Yeah, but your limited to 500whp with these bulletproof setups. So you will be limited to just over 500wtq then also unless you could get 500whp and 650wtq out of a 3.7l gas engine.

There are a couple of guys making big horsepower on 7AT built by FI (have no idea if its similar or the same as level10).

620whp: http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ml#post3119253

660whp: http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ml#post3507693

this info came from the FI Finished Builds sticky

How did i miss this thread for a few weeks? I am in the middle of planning my boosted 7AT build from scratch. So a thread like this is very important to me, I havent bought a TT or SC kit yet, but I have been very keen on an AAM TT Kit.

Hey Lt, so what exactly was wrong with the tune, was it something to do with line pressure? Who did the original tune that had something wrong with it and who had to fix the tune to make the AT run better, was it LVL10 or the original tuner? Would like to know this so when I have my Z tuned after the forced induction build I know what I must tell my tuner.

Im a bit worried that you had to send your trans a handful of times to LVL10 to get the "bulletproof" package. I would have thought you would only need it once!? So are you saying that even a bad tune can kill a bulletproof trans??

Hmm, this is what concerns me. Makes me want to drop my FI choice from TT back down to SC...

So if I still choose a TT kit, can I get Seb to eTune my Z to stay under 400wtq?


I spoke to FI recently. They told me their record breaking 677whp 7AT Z had the following trans upgrades:

Exedy Clutch packs
FI CNC Flex Plate
Custom Shim plates (in-house job only, not sold outside of FI)
19 Row Trans cooler.
Engine and Transmission tuned by Seb @ SpecialtyZ
I am insure if they had a VB or TQ converter upgrade, I forgot to ask FI.

I am interested to know what the shim plates are. But I think I remember LVL10 saying it is included in their rebuild kit.


Looks like the Infiniti 7AT rebuild kit is $200 more than the Z 7AT rebuild kit.
BULLETPROOF KIT 370Z

Is that because the Infiniti is AWD or something? But the trans have thr same part number.

Inspite of all this. My plans for the trans after it gets boosted is to:

Send my VB in from Australia to LVL10 for the upgrade
Either purchase the LVL10 rebuild kit or just the Exedy Clutch packs and get a local trans shop to install them
Get my TQ converter upgraded locally
Trans cooler
Have engine and trans tuned specifically to survive (hopefully)

Wish there was a cheaper way to strengthen the 7AT. I think all of the above is still going to cost alot more than a few thousand :(

Oh and, another thing I was hoping someone could find out for me as I asked in another thread, is if the JR711E/RE7R01B transmission could replace the JR710E/RE7R01A in the 370Z. The former has a higher torque rating so it maybe cheaper to just swap that in if it fits. Perhaps somebody could ring LVL10 for me and find out if they know?

@shadow85, yeah the transmission was sent and returned a handful of times and the tuner did not do anything to account for line pressure or shift points. This made the transmission shred through it's clutch packs and disengage. Pat was tired of having the same issue over and over and the tuner not getting it so he had it shipped to him. He had a tuner he trusted go over and fix the issues.

Nice!

Shadow, they are not really shim plates.

They are steel plates, that go between the clutch friction plates.

When you install Exedy or Alto or Raybestos aftermarket high performance clutch friction plates, they are generally a different thickness than the OEM clutch friction plate. Usually they are thicker, to handle more torque and heat.

So, when you stack up a clutch pack in an AT, the assembly order is steel, friction, steel, friction, etc until the drum is full. If the final stack up clearance is wrong, which it generally is with the use of aftermarket hi-per frictions, the clearance is then corrected by machining some or all of the steel plates - or the pack retaining plate - to a different thickness, or using a special "thin" plate, to get the desired total clutch pack clearance.

This clearance is critical, too tight and the pack will drag and burn itself, too loose and the trans wont shift cleanly and may burn the pack due to engine rpm flare up.

This is not something easy to do. Hence the reason it is an "in house" only deal, and only very experienced AT trans builders should attempt.

Hmm very interesting, thanks SG.

The only reason why I said 'shim plates', is because that's what the FI rep. called them in the e-mail. When I asked LVL10 if their rebild kit contains 'shim plates', he said yes they do have 'steel plates'.