Can you prove/validate your 15psi? Pulleys, SC rpm, SC trim, SC bearing upgrade, accuracey of boost gauge, etc? How do you know people making less than 15psi is due to belt slip? How did you figure out and know "proper belt tension"?

Sure do. I can grab datalogs from my laptop tomorrow if you are still interested (rather do this via PM's though, just remind me). The big thing was swapping the supercharger to the RPM belt, the "normal" one is a constant losing battle between trying to tension it just for it to stretch and be loose again. Not one problem since.

I wouldnt say "easily possible" since I have never seen anyone make 15psi with it. Not saying you didnt but there have been many of these kits sold and I have never seen one make any decent power with that filter on.

What is considered almost daily driving? 10,000 miles? That means every year you have to remove the entire supercharger and reinstall it to clean your filter. Also, I see that filter gets completely smashed from engine movement. Even after cleaning it I am pretty sure it will not bring in the same psi as it did when it was new. It physically loses surface area, something it cant afford.

Plus just the fact that knowing every time you drive your car it is losing psi/power is kind of strange.

I know I am calling the kettle black here since this was my design and I appreciate the feedback to help the community understand facts. (unlike facebook)

In your below comment you have stated you had to modify the kit in order to gain boost. When I say 12 psi that is because that is what the competition sends out to the customer. Yes its possible to modify it to make more boost. You could have done this by overdriving the head unit even further also.

The point is "here is what you get when you order a Rotrex kit Vs. here is what you get if you order the competitor kit". Nothing needs to be done to the Rotrex kit at all in order to make more power than most people know what to do with instead of constantly modifying and trying to figure out how to make these Vortech kits make more power.

I also forgot to add:

Rotrex: 50,000 mile service (oil change) Once every 3.5 years
Competitor: 7,000 mile service (oil change) Once every 6 months

Don't get me wrong, I am in no way trying to diminish the new kits capabilities. I know it will be superior to the previous kit(s) in virtually every way. I despise that stupid filter, I have offered several shops good money to come up with a custom solution to it and none of them even wanted to try.

Ok, so this would be my first major purchase for my Z. If I can't do 700+ due to having stock internals and block, what all do I need besides this kit? Trying to figure the total cost for parts.

Did you read the product page?

It mentions:

91/93 OCTANE MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS - up to 500whp

- 1000cc injectors (Highly recommend Plug and Play Clips)

- 340lph pump with install kit and voltage stabilizer kit

- Ecutek package (Interface, deskey, license)

- 4 bar omni MAP sensor

- Tune required (We offer a base or remote tune package, see main page)

(All components listed are available on the main page)

....furthermore it’s typically not the HP value that destroys the motors it’s the torque getting beyond about 500wtq that blows the connecting rods through the block. It’s like an unwanted axe throwing contest inside your engine, you’re just waiting to see which one of 6 punches a hole first. Superchargers in general have a linear curve so if you hit 500wtq it’s at the very top near redline, your motor is spinning at a high RPM so it’ll wear the motor out less quickly. On the flip side, twin turbo setups make torque very low in the RPM band which puts a lot of turning/twisting force on those con rods which is how you end up having a bad day if you just “tune for max HP”, disregard the fact you’re making 550+ tq, and give ‘er a full send or 2, hope you got $$$ for a built block. Then again, the torque pulling you like a freight train down low is what people love. It’s all what you want to do.

Still need to see a dyno or driving video of the TG C39-110 kit.... I need to hear some S/C soundsssss :driving:

What will this kit sound like with regards to the blow off of excess boost? Will there be a way to completely silence it?

I know on your other kit there were methods but i can only imagine the sounds when you only want to run 10psi but its making 23.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You will likely need a very beefy clutch upgrade for that much power.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Are there any clutch recommendations if I want to make 500 WHP with this kit? I have roughly estimated a maximum of around 500 torques at the crankshaft. Zspeed has a stage 2 clutch rated at 480 but he reports some safety range included in that.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Call up Joe at ZSpeed and he’ll give you the hookup. I believe their Stage 3 clutch setup is the one I see a lot of twin turbo guys running. Good for them, it’s god enough for me! Plus, you’ll want to do a CSC delete since you’re already there, may as well. Oh, and get an RJM Clutch pedal cuz the stock one is absolutely garbage to put it nicely. That helper spring is trash.

Southbend stage 3 is a great clutch. It's full face so it drives like stock, it's just a little stiffer and will hold that power and torque.

If I was to order the kit today would it be included functionally? I know it isn't tested yet but I would want to pass a visual inspection under the hood which should be enough for me.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Could it pass Smog? Yes. Could it pass CARB? NO, The MAFS are still in the intake pipes right before the throttle body. IN order to pass carb you would need the mafs in the intake pipe before the supercharger. Which is totally possible. I just havent gotten that far yet.