Congrats!! You will enjoy it!! :tiphat:

I think my clutch is on the way out also... Have not had any problems with the CSC and I drive it like I stole it every time I start the car.

After 20k on the stock clutch it seems to be going.

Thats not bad man. Im leaving the stock in till I burn it up.

I generally do not keep my cars much past 100K miles, but I have had a single clutch go to 117K (without signs of wear) at which point I sold the car (1998 BMW 540i).
I have seen people do things with a clutch that make it clear they have no idea how a clutch works. A friend of my parents would go through the clutch in her 320 very 10k miles.
I have no doubt that the massive increase in the power of our FI Z's puts the stock clutch under increased stress, however, I also believe that the life span of a clutch will be most determined by how well you use the clutch (clutch spends as little time as possible "partially" engaged, and as much time as possible either all the way "in", or all the way "out"), rather than how hard you push the car.
So, my Z now has 3200 miles 1500 of which are with the Stillen SC. I am very curious to see how many miles I can get out of the stock clutch. I will not be babying the car. I drive it with traction control off most of the time and am continually amazed at how easy it is to leave rubber on the pavement, without actually trying to do so.

My philosophy has always been "clutch out whenever possible" just because putting wear on a TOB (or CSC in our case.. ugh) for no reason by holding in the clutch doesn't make any sense.

I think the #1 thing that people do to wear out clutches prematurely is engine braking improperly.

Rather than double clutching to match engine revs/input shaft to the lower gear, they just slap it in gear and ease the clutch out, forcing the friction material to bear the brunt of bringing engine revs to where they should be...

I have friends that do this to their cars all the time and I shudder every single time.

No argument clutch out is better than clutch in. Best place for your left foot when you are not actually changing gears is on the dead pedal.
Clutch wear comes from clutch plates sliding against each other. I have seen people stop on a hill at a red light and keep the clutch half engaged with a little bit of throttle to prevent the car from rolling backwards. They seemingly have no clue as to the damage they are doing.

i have the kit, and it is reliable as long as you dont kill it all the time, i am wondering what the best tune is for it, i have the tune from stillen on it and it runs very rich. so i was wondering if a better tune would deminish that and get rid of the check engine light? and since stillen is very conservative, if a good tune would feel faster?
Thanks guys!

Not to bad mouth Stillen, but all canned tunes are pretty meh to bad, GTM's canned tunes are not very good either. They are a means to get the car running, very conservative to protect the kit/engine, and that is about it.
So for a better tune, I would look locally at dyno tuners in your area (you are looking for uprev tuners). They can usually fix anything software wise wrong, so running lean, CEL, etc. are able to be improved upon along with giving the setup a little more kick while still protecting it.

The tune on my car is very conservative and I gained a ton of power over the Stillen tune. My car didn't come to life until it had a custom tune.

are you running rich with it? how much WHP and WTQ do you have? and if you dont mind sharing how much you paid for the custom tune?

It was around $500. It's 406 whp and 302 tq but on the Stillen tune it I think it was 340whp. The car not only makes more power it just runs better in every way. I hated it on the Stillen tune and was mad as hell at one point but UpRev tuning fixed all of the problems. On the track the thing is a blast now!


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$300 of that $500 was for the UpRev license.

My car is a little rich now but nothing like the caned tune. On the Stillen tune it was ridiculously rich. It blew giant smoke rings on the dyno with the caned tune.

Looked like mine, My car on the Stillen tune made 342WHP( I made 300 WHP 233WTRQ bolted) Custom tune made 412WHP and 300WTRQ

thanks bud! and i feel like you would get better gas milage not running as rich correct?

Only if you can stay out of the gas! You didn't boost your car for milage but if you are married it might be a good sell.


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this is true! but better gas milage would be nice at about $5.99 per gallon over here!

I have a Stillen supercharger and love it! Not the tune tho. Got a custom tune from r /t tuning in Lansdale PA and got 423 at the wheels and 325tq. I have the 9lb pulley tho and that's on 10 lbs of boost. Also have every other part that Stillen makes for a 370z including test pipes and no cats because I live in West Virginia where we have no emissions so no worries there

did you go out to Pennsylvania for the tune or can they send you a custom tune in the mail? :S

I have 415whp and 310wtq at 86 degrees dyno. I get about 15.5 mpg in the city. Custom tune by Zfever in Tampa.

I would advise not to do a mail tune or etune as this will basically be the same as the stillen tune, maybe marginally better.
Your two best options are to find a tuner locally or close enough by you are ok with traveling and leaving your car for the day. The second option is to have a tuner remote to your car, so basically you need to get your car on a dyno and a tuner can remote into a laptop and make the adjustments as needed while the shop runs the car on the dyno locally.

I went to PA for the tune and it added 50 hp at the wheels more than the Stillen tune. Definitely worth the 3 hour drive

Just runs
 

I have 13K on my 2013 Z now and roughly 10K on the Stillen SC. My dyno numbers are available earlier in this thread.
Gotta say despite a rough start the last 9k miles have been essentially seamless.
The car just runs, as reliable as ever, ridiculously powerful, loads of fun. Very happy with the upgrade.

Can you stop with the pics LOL , man!! Looks AWSOME Diego !

Ive had my kit for a month, LOVE it. I dont know how you guys are getting such terrible gas mileage. I get 20-23 city and 48-50 on highway. I dont boost much only when I find someone stupid.

Are you basing your mpg off the readout on the gauge cluster? It's not accurate after you change injectors.

I am actually thinking about visiting them next weekend. Would love to hear more feedback from your previous experience.

:icon18:

Definitely :shakes head:

What kind of exhaust do you have with the SC?

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What kind of exhaust for the SC?

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The Stillen kit out of the box is designed to go with a stock exhaust....you can use and aftermarket 2.5 inch exhaust with TP's or HFC's(you brand of choice) but it would require a custom tune.....these kits are known to run better on a custom tune.

Can someone explain this to me, my Water to Air kit only put down 312 Wheel torque.

After looking at my dyno sheet, after the A2A kit, I made 356 wheel torque.

Same dyno, same tuners, Ecutek instead of uprev.

I'd chalk that up to cooler intake temps and removing the intercooler from the manifold. Whether that heat exchanger is efficient or not, it's a big restriction compared to an empty intake manifold.

Sub'd......Is ur A2A kit the one u had made by Sasha @ BP? Any increase in HP? Change in timing?

I'm not sure why but that doesn't surprise me. My car is make over 60 less whp but it's making more torque than it ever has.


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Since thread is back, no I'm doing the math. I barely got into the gas.

:inoutroflpuke:Lol. That's funny. Bro, if your getting 50mpg then never ever ever sell your car. If you do I'll buy it so I can sell it back to nissan so they can copy the v6 that got 50mpg. Then ill buy Nissan stock.

Lol at 50mpg

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Lot's of great information in this thread. Thank you all

I thought this would be a good place to add my two cents. I just got my car back about a week ago after having the Stillen supercharger rebuilt.

About a month ago I started noticing the supercharger was getting louder. Since I had changed the oil about 1500 miles back I knew that wasn't the issue. But I checked everything anyway. Oil was clean and level was spot on. Belts looked okay. The pulleys didn't seem to have any wobble, etc. I wrote it off to my OCD and my imagination until about a week later where it went from slightly louder to what sounded like metal rubbing against metal. I determined the noise was coming from the supercharger itself and not the pulleys. :eekdance:

I parked it and took it to the shop that had installed the kit a few years prior. They confirmed by suspicions. They suspected one or more of the internal bearings were going bad. I had researched rebuild options before taking it to the local shop and their rebuild estimates where higher so I had them send the supercharger to 928 Motorsports to do the job. I called 928 beforehand and found them very knowledgeable. I did their standard rebuild. Their 1 week turn around time and rebuild cost were spot on. No surprises. I got the car back a little over a week ago and it runs like new. It may be my imagination but the supercharger feels better than new. I swear it's pumping out more power. But I haven't dynoed it to confirm.
928 Motorsports - Vortech® Supercharger Rebuild Services

Relevant specs of my kit:
46K on the car. 44K on the supercharger kit.
Oil changed every 5k.
Stock kit apart from 775cc FIC injectors.
Making about 420HP and 330TQ at the wheels.
Daily driven, never seen a track.