss spoke, I understand NA like traction is out the window, but like Sasha was saying there are ways to aid your traction, that's what I am after. Im not looking for it to cure the traction issues but I cant imagine if you run lowest wastegate boost pressure and gradually up the boost with speed that it wouldn't help? I want tire shredding abilities but sometimes Ill want to hook and go. What tires and suspension are you running m3ch?

If my memory is correct, the lowest spring you can put in those wastegates is 4-4.5 psi or so. That's plenty to blow off the tires all through second unless it's hot out.

Controlling boost doesn't seem like the way to go. I'm hoping ecutek will come through with the traction control feature they mentioned. That or a race logic unit.

:roflpuke2::roflpuke2::roflpuke2:

wish in one hand, **** in the other and all. It would be nice, but I'd file that one away under the "Unrealistic hopes" category.

Sure, and I understand what you are going for, I'm just saying boost by speed isn't necessarily the correct way to go about it because the car builds so much torque, so quickly that you would have to limit everything below 100 MPH.

For reference I'm running 7.25 PSI wastegate pressure. You can theoretically run an EBC at double so on a stock block BP kit, you don't really want to run less than a 6PSI spring. Even at 6 PSI, you will need some sort of control, rather it be human or electronic. It can actually be managed pretty well with the throttle once you get used to the car. The kit has a great feel to it and the boost is very predictable.

My setup is far from ideal at the moment. Hankook V12s 305/30/19 at ~-2.5 degrees camber. The plan is to get a camber kit ordered and stuff some 335 RE-11's in there with as little camber as possible. But I'm definitely interested in any other suggestions.

What is your basis for not 'wanting' to run less than 6psi? You got some real data/reasoning to back that up?

My tuner is going to install my manual boost controller and requested that I install the minimum spring that comes with the WG and he'll adjust/tune from there to a level he feels comfortable with. Chuck33079 and I are in agreement that they minimum spring from the table Sasha posted in another thread was around 4.5psi. Is there an actual issue with running that low a spring or is that just your opinion?

My plan was to run that minimum spring for a few weeks, maybe a month or so, on the base map until my tuner can squeeze me in.

Maybe Sasha can chime in, will I have an issue with that?

Depending on your setup/tune you are going to want somewhere between 11-12 PSI for full power. Your waste gate will always determine your minimum pressure. The boost controller will only let you run up to a 100% duty cycle. So for a 4.5 PSI wastegate spring, you would only be able to run 9 PSI max (100% duty cycle) whereas a 6 PSI wastegate spring you could run up to 12 PSI.

Ninja edit: Just realized you are going to run a manual boost controller. Disregard all of that ^ it doesn't apply to you.

Yeah I might go the electronic in the future but my build list is already expensive enough. Manual is good enough for me until I get comfortable with the new setup.

Now here's to hoping it won't be useless power considering us G guys are bascially limited to 285 out back.

The more I think I guess this is what I am ultimately getting at, I rather have a manageable 450 ish that over 500 and it be totally useless.

My tuner isn't really comfortable with anything over 400 ft/lbs on a DJ for this drive train. So basically my instructions to him are I want a torque curve like a table top (at ~400ft/lbs) and WHP will fall out where it does.

In my current mod state NA 2nd gear is basically worthless in anything but a straight line now and I've learned to drive around it. I'm sure this too will be a learning process.

As per instructions, the 7psi springs are a great start with this kit. From there you can bring the boost up to a desired level with a boost controller. Usually around 10psi.

I would not start with a 4psi spring unless you want to run a max of 6psi with a boost controller.

I have said it many times, each tuner has his own "idea" of what a safe level is for each platform. On the VQ37vhr this will range from 400ft/tq at the wheel all the way to 480ft/tq at the wheels. TQ is always the indicator of how comfortable the tuner is, not so much the HP.

Another thing worth noting is that you can have two identical cars, identical turbo kits, fuel, boost pressure...ect. Same dyno's but different tuners. Each graph will be different though, because timing will play a huge role in what your tq/hp look like. The dyno graph is almost like the signature of your tuner, not so much the kit.

1 less kit available ;)

Another dumb question..say I got the car tuned at say 10 or 11 psi would the ecu be able to properly adjust if I decided to cut the boost down to say 6 or 7 psi? Or would I need the tuner too make 2 maps?

And people stop buying these kits so fast I only need a,few more days to get the funds together!

:rock:

thats exactly what i look like right now:icon18:

You just get one tune. Waste gate springs ~7psi is my low boost, then the boost controller, when active, bumps it up to ~11psi both using the same tune/map.

Where you might want a couple maps is for different grades of fuel. I have one for 93/4 octane and one for 91 octane.

I'm in the same boat as you. I would lose traction in 3rd at 70mph, sometimes even in 4th!! The suspension on these cars are not meant to hook up with all this power.

I have an HKS EVC6 and did not wire it to run by speed/rpm. I find it useless as some members have mentioned. However, I do plan on upgrading the LSD to an OS Giken one with a LESS aggressive final drive gear (3.3:1) so as to, maybe be able to use the 2nd gear. Toyo R888's and a more neutral camber setting will probably help quite a lot also.

Thank you for the order. :tiphat:


2 KITS LEFT





For those looking to purchase down the road, I will be building another batch of six late fall. I still plan on taking orders in the meantime, but these will be built as the orders comes in.

Would this not make your car run rich when boosting at a lower pressure? If it were tuned at 11 psi and you drove it at 7psi? I was always under the assumption that you would need 2 separate maps for a situation such as that.

You should have 2 maps. Not one. I have an 8lb map and 12 map with Uprev.

Correct. Unless something has changed recently.

If the map is tuned for 11psi, you can run the car at 8psi all day and the a/f ratios will be fine, but not the other way around. MAF sensor voltage is scaled for this.

It would probably just run rich on the lower boost I suspect, but if you have boost control and then pay the tuner to do 2 maps, I guess that's your best bet...lowest grade fuel in PA is 92, sunoco has 91, but why buy 91 when they have 93!

If the maf scaling is right, I don't know why it would run a different AFR at lower boost.

I dont know crap about tuning!

Correct my car is tune the same way




The car will not run rich.

You learn something errday.


Jk. I don't really talk like that lol.

Out of the 2 kits left, one is pending.

So, as of right now, there is ONE KIT LEFT.

That's great news Sasha! Hope these keep flying out your door!