Achieving 600 RWHP
 

Hey everyone,

Well I have posted similar threads before but am hearing mixed things from everyone I talk to. My goal is to try and get the most out of my Stage 2 GTM tt kit without causing any future problems.

The parts so far I have coming in are...

GTM stage 2 tt kit
Os giken twin disc clutch
34 row oil cooler

I already Greddy ti-c exhaust so i dont need that.

So what is left to do to acieve the 600-650 whp daily driven..

What needs to be done to the motor?

thanks :tiphat:

To do so reliably you might want to build the block, im not sure of anyone on here who has one to that power level and DD'd it...

The thing to remember is to play you have to pay.

i doubt u can reach that and stay in the safe side for along period of time , so its better to be safe than sorry , 500 to 550whp is the most famous numbers around from my small knowldge .

650whp and daily driver really can't be used in the same sentence...

it might be your daily driver, but it wont last very long, OR you'll spend thousands in repairs.

3" down pipes
Cooling - will not know what else until you probably finish and see what is being pushed (radiator, power steering, etc.)
System monitor/control - HKS camp, boost controller, etc.
Built motor - you may not have to go crazy here but certain parts are going to need to be upgraded
Tune - This here will make or break you being able to daily drive the car

Built motor and cooling mods in every aspect. Maybe even a dual fuel pump setup also. More than 500 WHP is a waste IMO.

No doubt, 600-650 HP on a stock block is asking for future problems, and probably in the not too distant future. I would recommend a new radiator, built bottom end, and return fuel system at a minimum in addition to what you have listed.

Even with the above, you always need to be prepared for potential issues on a car putting down twice the factory HP. Things break (axles, diffs, trans, etc.) when you start to do that. You really should have a second car, or you will regret it later. Not trying to talk you out of it as many people have done similar builds on Z's in the past, but it sounds like you need a better idea of what you are getting into.

You can get by with a single fuel pump (check out the new Deatchworks pump), but you also need to consider a better form of EMS than an UpRev tune with that kind of power (HKS, Haltech, etc.) and full set of gauges (wideband A/F, boost, oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure at a minimum).

At this point you ordered the wrong turbos if you want a constant 650whp. They are pretty much maxed out not too much after the 600whp mark. Also your fuel system is maxed out at around 600whp. I would just be happy with 560whp and stg2 and go on with life. Daily driven at those power levels I would say new pistons and rods. A short block is not needed to get there, though I would recommend it for daily driven z's.

The cheaper option is to get a boost controller and daily drive the car at a lower PSI levels and boost up to 12psi with a push of a button when you want 560+ hp. This will save you from needing a built block for a long time. You paid for the stock internals, might as well get some use out of them.

Here is a G37 with stage 2 turbos, 3" down pipes with external WG's and 3" exhaust. Check out the link below. He is making 611whp on 100 oct fuel.

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...p-474rwtq.html

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...PSI-93-OCT.jpg

:ugh2:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e3...0/IMG_4023.jpg




Lol, but you are right on the Z platform for sure. I honestly think that if you want 650+ at the wheels, switching platforms makes the most sense.

Yes, let me change the power goals. 550-600 whp is plenty for what I am looking for. I really just want to be able to get the most out of my stage 2 kit while not pushing it to its very limits.

Do you need this power everyday?
I agree with JB, get a good boost controller and run a lower amount of boost daily and when you want more then turn the knob up.

Think about tires also. You will eat threw them fast. Fast car needs good brakes also.

What happen to the OP anyways?

What are you looking for this power to do for you & where? Is this for the Track/Street/personal cocktail brag numbers?

400-500 has been solid bolt on power on an HR motor so I'm sure that 450-550 should be cake on a VHR motor. That's along with the supporting mods.

You can turn the boost all the way down as far as what the stock boost spring is. So if you have a 6psi spring then you can turn your boost all the way down to 6psi, no lower. So driving on the daily at 440-460whp but when that Vett or Porsche pulls up, BAM! hit the boost! :happydance:

This kid is going to blow the motor up or kill himself smh.

haha i was thinking of you and your little s2k as i was writing that....

That is a lot of power for a stock motor.I wouldn't go over 550 ,and that's pushing it on a stock bottom end with 11:1 compression.

Op have you ever driven of owned a car with that much power ?

I am not looking to get this power reliably on the stock motor. All's I was wondering what would have to be done to to support 550-600 whp, But i have gotten my question answered.. Thanks all

north of 20k will get you 550-600 reliably

Lets not hate on the guy, we are here to help ;)

Hmm dual fuel pumps. How exactly does that system work? are they routed on opposite sides of the fuel tank? PM me Spohn

Remember you can only have 2 of 3. Cheap, reliable, and fast. As a daily driver 600whp seems extreme, but with a boost controller you can always tone it down. What I think the OP meant is that he wants daily drive-ability with the option to turn up the juice at a moments notice.

Nonetheless, 600whp without race gas on stock internals is asking for it. Drop in low compression pistons (may or may not require a bore/hone others can chime in on this) and the GTM Stage II will get you there. The turbos are up to the task but the internals are not.

Build list to get 650 wheel hp reliably

AAM twin turbo upgraded with turbo smart actuators and blow off
AAM exhaust

Built motor - wiseco 9:1 / h rods / etc
Built trans - I have an auto and level 10 did it
Built rear

Fuel rails cj
Fuel return kit cj
Upgraded fuel pump
6AN fuel lines
Upgraded injectors 1000cc

Upgraded suspension bushings
Upgraded coilovers bc racing
19R30 335 tires on the back

Custom front bumper from Rowen - this allows for openings for coolers
Oil cooler on driver side 10 inch x 12 inch 10AN
Trans cooler on passenger side 10 inch x 12 inch 10AN
Upgraded radiator - CSF for manual triple pass since I have separate trans cooler

Cut and welded frame so we didn't have to hammer the frame to for AAM turbo kit

Recaro seats

600whp on E85 is about the common go too, these day for stock engines. I ran mine daily at 700whp for about 15k miles. Ended up making more power later and still never ran into issues.

Quality of install and tuning needs to be perfect to accomplish this on the stock engine. No need for cooling mods other then oil cooler like you mentioned.

Fuel system CJM S1.SE, set of ID 1000's and a aero 340 pump (can do a walbro 450, but not needed)

Clutch and exhaust listed will work as listed.

From watching these cars for many years, people over build from my experience.
The stock engines are very strong when setup properly. I also tell people if your goal is under 650whp the stock engine will be more reliable is some ways.

Good luck

Revived a thread from the dead. Good lord. Many things have changed since 2011 to now as far as what you can and can't do.

So that this isnt re-resurrected...

Any single turbo, twin turbo kit available on the market will get you 600whp.

AAM stage 1
Fast intentions stage 1 or 2
BP single turbo kit
Soho single turbo kit
Switchback racing single turbo kit

For superchargers only one kit will do it out of the box. RJM Whipple Stage 1 with upgraded pulley. comes with your fuel supporting mods right out of the box.

For supporting mods:
Fuel Pump upgraded (Single 485 will suffice)
ID 1050/x or larger
twin disk clutch of your choice for manual
Billet flexplate (Fast Intentions), Triple disk Tq Converter (RJM) for auto
A built tranny by your choice of company (Level10 has not faired well with this power level)

TopgunZ's will with pulley upgrade.

:iagree: on E85 that is

Still no dyno sheets supporting that claim

Forget the dyno sheets. I’ve been hearing that the only thing the RJM kit has been doing is blowing people’s engines.

Lot of variables. Could be tune related, poor engine maintenance, or miscellaneous parts missing from the kit causing the engine to grenade. So who really knows, I know that they don’t have or I haven’t seen any rjm blowers on the street or track since it’s Debut.

Why mess around...get a BP turbo kit :)

7psi on E85, with the new 64mm turbo on the heartbreaker dyno:

https://i137.photobucket.com/albums/...psnmwpe6go.jpg

The only blown motor came from an individual who I will not name publicly that raced the car on a partial tune. That’s right they added boost ignored several warning over and over. I even have video of said person beating on the car without being tuned properly.

Their motor blowing is of their own fault... said person was making 600whp+ on a stock block and over 500ftlbs...

You should get your facts straight... nothing like talking out your butt.. before making claims you should fact check.

Several cars have them running without issue.

1 in NC
2 in Tampa
3 up north

And several being built as we speak.

So out of these, no dynos? No customer here or on FB talking about it?

We're just interested...it's been 2 years we have waited for a dyno, video, or something.

You would think if someone was stomping this kit around they would want to brag about it..at least a little bit.

LOL, this behavior is normal for folks of today. Some people can break an anvil. Stupid is as Stupid does.

Not what I heard - I heard directly from a customer whose motor blew that it was due to him being sent a prototype pulley which had not been properly tested yet. Doesn’t sound very turnkey or finished....

Regardless I hope they work out the kinks and it is a viable option for anyone wanting to go forced induction. I’ll patiently wait for other reviews.

I’ve heard that.

I can. :D

Did the customer tell you that he switched tuners mid tune? Because the tuner who was tuning his car remotely said it wasn’t ready... then randomly I got a text from him stating how much power he made. I asked how did he know... since Martin of RS Enthralpy was tuning his car remotely didn’t even know he was on the dyno!!! When your tuner doesn’t know your dynoing that’s not a good sign.

After being told what he was making I told him he was on borrowed time if he continues to beat on the car. He was making more tq than the stock block can take! He proceeded to race Modded GTRs and beat on the car. Eventually the motor let go... why? Because he switched tuners and didn’t tell anyone. He was running e85 and beating on the car. He was making over 500ftlbs by 2600rpm!!!

Ask any VQ tuner the stock block is only good for 500-550ftlbs of tq and for a limited time. When your tq is over 500ftlbs throughout the powerband no your motor isn’t going to last.

He was given a 14psi pulley and it was told to him that’s what he was getting. It was the exact pulley from zdayz!!! That’s right the exact pulley on a car that I personally beat on for a full week with a proper tune keeping tq and hp in check!

He is pissed because he blew his motor after being warned time and time again by at least three people: me, the tuner, and RJM!