Could you opt for the oil feed comp turbos?

Yes, that is still an option. You can go with a journal bearing turbo or a ball bearing oil cooled turbo.

The ball bearing oil cooled has the same centre section as the oil-less units, just uses oil instead of grease.

I think the JB units would be on par as far as cost goes as the triple ceramic ball bearing oil-less units. The oil cooled ball bearing units would be more expensive than though than the oil-less, due to the addition of an oil pan, two oil lines, RTV, scavenge pump, and pump bracket.

I'll be ready when you start making the kits again

The verdict is in on this.

This was not a quality control issue, and the problem occurred at the time of the install (to no fault of the installer).

When the compressor cover was clocked (not sure if it was removed and replaced) for proper fitment, the seal or O-ring that sits between the compressor cover and the compressor cover back plate was pinched. This cause the compressor cover to sit at a tilted angle, which means the compressor itself was in contact with the cover.

As soon as some significant amount of exhaust gas went through the turbine, the compressor wheel overcame the resistance due to exhaust force, and stated to rotate while still in touch with he cover.

This is why in the video it looks like the shaft is almost bent...when it is not, it is the compressor cover not sitting square to the compressor wheel.

COMP is going to warranty this unit regardless.

Good to hear they are taking care of it even though it was not a manafacture defect.

Wow cool beans

Pretty much everything Sasha just stated. I spoke to Comp Turbo this morning. Comp stated that this was possibly a install error while clocking...... They said when I clocked the turbo the gasket most likely got pinched or became misaligned when it was rotated to line up with my piping. Even though everything appeared okay prior to starting the vehicle and even idling okay....meaning nothing seemed misaligned at the time, once the turbo got some heat and boost through it the housing began to contact the impeller blade. This would explain why I was able to get into the boost slightly a couple times and somewhere not to long after this I started to notice the noise. I asked Comp if this rubber gasket is oiled slightly during assembly to avoid the gasket getting pulled slightly when rotating and they said it does.........my thinking was that a dry rubber gasket would want to pull a little bit when rotating the turbo housing for clocking. Comp said that they would cover this under warranty and I should receive the turbo back probably by Friday.......I am not sure what is being replaced on the turbo itself as of now so I'll see on Friday when is arrives.

To sum everything up with Comp Turbo and Sasha at Boosted Performance

Great customer service
Takes initiative on providing feedback and solutions to customer issues
Fast shipping and response
Good Product

As far as how to avoid this from happening to anyone else in the future................I am not sure as I thought I was being as careful as possible and not forceful with anything with this turbo. The gasket we are speaking about was never removed from the turbo.....so my best guess is that it got pinched during tightening. I hope sharing this information helps others in the community as there are not hundreds of these setups out there.

Is there a way to edit the title of a thread?

Hopefully they clock it to match what they received. :)

They did say that they would send it to me clocked the way I had it.

This is great news! (Hear that Elmo?)

Still in the air about the oiless. Leaning with the ball beating

Glad to hear you got this all sorted mate. Do have a question though, wouldn't turning the compressor wheel, or turbine wheel by hand feeling for odd points of resistence given you a clue to this?

This is what I don't understand. I don't recall feeling any type of resistance on the turbine prior to starting the vehicle. My guess to this would be that once the turbo came under boost and heat something changed........Or it happened when I had the bolts all loose to clock the turbo and when I twisted it into its final position I never checked it by spinning the turbine because at this time it's already mounted into the final position and I just ended up putting the air filter on it.
Remember though I was able to drive the car a half mile getting into the boost a couple times with no issues......it ran great no weird noises, spooled up fast....so something changed after the second time getting into boost.

My guess is that you damaged the thrust bearing, allowing the impeller to come in contact with the bowl. But that's based on my experience with industrial blowers, so YMMV.

Just for the simple fact that comp is being awesome about this I'll probably go for them. I've heard a couple not so good stories of people trying to deal with precision


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