Call these guys and order some straighteners cut to the diameter of the inlet pipes. Install (with epoxy) directly before the MAFs. That flutter will go away.

Honeycomb for MAF

oh wow, you might just be on to something there!! And it's cheap...now just to figure out the thickness to use???

the honeycomb may be the ticket to get the air going through the tubes right but I still believe blocking direct air especially to the lower filter is the real fix otherwise you will always have the lower MAF reading higher than the upper even though it will always be the same going into the engine.

Guys in blow-through setups like to use the higher ratios, but I think 5:1 should be fine for what you guys are trying to do.

I plan on putting some 4:1 or 5:1's in my intakes when I rebuild them. Should clean up the idle.

IAT sensor is only utilized on one bank anyway, and the S/C itself equalizes the real temps... So yeah. Non-issue.

Oh, and you'll probably need a re-tune, because likely your tuner has used fuel compensation to get around weird readings from your MAF sensors, so they'll need to kinda start over once you stabilize MAF response.

Actually, when we were doing some data logging....he mentioned that all the AFR settings were correct, it just gets all wacky when its fluctuating up and down. But when it is not fluctuating, all settings are where they need to be. Now i just need to measure the inlets....ugh, have to take off bumper :(

I have to wonder if this is correct. What I have been told by my tuner and by Stillen is that no matter that the airflow is completely changed/stabilized by the tubine before it hits the TBA, the engine perceives a problem at the MAF and is trying to adjust air/fuel balance to solve a problem that is only a matter of perception (rather than reality).

Sounds like a philosophical/existential debate!

But I agree that honeycombs or extended intake tubes would probably help. I prefer the Honeycomb option theoretically if only because the added weight at the nose of this already nose heavy car would be less.
BTW I am currently in communication with Stillen on this issue and they are working on it as we speak.

Gotta take off the d*mn bumper to make any changes anyway. Please post your tube ID/OD dimensions when you have them.

i'm terrible with acronyms...ID/OD? But yes, i'll post them...just not sure when i'll get around to taking bumper off.

IAT is definitely used in closed loop mode, but it's only one of several factors used.

Only one bank is reported to the OBD CAN system, that can be confirmed with a hair dryer and any logging tool. That said, maybe the ECU still sees both readings and uses them. I can't say for certain.

In the end, the temperature differential between the two sensors mounted inches apart can't be so large as to matter, in a forced induction setup. And the car would soon learn around any potential issue at the time of flashing. That's what learned fuel trim is for, after all.

:)

Inside and Outside Diameter.

Your MAF may report different voltages after the air has been straightened, though, and those voltages may change differently through the RPM range.

That's why he would have used fuel compensation to even it out.

Or it may be identical, who can say without trying? haha

Edit:
To clarify what I mean, lets say that @ WOT you start at 1.2v around 2k RPM and by redline you're reading 4.6v.

Then you straighten out your airflow and now you're getting 0.9v at 2k RPM and by redline you're at 4.8v. Because the turbulence compressed your delta V over the rev range, and now that the turbulence isn't there, you're getting accurate flow numbers.

But because your tuner set up your fueling tables based on that 1.2v-4.6v spread, you've got inaccurate fueling data throughout the rev range. See what I mean?

(this is all theoretical, numbers picked at random)

also, if you are communicating with Stillen...can you see if they have the dimensions off hand?

Thanks for answering for me.

Okay, here it is. My SC is on the table, wiating for boost pulley.
2 Inlets on the Y:
Inside Dia 2 1/2
Outside Dia 2 7/8

Single outlet on the Y
Inside Dia 2 5/8
Outside Dia 3

Reducer Boot from Y to SC intake:
2 1/2

SC outlet:
Inside 2 3/8
Outside 2 7/8

Intake tube from SC to Throttle Bodies:
From SC side 2 5/8
From (2) throttle body side 2 1/2

Of note, the center of the MAF Mount is 2 inched from the K&N filter. If you need more let me know! Hope this helps..

Lotta extra work goin on here!

Yes, Yes, we know how you feel, gloating isn't very nice.

So order a couple of 63.5/64MM air straighteners, probably 5:1 or 7:1 and put them just inside the inlet pipe before the MAF's and I bet your drivability issues go away.

Thanks for the info I decided to contact saxonpc the website for the honeycomb to get their advice on the right size to order. I will let the forum know when I have a response.

AEM ETI Intake System
 

Just noticed this photo of the AEM ETI Intake System. It has the same proximity of the MAF socket to the airfilter as in our Stillen SC kit.
Gotta wonder if any one with the ETI Intake System can comment on whether it has the same troubles as in our kit.

i've already ordered a pair...64mm 3/4 inch thick. They should be arriving this week.

No issues with mine AEM.

Regarding my drive-ability issues as previously described. Stillen believes they have a fix based on the symptoms and the Cipher file I sent. They are working on it and say they should have a solution shortly - more later.
Osiris - let us know how the air straighteners work out.

Someones modified his Y pipe.. Its got 2 flat plates welded into the intake side. Looks like who ever had the kit before him had issues too, and tried to fix them. I don't think he will use the air straighteners.

Man all that work pulling the front apart.. Damn..

I bought my kit new, so it came like that. I just never saw it because the dealer installed it originally

so, basically i couldn't install them because....well, just look at the above pic.

Okay, So that must be part of Stillen's solution to the problem in addition to the shield.
I would have been seriously irritated/pissed off, as I am sure you were - I can only imagine the silent (or otherwise) stream of invective that discovery must have caused.
Unfortunately there were no available pics of the intake tube ends like the one you posted. Hopefully you can label it so an image search for "Stillen supercharger CAI" can find it.
Stillen's proposed solution has to do with air recirculation in the emissions control system. It won't help with California street legal cars but it might benefit you as you live in Florida. They are testing it now, I hope to hear from them this week.

Not all of them have this....Nut_N_Much's Y pipe is completely open, no lateral fins like on mine.

So...wtf?
What year did you order your kit?

Nut_N_Much -
So, is your kit brand new? If the kit is just out of the car for mods, what year did you order it

ordered mine early 2010.

Mine was used and sat around for 2 years on some guys shelf.. It is a V3 SC the older ones are V2's. My Y pip is completely open.

I have looked at some cast aluminum 8 inch tubing. I was thinking of chopping it in half and welding 4 inches to each side to extend the intake side of the Y. KellyeFields made a nice shield our of some flat sheet Aluminum, I might do that to if the factory shield isn't working. Will bring it to the Dyno.. I cut out the fins inside of the front bumper. I got nice access into the that area.

well, i could probably get them to you sometime next weekend if you want the honeycombs i have

Matt,
Sent you PM :tiphat:

Do you intend to use the honeycombs? Even the Stillen engineer I spoke with thought it might be a good idea. Maybe Osiris will sell you his. If the Stillen engineer is right my problem may have nothing to do with the Y-pipe intake. And you may not have any issues at all. Stillen has been selling these kits for years and there are not a ton of people chiming in here.

Just thought I would mention that other than this truly minor drive-ability issue the kit truly has been awesome - totally changed the character of the car.

I would like too, but I am lacking funds until I get some UMA Fenders sold.

Well I got my kit installed last week and picked the car up on Thursday. Went on about a 500 mile round trip and the car and kit performed flawless. I dyno'd in at 413 WHP which is about what I was looking for. I instructed my tuner to set it up extra reliable.
I have plenty of clean power and the drivability is excellent. At normal cruising speeds you would never know any work had been done on the car. I cruised at speed ranges from 60 - 70 and 80 for long periods at a time. And of course slammed it down many times as well. I feel like I put the car through a pretty good series of driving conditions and she never missed a beat. Like a said, it drove flawless.
I have to give credit to J Tran Studios in Houston Texas. Ron did a spectacular install and of course, Johnny is the master of tuning our cars. Taking it back in this Saturday to change the SC oil and I should be good to for long term, except that I will be back in before long for meth injection. Mainly for engine safety reasons.
I will post some pictures tomorrow. I forgot to take them today.

Here is my setup:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8108/8...0f346485_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8508/8...a0c1fd6e_c.jpg

That's a beautiful setup!