actually the oil temps are fine so i dont think we need to upgrade anything in that range sometimes the ac shuts off and the oil temps are 210-220 which from my knowldge is normal in all 370's , so am thinking about stronger fans , but i dont know where to get them from since gtm site doesnt tell u a price or anything so u cant order it , i guess ill try to vent more air by cutting the black plastic front grill and messing around with that plus the radiator and ill keep u updated . but in any case if i wanted fans to mount on the oil coolers where can i get them from ? thanks man

p.s we will need to think in all the next upcoming builds so the issue doesnt happen again so we will take all precaustion's for this matter.

am also thinking do u think it might be the meshimoto thermostat isnt good or faulty ?

yes, i thing going back to the original t-stat is the best way to start. i have had a few car come in and overheat intermittently , the cause was t-stat.

the factory fans are great, dont cut them or replace them. the issue is else where.

Over heating and AC issues has long story with almost all Nissan motors , specially in gulf , i think you did everything could be possible with this.
usually Nissan stock engine need air come through to perform well , imagine how it will be with boost.
My advice to you , add more cold Air ducts in hood , front bumper (if you can see under hood almost no space for the engine to breath) . Add performance thermostat . You said that 2 Oil cooler been installed in car already , where you mount them and specs plz.

Always keep distance in traffic to avoid at least the hot air from other cars and don't Push the car hard in this extremely hot weather.

Last thing try to reduce driving your car in hot climate.

he has 2 oil cooler mounted behind the intercooler, no they dont have direct air flow but combined there is like 70 rows.

stillen front fascia is on the way soon , and a CSF radiator , actually the problem is not bad its just when the car goes into traffic inbetween 12 to 4 pm , but still that is not acceptable , i will not accept defeat and i will win this battle with this issue and get more TT370Z's in the GULF to be daily driven anytime anyday either slow or beatin the hell out of it , i trust this kit that is on the car cuz it is the best kit in the world and second of all i trust the guy that put the car togather and installed it and i doubt anyone is as good as him amazing prices and amazing finishes ------- > JASON :happydance:
so plan number one..
1- get rid of MESHIMOTO THERMOSTAT and see if the problem occurs, if it is still happening then..
plan number 2-CSF Radiator with distilled water and stillen front fascia and move the oil coolers to the open ducts although i know the issue is not the oil temps cuz they never ever ever ever ever go above 220 even if i was beatin the hell out of it in 120f degree weather.... if the problem still happen
then..
plan number 3-get upgraded fans and try to make the hood open a bit from the sides while closed , i used do this trick in turbo civic's , not sure it will work with the 370z, so i can get more hot air out of the engine bay , if the problem still happen's then..
:stirthepot: i wont give up and still have faith to find the solution .

Thank you for the kind words !!

I agree get the t-stat out of there. I also contacted osrius about fan temp activation and why they dont give a option to turn the fans on sooner, as this may be an option for you, to have the fans turn on with a separate system and eliminate the ecu for activation. As for moving the oil coolers i like the idea as the oil temp being cooler will help out the engine temps as well. On the next set of cars for you , i will tackle this issue for sure :tup:

it will for sure maybe help out when we move the coolets but again jason ! the oil temps are very low as i said when the issue is happening so am sure its something in the cooling area not oil issues , but as might as well get the full benefit of the bumper ha ! actually i was speaking to our friend yesterday and i told him right now all the projects are on pause cuz i cant build and send more til i resolve this issue my reputation is attach to this issue , if i cant fix this issue my hole project will fail and then i really cant protect the idea that this turbokit on this car takes the middle east heat , and specially kuwait , ppl are fun with it in dubai cuz its totally different there , very colder but more humid , we have the killer dry heat , if u put an egg on the pavement it will be boil in 1 min:eek:
but as i said i trust this kit and you so i will do everythin in my power to make it burn rubber in the hot roads specially in the hottest time of the day :yum:
without facing any problems :ugh2:

Are you sure the A/C system is not overfilled? Check to see if the compressor clutch is disengaged when it runs hot like that. If the compressor is not running when warm air is being blown, it could be that the pressure after the compressor is too high, causing the pressure switch to disengage the clutch.

While driving, it's possible that the additional airflow is cooling the compressed R134a in the condenser much faster, thereby keeping the pressure low and preventing the pressure switch from tripping.

This is just a theory, but it's worth checking out. If you can easily recreate this while idling, you can have a shop hook up a manifold gauge set to monitor the pressure while the blown air becomes hot.

well actually i wouldnt mind checkin out but as i said it doesnt happen while the car is stopping in a shop or something it happens when ur directly under the sun in traffic , so if i try to check it in the shop it wont blow hot air , so am gana take it step by step and first of all change the thermostate back to stock ! and see wht happens til the radiator and stillen front fascia arrive .

The A/C problem you are having is because the intercooler is blocking the air flow its huge. I use to have the same problem on my 350z,it would clear up once you start moving and get air flow to the front of the car.

well here are the updates so far , took the car to the mechanic changed the thermostate to the stock one , i was using meshimoto thermostat, and while he was putting it togather he found the sensor for the temps are lose and not in its place , so he asked me if i was gettin accurate temps reading for outside temps , so i said no it was always either too much or too cold it was never accurate , so he said thats one of the reason's of the issue , so i was wht ! whts that got to do with it ! he said u willl see, so we pulled the sensor to the top mount next where its reading actual air , checked their was was no air in the cooling system and made sure the coolent is measured properly , at that time it was already 4 or so , so the it wasnt the really peak time of the hot weather ,but the ac is 10times colder and their is no issues in stop go traffic wht so ever , and temps are even better ! the mechanic never really told me whts the sensor got to do with the problem ! anyway the test will be tommorow or so in the peak time of the hot weather here where its around 47c these days i will keep u posted , if that problem still occurs the CSF radiator is gettin installed , lets wait and see then .

so i guess my lesson from all of this NEVER EVER CHANGE THE STOCK THERMOSTATE , ITS THE BEST FOR HOT WEATHER , but am still not very sure , lets see

thats temp sensor is the ambient temp sensor , and yes it messes with the a/c and heat. If it read that it is vert hot out it wont let the heat be turned on

so i guess an upgraded radiator , change the ambient sensor position,change the front fascia in all the build and mount the oil coolers on the side and we are ready to roll ? am very happy that we have an example here to test everythin on it so we can make all the builds trouble free i was also thinkin about doing this upgrade for the radiator ---> Pulling the turbo and wrappin it with a blanket to cover it and all the exhaust housing and gettin rid of the lower coolant house and heat wrapped it, and Made an aluminum coolant overflow/expansion tank, someone else did this and i think it will also give us a bonus ! wht do u think !

klm
 

well this is the latest , went to 2day at the peak hour where it was very hot around 48c , and where its really busy and stop go traffic , and guess wht !!!:shakes head: the same problem happened again , AC started being so hot not only back and fourth , but just went hot all the time til we moved out of traffic , i had a shower in the car , haha , this is not acceptable, waiting for the radiator to arrive and upgraded front fascia , and more tests will take place , ohhh i forgot to mention the coolent temps were exactly in the middle didnt go higher , so for those who say cuz coolent is too hot or oil temps is too hot , both are normal oil 215 and coolent is exactly in the middle.:mad:, need to jump in a cold swimming poool .. do u know wht worries me the most guy ? if i did everything and it still did this , do u guys know wht this means ? that this car/engine/twinturbo= doesnt work in very hot countries , lets just hope that it will work fine when i finish from all the plans i got for it .:tup:

I'm following your thread closely. I'm having overheating problems, too...but my AC still blows cold most of the time. My coolant temps and oil temps shoot up as soon as the car is stopped at idle.

We are installing new fans with a remote switch today. Hopefully, this helps. If not, the next step is replacing the radiator with an aftermarket one.

Have any of you measured the actual temp in degrees using Uprev Cipher?

are these with the 2010 40th AV. only? because once i installed my oil cooler. i have never had an overheating issue. the on time i did was when trash blocked my intake. Check out the intake inlets and passages. and clear the radiator. Also NOTE: my ecu was upping idle from 700rpm to 1k rpm. and that caused the heating issue in a few situations. Found out it was because the 02 sensor and MAF sensor were both seeing different air flows then the ecu was used to.
Small trick let it idle for about 5 mins straight. shut it off for 5 min. and start up again. and it gets rid of that issue.
:hello:
Hope my little notes help a little bit.
Peace \./

By overheating you mean the coolant right?

well am followin your thred as well i even took the idea of the radiator trick
from your new build shawn did a wounderful work, keep me posted how it is after the tweeks , well actually abt my problem i have no oil temps issues or even coolent temps cuz oil temps reach 220 max and coolent temps are in the middle or even less, my only issue is the AC , its the baddest thing ever to see ur ac off while its on and their is nothing wrong!!!

no i havnt , actually the car sold along time ago , am helpin out the buyer cuz i promised him ill take care of the issue , plus i need to build more cars and i really dont wana stat building anymore and sending them til i fix this issue and know whts going on! in the end of the day no i didnt check the temps by cypher i didnt get it ,

So hindi the oil and coolant temps are ok , just the a/c starts to blow hot in the hottest part of the day? If this is the case thin you have another issue. lmk ??

Jnut u can call me moe , yes this is the issue , the oil temps are fine and coolant levels are also fine , oil temps are 220 max and coolant levels are one dot behind the middle or one dot pass the middle , every time the car goes in traffic or while ur iin the process of shifting from to any gear the ac seems to blow hot air :icon14:

I use to have a similar issue with my AC in my G and the reason was weak compressor. It's common for Nissan compressors to give up here gave seen several Gs with that problem

well thats an option ill check for sure , but as i said the kit has no problem and its amazing everything is perfect coolent temps, oil temps everything its just gets crazy when in stop go traffic , and the problem when i go to the mechanic its not crowded in his carage and not hot so even if i tell to check the problem everythin is perfect in his shop , but when i leave and the next day i go out in the peak hour when its hot and too many cars it goes crazy again . and the car has 8000 on the odo meter so do u think a compressor willl be weak in these amount low miles ? its a brand new car ,still smells new

The AC compressor needs air flow and is not designed to have a huge intercooler to be blocking air going to it.I use to have the same problem on very hot days in my 350z in traffic.Once I got going the AC would start working.I know your car is a 370z but you have to take this into consideration.The 370z compressor is different than the 350z it built into the radiator, I heard this is better but do not know if its true or not.

I have seen two Gs with compressor fail under warranty. I'm not sure if that's the case but no harm in getting it checked

oh ok this is a totally different issue, all along i thought your were over heating but it just the a/c stops working in the hottest parts of the day, hindi ill get back with u about this ima chech some TSB's.

its not the intercooler as the fans draw plenty of air across the condensor. should be able to sit and idle with the a/c on until it runs out of gas...Hindi i need to go to a repair shop at the hottest part of the day, when it fails. have them put on a set of a/c gauges find out what the pressures( high and low) are doing while its acting up. also check and make sure the fans are running while the a/c is on , if not the a/c will shut down , its a safety feature to save the a/c system. lmk jason

am gana try to catch it while its happenin am just gana let it sit turned on in the shop til it heats up and goes into this mode, the coolent levels and oil temps are amazin and runnin better with the stock thermostat , the oil coolers that we have is really the best everyone is askin me how do i have such low temps even when i go on wot over and over and over again not like other cars even when they have oil coolers when they go on wot it heats up then cools down , mine stays inbetween 210 and 220 , anyway jnut sorry if i still didnt get back to u abt the builds and stuff , but i seriousely paused everything in my life to to see this issue , its makin me go crazy and til i sort it out everythin is on pause cause am not lookin to face more of this problem , plus everyone is telling me this kit and car are not for this weather over and over again but i wana prove them wrong and make it trouble free car and it is , its just this little buggar!!
so once i sort it out this issue we will call u up and discuss whts gana be the projects
hope we didnt bother u or wasted ur time, but u know we didnt plan for this issue to happen so am sure u understand wht we are in ! thanks jnut your the best

I hope the problem gets solved soon, but kit is perfectly fine for our weather either its dubai humid hot weather or kuwait/alain try hot weather have seen lots of cars running here fine.

I have seen several cars coming to some specialized workshop here from all over KSA, Oman, Qatar and Kuwait for these kits and all running perfectly fine, with GTM stg 1 and sgt2 kits without any issue.

I totally agree with u that the kit is fine and I support it all the way , I even don't wan a start changing the front fascia and body parts to let more air in ,cuz everyone all over the world ran it with the same fascia and had no problems,but am dessprete to find the solution so am following each advise step by step radiator change , stock thermostat, stollen front fascia,bleeding,checkinn fans and compressor while the problem is live , it's just the bad part abt it , if the car is with me I wouldn't have a problem and I have all the time in the world , but I sold it and it's happen in to the new owner and the reason it's sold is to make it go out in the streets day and night with no issues to get more and more , not to find out the bloody ac doesn't work :shakes head:

yes, you dont need to change the facia or nothing . Go do as i posted above less tell me the info, we will resolve this issue :)

I'll try it's very hard to make the issue happen and go to the mechanic where he is it's notmbusy at all ,and am sure by the time I make it to busy roads and back again the issue will resolve cuz Wht I want u to also put in mind the issue doesn't happen unless am in busy roads in stop go traffic , when ever I start driving for bait without stopping it's perfect so something happens somewhere in the car that makes the ac shut off when the car gets warmer in stop go traffic , when I saw warmer I don't mean overheating I just mean that oil temps reach 220 and coolant gauge goes to the middle or 1 dot pass that :mad:

hindi iirc did your mechanic put freon into the car?? if he did he prolly over filled it , this will cause the system to shut down as the temps outside increase so does the high side of the a/c system. after reaches to a certain psi the car will shut the a/c system down
tell the mechanic the high side should be no higher than around 275 psi and no higher than 38 psi low side.

That's 100% correct , you need air flow to condenser/radiator to make the ac compressor work fine.
Many reasons could lead to compressor fail , starting from small sensors till the compressor itself, we are talking about Rotary type compressor which can not hold such heat/pressure . So air flow is MUST.

when we popped the hood their is a sticker that says ferion gas has to be 550psi when we checked it was 200 so we filled it up, but i never knew their was low and high and stuff all i knew is one place to plug in the ferion gas and fill up, but ill check with him when we get the radiator and install everything ill make them recheck everything ferion gas,compressor,fans . the problem is i would have done it now and even maybe do it step by step with u guys, but the car is sold and the owner is so lazy he doesnt care , and everytime i tell him to move his b%% he tells me he has family issues letswait for the radiator ro arrive and then do it all at once !!! , but i care abt his satisfaction that he doesnt even care abt cuz its all abt reputation how can we start building more if this issue is happening , maybe just maybe this issue happens only in our heat if we ran our of solutions ! the car runs perfect in the usa and once it ships and sees our amazin weather it goes :icon14:, so til i find a solution am going nuts its pausin everythin for me . JNUT can u plz pm me ur cell phone !
thanks

ur right abt the flow thats why i advised the owner to get a stillen front fascia ! its 550 dollars in some site !! we were getting it but guess how much was shipping !! 1200 so we :eekdance: awaaaay so fast heheeheheh
we will just cut the black plastic in infront of the bumper and do a civic EK STYLE HOOD LIFT heheeheh to help get out heat from the engine bay:tup:

well finally i convinced the owner to move his bu&& and go to the mechanic today right now their takin off the bumper , intercooler,oil coolers to reach the stock the radiator since its a once pieace part not like the CSF radiator it comes in 2 pieces , i told the mechanic to make sure abt the pressure to be maximum of 275 of the high pressure and 37 for the low , and their is a sticker on the bumper that tells u how much ferion u should add , but anyway how much ferion do u usually add then ? if we cut the black grill in the stock bumper can we move the oil coolers and put them next to each other in front of the empty space ? i doubt we can do that because we will block alot of air hitting the intercooler and radiator and stuff so we will have the same problems so i guess unless we go for the stillen fascia we leave the oil coolers the same way they positioned !?:stirthepot: