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Best ways to control traction
What are the best ways to keep traction , seems like it’s everything I can do to keep traction running 12 lbs on the boosted performance kit ...was thinking on going more but what’s the point if you just spin ..other than Dyno bragging numbers. Currently I’m on stock nismo suspension with 305 Michelin pilot super sports for daily driving, I know the Toyo r888 have more grip but not really great for daily driving ..is there any other options
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Have you done a diff upgrade yet? Wavetrac or OSGiken. They will make the car more predictable and controllable.
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MT ET Street SS.
Last about 5K miles tho... |
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MSS is a great sport tire but it will not hold 500whp+ Z in 1st or 2nd. if all you care for is straight line grip then go with MT S/S it will put all your power to the ground without any issues. but keep in mind at high speeds you will suffer from lack of stability due to the soft side wall.
and if you are like me and you care about stability and handling. the MT will not do.. i currently have the Toyo R888R sitting in my shopping cart for a while now just waiting to finish up my current tires (Nitto INVO) i had great reviews from many users of the R888R its definitely a DD and a track tire.. it grips real nice when it warms up and the only draw back is its little bit noisy tire .. which is something i can live with. |
If you run drag radials; they will spin like any other tire (unless heated in a burnout box)
Then they’ll grip....any of those tires listed will light up with that much power. You may want to lose some of that factory Negative camber in rear; to prevent burning off inner portion of tires. Keep fuel tank full & ride a “Fat-Girl” around. |
Just noticed that you have a 15’ Nismo; if it’s a stick-shift car/ you have 3.92 gears out back,,,thus will intensify the lower speed spinning.
You may end up using Ecutek’s traction control,,,as it can be adjusted in small increments Otherwise 1st,2nd & possibly 3rd will go up in smoke. |
VitViper.com has rolling traction control - needs a Motec ECU though
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jinxx, i just threw a set of bridgestone potenza re71r 's on the rear of my z,285 wide, made a helpful difference, still will spin but much better, i have toyo r888's on my dodge viper, they are amazing, but are also 335 wide.
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Also was a 7A/T,,,which has lower gear ratio. Ran 345/30/19 Nitto Invo’s on 19x12 Forgestar wheels (65# each)...Camber was about -0.75* & would only hook with a burnout first. You may have to look around at different spring rates & work on some weight transfer. Don’t forget the “Fat-Girl” ;) |
OSGiken and tuning your suspension would be a start. What is your camber?
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What I have found is that tires that are good at hooking up for straight line acceleration are pretty bad for handling corners (race tires are the exception) and tires that corner really well aren't the best for straight line traction. It has to do with the sidewall design. Drag tires have very soft sidewalls so that when the load transfers to the rear they flatten out and gives more contact area. Watch a top fuel car coming off the line. Good cornering tires have very stiff sidewalls (check out an F1 car in a corner) you will have very little flex in the sidewall.
I upgraded my diff to a Quaife ATB diff and it made a world of difference with control ability. The rear tires still spin in 1-2 and above 80mph in 3rd. I'm using Bridgestone RE-11 tires with 305 rears. These tires are known to not be great at straight line traction but oh my, when it comes to cornering, you have a hard time reaching the limit anywhere except on a track. These are great autocross tires but you do have to watch the power application. As someone else already stated, you can improve the rear traction by taking out some rear negative camber so the tires are more upright to improve the footprint and load across the tread. It is a small improvement but it does help. I'm running 0 degrees camber. With the great grip I get with the RE-11s I can get away with this and still have a great handling car. One other thing to keep in mind, the Z was never intended to be a drag car. It was designed to handle and if you want more grip you will need to dive into the suspension to get any improvement. Street tires can only do so much. My $0.02 Good luck! |
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For my driving habits I was thinking adjusting the camber upgrading the diff and depending on mileage maybe switch to the toyo r888 .......one of the main reasons I went with mss was more mileage...if I was to push the car it would be more so a straight line not so much on the track
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If you're using an electronic boost controller, maybe try ramping in the boost more slowly? That big hit of torque on spoolup always seems to break the tires loose.
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You could always try using your RFTCS. :p
( Click to show/hide )
Seriously though a "proper" LSD will make a world of difference. I had a Quaife on a previous ride and liked it a lot. The OSG is probably the best to grow with. |
My experience has been different.
I run 325/19 re-11 on the rear and 285/19 on the front. The RE-11s do not hook at the dragstrip at all. They dont hook in the corners either, unless heated up well. Not really impressed and my car makes only 300 whp. The MT ET street SS in 285/18 on the rear at 25 psi, are quite simply amazing in the corners. These are not typical soft side wall bias ply drag tires, they are short sidewall radials. The MT tire does very well at the dragstrip too. It requires no burnout at the track, or on the street. My car is very stable and perfectly comfortable with the MT ET street SS on the street, they just dont last very long. My ET streets have about 100 1/4 mile runs on them and 2600 street miles. They are nearly to the wear bars now. To hook, you need a soft tire compound and a good suspension set up. Few street tires have a soft compound. |
I never tried the ET Streets; though I’ve heard it’s a great tire.
Here’s what I had to do-to make the 345 Invo’s grip. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...51d6ff964d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1982c0e720.jpg Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
There is a lot of good advice here. To add my two cents, there is no hooking up on any tire without heat in them period. All tires do better when they are at their appropriate running temperature. Mechanical grip is limited in the Z do to suspension set up and drive train. So the more you can do to improve it the better off you will be for what ever setup you you shooting for. After spending time this year with Jeremy from Nissan I learned a few things about the Z and one of the big ones which I knew but didn't know what to do about is the rear end of the car is really light. He showed me several Nissan, various Z models and all of them had a way to add weight over the rear axle. I got to come up with a way to do this for my z lol.
The deal is the Z was not meant to be boosted and NA the car is pretty damn good out of the box all things considered. The number one thing I have learned and I am sure Chuck can back this up as he has been boosted a lot longer than me is, you got to learn how to control your right foot. You can't simply smash the go fast pedal an not spin! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk |
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So true!
I scaled mine with an empty trunk and 5 gal of fuel and .. 1553lbs 44.50% rear 1937lbs 55.50% front Holy cow! it is light in the rear. I thought that the car hooked better at the dragstrip with a full tank of fuel. That is real trade off for me cause I dont want the added fuel weight to the total. |
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My cross weights were 1755lbs, 49.9. I didn't take a snapshot of the front and rear. I may have them in the car. I will go check. It will be corner balanced again after the TT install. The diff cooler and axle upgrade for the rear will help.
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Here my corner balance numbers are with 180lbs of led weight in the drivers seat.
LF- 988 RF- 941 LR- 814 RR-772 Cross weight %= 49.9 Rear- 47 Front- 37 They could be better but I am not tracking yet. |
With the 440 Dodge Dart that I drag raced. I used to bolt down some weight lifting weights in the trunk.
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Setup has a lot to do with how a car handles turns or straight line. That Turbo Supra can blow past me in a straight away but I gain it back in the curvy parts. Fun! It's all in what you want out of your car. The real limit of my car is my wife. I have to back way off when she rides with me. She was much more adventuresome when she was younger. I still have not "grown up" at 64........ |
^^^Now that is funny. LOL
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In the motorhome. It has air ride suspension. And it's smooth. So is the tranny. You can't feel it shift. We'll pull out of somewhere. Start to accelerate. After a couple of minutes. The wife will ask me. "How fast are we going?" I'll look down at the speedo and say, "cough......cough......85." (The speedo only goes to 85.) And she will say. "This isn't the Z, slow down!" Remind you. I'm pulling a Grand Cherokee behind me, and my weight is 41,000 lbs. :eek: |
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My wife is great. When we went to my friends wedding in my 1990 300zxtt we were cruising home on the interstate. I was just cruising along. She looked at me and said, "You can drive however you want". LOL So I did. She enjoyed the ride and was giggling the whole way. I have a method to my madness on the interstate. I got a Kawasaki side by side Teryx years ago. We were cruising around on the dirt roads. I came to a cross road and ripped a few donuts without warning. She knew exactly where the OH shet handles were and was shaking her head smiling. LOL My dad however did not do that well. While we were going around in a circle he was screaming "Derrick, I didn't teach you to drive like this" at the top of his lungs. LOL
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Z's in general have a terrible time at putting power down even at stock hp levels. If you want to get any sort of traction you'll need to get drag radials, re work the rear suspension completely, zero out the camber, fix the toe, and get a good LSD. To put in perspective I can dead hook at 800whp+ in my Supra, which weighs less than my Z, with 275/35/18 federals. A $100 street tire...
If you want a car that hooks up you'll need to sacrifice handling by changing all the components listed above, or you'll have to sell the car and get something more favorable for straight line acceleration. I loved my boosted 370 but I sold It for that very reason. It would cost way to much to go fast compared to other cars. I found the cars to be a lot more fun NA so I bought another but vowed to do minor bolt ons and stop there. ECUTEK does have that traction control software built in but I never liked it. I felt the best way to moderate power was just by using my right foot. |
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