The geometry is the same, but the angle at which the three bolt flanges sit is a bit different. It is best to get the flanges welded on the car that has the DE aftermarket headers.

Is it possible to get everything 100% done except for the welds, and trailer it to get welded?

Which way does the oil flow through everything? Is the scavenge pump, turbo and oil cooler all after the oil filter?

Basically wondering what i need to try to flush or replace if I have metal flakes in the oil pan.

Get a magnetic drain plug, and the magnetic filter clasp that goes around the filter

Already have a greddy magnetic plug. It caught some of the ring debris.

However, most of it is aluminum. Magnets wont help.

If you guys are worried about oil flow/supply you should buy one of these gtm oil pans I'm selling ;)

Give you a good deal!!

http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...il-cooler.html

So from what I can tell is that my oil cooler should be ok since oil going to it first passes through the filter.

However, The turbo gets fed straight from the pan, then goes into turbo catch tray, then the scavenge pump sucks it up and spits it directly back into the oil pan. This means this is not getting filtered.

Could I add a relocation plate after the scavenge pump and run 2 oil filters?

Do the "wings" on those pans interfere with the location of the turbo and plumbing on a BP kit? There's not a lot of extra room next to the OEM oil pan.

I don't think there should be a problem from looking at the pictures it should work just fine.

I'm just curious since the air filter and a charge pipe look like they're in the same general area as the widest part of the GTM pan. How much wider is it than the OEM pan?

Not home to measure it but would say about 3 to 4 inches more on each side

Isn't the air filter in the back?

Would this work if I wanted to filter the oil after the scavenge pump?

Just a pic of the under body to show how low the pipes hang. Some parts of the pipes hang down a little lower than everything else.

http://oi62.tinypic.com/4gg6zb.jpg

I see that there are more than a few pm's. I will be back from vacation next week and will get back to all of you. My Wi-Fi here is very limited.

So, I had a defective braided oil line. It literally blew in the middle of one of the lines and was leaking oil. I could not figure out what could of caused this as this is not normal. Car is sitting at Project X Customs right now getting fixed.

I will try to get pictures up later.

Has anyone had an issue with burning oil? Mine has been letting out a puff of smoke after you let off the gas from heavy boosting. It has been doing that from the very beginning. Im sure I did something wrong lol, but I was just wondering if anyone else has the issue. It doesn't smoke at all under normal driving. I haven't kept a close eye on my oil level, but every time I do check it its fine.

Boosted Performance single turbo build
 

Are you sure it's oil? A lot of times it's un burnt fuel if the tune is on the richer side.

Well.... im pretty sure its oil. Its white smoke. Ill have to get a friend to follow me so he can smell it lol.

I always thought it was fuel=black, oil=blue and white =coolant. Have someone behind you check it. Are you on the base tune?

Yeah Ill probably get a friend to follow me with the intent of smelling my exhaust lol. No, I have a tune from Z1. Under WOT my AFR is about 11.2-11.5ish.

Im not really worried about anything, its just annoying because I can see the smoke in my mirror after I let off. It makes my car look like a smoking turd.

:iagree: with this! I had worries back in my Z32 days after a bunch of mods. I was getting black smoke too. But it all went away once I had it tuned :tup:

Mine blows a little smoke after letting the throttle off after WOT.

this single turbo kits seems perrrrrrrrrrrrrrfect for my needs. I'm worried about blowing my engine up with twin turbo and too much boost on a stock block. Single should suit my needs.


so many pages to go through but what is the final price? if someone could be nice enough to tell me :D

$7,150 for the turn key according to his signature.

Not including the highly recommended supporting mods. I can roughly guess about $10,000, on the low end, not including install cost.

Single, twin, tri-turbo, supercharger doesnt make a difference when it comes to blowing up your engine. get a good tuner and tune it on the safe side and your chances of blowing your engine is a lot lower. Guys on here have blown their engines with superchargers too.

If you install your own clutch, gauges, boost controller and do your own custom mounts, I would expect around 11-12k. I was a bit over 12k doing my own install and having someone else install the clutch/flywheel and making a custom gauge mount.

Same boat

How much does the single turbo kit run?

Turn key is $7300. Everything is in the very first post of this this thread....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Go check out the BP V2.0 Round 3 thread in this section for all details.

So... just noticed something while I was underneath the car. How are you guys doing transmission oil changes? the manifold makes the clearances really right to get to the fill port.

I did mine before I put the kit on. I'm assuming you will need to pull the manifold to do it, which really isn't that bad after you've done it a few times lol.

^^this^^

I was hoping for a different answer lol I think I'm gonna install Jiffy Tite quick release fittings when I do.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

There should be enough room to get a round end allen-wrench in there to loosen the fill bolt....

http://images.wisegeek.com/ball-end-allen-wrenches.jpg

A few customers have had success using these.

My crossover piping is basically hard up against the fill plug. Only way to change is to drop the piping.

Completely forgot about ball allens thanks sasha!

That could be from the variances between the V1 and V2 manifold

Where do I buy/\?