Bump! I am interested in this kit...if I won the lottery. :P

Very sorry to make you guys hear crickets.
The tranny is holding up good. I got reports today of the car beating a Mustang GT500 up as well as a few new camaros. The car will be coming back for more tranny cooling goodies in the near future(due to long hauls heating the fluids up). The only vid that I have is on Youtube under Z1Jon and I will try to get the dyno vid up soon.

Also the install took a couple of weeks due to some changes on the vehicle. The install was smooth and GTM has been great when it comes to shop discussions.

Gd to know tyranny is ok I've got a oil cooler and transmissions cooler installed wonder how long it would hold

does the tyranny really get that hot that it needs a cooler?

Everything on this car needs a cooler!

:iagree: but on the 6spd MT

I don't understand how adding forced induction will affect transmission temps with extended usage unless you're hammering the car...I imagine if you're using it at a track, then you're stressing the transmission more as you're throwing more torque at it than stock, however, cruising around (say, down the highway going 65-80MPH), I can't imagine trans-temps would be any more of an issue than if someone was/wasn't using FI...unless I'm misunderstanding or just way off base?

The trany has 100's of more hp to contain. Does not matter if you are just cruzing or pushing to the limit. The trany offically has more work to do which = more stress on components = more heat. The auto trany seriously needs an overhaul for this kind of app if you ask me. 6spd FTW if you plan on going FI, but auto suits some better, but they will just have to fork out a couple extra bucks to make the auto trany truly ready to take on the added power with no worries at all.

I know what you're saying, however, you're not increasing the LOAD on the transmission, the engine, or anything else when you're cruising down the highway driving like a normal person should.

If it takes 90ftlb to move the car at 80MPH down a flat stretch of road...it still takes the same amount of force, no matter if you have forced induction or not...

Air resistance won't change. Rolling resistance won't change. The only difference is that you have a turbo (or supercharger) in the car, so that if you mash the pedal, it has more power on tap which of course, would stress all of the components...

However, if you don't drive around flooring it all the time, I'm sure the components will hold up just fine, even if you dyno out at 1000HP...

You might blow the tranny on the dyno, but driving it around you'd probably do just fine...

Some people like to enjoy their cars.....If you have that amount of power, you will want to do some 0-60 times and races, topspeed runs that could put a huge amount of load on your tranny. For everyday driving it is fine, but most people will want to put that power to use.

456 WHp sounds kinda high for 7 psi. My guess is the manifold pressure was a little higher.

Shift kit and trans cooler both keep trans fluid temps down. The fluid is actually heated up while the transmission is in between gears. A shift kit shortens the time to shift from one gear to the next minimizing fluid heating.

Freeway cruising in over drive is not stressful on the transmission, but having the AT kick down on it's own under boost is bad. When driving a boosted AT ... always manually downshift before flooring it (and don't forget to hang on :p).

Ditto.

You can pick up a generic ATF cooler, which I would strongly recommend for anyone boosting their AT.

Back when I had my boosted Celica, I went with a cooler and higher stall TC from these guys -- excellent product. 12 row cooler with heat dispersant coating! Worked great! The TC spun up significantly faster (shaving over .5 sec off of 0-60!) and the ATF always looked and smelled as new no matter how hard I beat on it.

JMO WORLD SITE

If you want your TC restalled, you send them the core and they send it back to you within a couple of days.

That said, while the higher stall converter isn't necessary, the cooler is a must! This should be the first upgrade for boosted autos.

If you guys are feeling adventurous, a couple of shops to try for custom AT builds are:

Level 10 Performance Transmission Systems Bulletproof Transmissions,Supercharger

or

Import Performance Transmissions: Remanufactured transmissions for Audi, BMW, Toyota, Nissan, Mercedes, Acura, Lexus and more

Both should be able to rework your valve bodies and rebuild trans with extra strong clutch bands -- but again, the 7AT shifts so fast, it probably isn't necessary. Also, you can probably tweak it further with a reflash.

Oh, anyone know the code number for the 7AT?

EDIT: Found it -- 7AT: RE7R01A

This is another shop I have heard good things about:

517 Trans - Catalog - Infinity

why is the curve so bumpy?

I see this on just about every tuned dyno of this motor... I'm beginning to think it's because apparently no one can tune the VVEL properly...

I'd love to see what the boost curve and AFR's look like and if those curves correspond to what we're seeing on the dyno charts.

I'm thinking it may be the ecu retarding the timing due to it sensing some knock that is brought on by high compression + boost. My car is N/A and the graph is very smooth

I would surely hope not :icon14:

It was not pulling timing.

The question is, are these bumps safe for DD.

Let me rephrase my original post: I have an aftermarket tune from Technosquare. The graph is very smooth on my car and it's not because of the smoothing algorithm. The lumps you see in this engine's graph are over too wide of rpm range to be smoothed, so it's not that no one has figured out how to properly tune an engine with vvel.

New engine management systems progressively retard timing with very high sensitivity to knock - long before you can sense it. Progressive timing retard occurs without the driver sensing it because it's progressive... So the only way to know if it's pulling timing is if your obd is giving data to tell you. I plugged an uprev into mine and looked around. I didn't see it logging total ignition advance. Does it? If so, graph it trough the rev range and see if it's stable across those dips.

Thats not what a graph looks like when timing is being pulled. It's much more choppy. Those are big wide dips in the curve. Any reason for this?

Nice job on a TT with a 7AT. :tup:

This is what it looks like when timing is being pulled

http://www.boosted350z.com/Images/B/...is%2017psi.jpg

How many hours all in done deal, PM please ? was it supply and install or only install

Probably less than ideal VVEL settings... be interesting to see boost and AFR curves overlayed with power and torque output.

BTW, what kind of knock sensor? Resonant or non-resonant? Anyone able to output that from the ECU?

In the original post, the dip from 6,000 to 6,250 rpm was around 25 lb/ft of torque. In the graph that Daniel just posted, the biggest dip is around 40 lb/ft or torque. I don't think that difference defines whether or not it is retarding the timing. That graph looks like a turbo'd vq35 with more boost... conventional camshaft sees torque fall off at high rpms where the vvel keeps pulling. If it is a high boost 3.5, it's retarding more degrees of timing to compensate for the high boost. If you run California's 91 octane vs the 93 octane the rest of the country gets, it will retard more. If your engine is heat soaked when you do the run it will retard the timing even though you've done 5 runs where it didn't retard the timing. Also, when you remap the ECU, if you advance timing aggressively, it's going to have to retard it based on the knock sensor and get choppy. If you map it conservitavely it won't need to retard and your graph will be smooth. Also, if you forget and leave traction control on during your dyno run, it would do the same thing. If you don't have enough weight on the rear end and it's spinning (a little), it would also make a wavy dyno curve. I still say, get the ODB output if it's available.

The waviness can be many things. Something as simple as the boost not holding steady be it the wastegate or boost controller settings (gain, limiter, auto learn logic, etc...) Knock as well. A good way to find out if its knock or engine noise is to log the ignition timing albeit it with Cipher or the dyno equipment if possible. The timing will always start to drop off at the top you just want to make sure it does it according to the IGN maps. Cam timing also plays a good amount (overlap, etc) so VVEL could be it. Although some forced induction VQ37s look smooth as a baby's butt. A good test for knock if logging is not possible is to throw in some 100 octane and see if it smooths out. Logging fuel pressure would also be handy if a pump is having trouble keeping up and also calculating injector duty cycle. AFR would be a good indicator of this.

Also like Phimosis mentioned the way the car is strapped down and the ability for the clutch to hold the power can have an effect. Typically when a clutch slips the graph will look much different.

How does the MAF work on this setup? I have read that the MAF used on the G37/370Z needs to be placed before the FI instead of after. I am not that familiar with the platform, though, so correct me if I am wrong. How should a car with a tune/setup like this do long-term regarding engine durability?

The new Camaro's are no faster than the old (LS1 ) camaros. The GT500 is decently quick, but still way too slow for someone with 450whp in a 3350# car to be "gunning" for. Look for some Z06's.

2010 camaro 12.615@111.60... all stock. with a good driver there just as fast as the new mustang GT's..... there quite a bit quicker than the ls1 camaro. and trap considerably more.

and 450rwhp wont be enough to take down a properly driven z06.
they dyno 430-450rwhp and 420-440tq stock and weigh less. run low 11's. id say 450rwhp for the Z would maybe net it a high 11 maybe 11.8 11.9 range. but thats just a guess. noone seems to be posting drag times with there TT setups

New GT - nice, plenty of potential

Any updates on this 7-AT TT project?

How is it holding up? Mileage driven? Type of driving? Any tweaks necessary? Tranny slippage? Funky smells/sounds/sightings................

Yes there is. The car was not pulling timing. It has clocked about 4k on the mileage. He drove it to PC last week and is loving it. The owner Kerry drives it 0-60 as much as possible. But his brother beats on it when he drives it. His brother has an SS camaro but uses the Z to beat up on people. After tuning the tranny with the Osiris there has not been anymore limp mod. We also added a vented hood to let engine heat escape.

http://www.z1motorsports.com/imageGa...-13-10+006.jpg

the pictures in the first page arent loading for me.. i assume this is that blue car??

If so that car really is sick.. and yeah its very tame until you 100% gun then oh man.

Ask Tony (2theextreme) he took a ride in it...
when he came back.. he was seriously chewing his finger nails!!!

I can't wait to win the Lotto. :)

Very nice install and good results. If you don't mind could you explain about the tranny tune and limp mode. What are the upgrades you guys used for the tranny apart from a oil cooler?:tiphat:

We had to install a vented hood, open the front fascia more, install a top dawg tranny cooler with a fan and tune the tranny for more line pressure in higher gears. It was going into limp mode after the tranny would get really warm with the extra heat produced from the cars extra power.

After a couple of hours of drive time the tranny would just shut down. Pull over shut the car off for 15 seconds and you could drive again. This was very annoying. And that is where the tranny tuning came into play. We installed the vented hood at the same time.

what about gear slipage and locking in 2nd, 3rd and 4th mainly did it helped after the tune. I am hoping someone can do the tranny tune here, that was uprev right?

No slipage. It never locked in those gears. And yes it was tuned with Osiris.

Thanks again and goes +rep along with that :)