Stillen supercharger kit, intercooler pump wasn't hooked into power
 

Took the Z for a spin today, and checked oil, supercharger oil, etc. before and after the drive. When I got back, noticed there was a loose red wire running underneath the supercharger. Followed it and realized it wasn't actually hooked up to anything.

I didn't do my install on the kit, because it had already been started by my dad, so had a guy there finish it up. Looks like the wire crimp he did for the Intercooler Pump hot (+) wire, came loose sometime after install.

Looks like the next warm day that I have, I'll be taking off the bumper cover and hooking that back up. Any Ill effects I should be thinking about from having driven with this not active, other than the loss of HP due to higher intake temps?

TIA!

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The air was much hotter than the car thought it was but if it ran fine you should be okay. Fix it before you drive it hard, no boost until then.

Will I be able to access that pump by taking the bumper cover off? Or will I need to come in from underneath? The sc being on there might be in the way a bit I'd imagine

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Should be behind the fender liner. Turn your wheels all the way right and pull the liner and check there. You could not get to mine with the bumper off.


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Mine was accessible with the front bumper off but I think if you went through the drivers side fender that would work also.

Thanks guys, got in through the drivers side fender. Can't find my butt connectors, so just used a good electrical tape wrap from about three inches up from where i twisted the the bare wires together.

Will take her out tomorrow and see how things go!


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BTW:

Can you please quote the article number if you have expanded the Bosch pump?

I believe it is this pump:

Bosch PCA 12 Volt: No. 0 392 022 002

Can you confirm that, please?

Thank you in advance :tup::tup::tup::tup:

Swiss are u a king about the standard pump that comes with the Stillen kit....if so here is the link to their pump as per Stillen.

ELECTRIC BOOSTER PUMP (EBP25) (12V) KIT - PART No: 9005 -

I've heard from others that they have stuck with the pump even after upgrading to the Frozenboost Heat exchanger, others have recommended going with a bigger pump but I could never get an exact part or brand for an upgraded pump.

I'm going to make me over the winter few thoughts on the "STILLEN" water cycle!

For more upgrades I have this baby in the eye :yum:


http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1453644636

http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/file...43000-0857.pdf

50 l/min.....

(About the outlet temperature at the water cooler in the Plenum, regulated!
This will be a different Thread......)

Considering I did drive it spirited occasionally after install without this pump running, anything I should double check here over the next few months?

The hotter air basically means the engine was running richer than the tune intended, right? Wondering if my oil cooler helped counteract possible overheating issues from that warmer air?

This is definitely a reminder of why I like to do all my own work, and to always double check work done by others on my car.

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If it's running fine your okay. No the oil cooler had nothing to do with AIT. Your MAFs are reading the outside air temps but then it goes through the supercharger that compresses the air adding lots of heat. Normally in the intake the water pump is cooling it down some but yours isn't.


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The intake charge was much hotter than the ecu expected. It's a good thing you didn't pop your motor. You got pretty lucky.

Being that it was in winter probably saved you your engine.

Yep, makes sense in the air intake temps. @Chuck, how would the hotter air have blown the engine? (Not questioning you, just want to learn more)

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The engine adjust it self to that AIT, so if it thinks the air is 65 but the real AIT is 120 the car doesn't know it. Lots of guy have blown motors with the Stillen kit trying to make more power because the MAFs don't get real AITs.


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Got it. If the air is warmer than the MAF suggests, its going to push more fuel than is necessary, right?

Am I correct in thinking that the issue with most folks who blow the engine are from accidentally running to lean?

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I would guess it's more likely the ECU giving it more timing thinking it's cooler than it is.


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Ahhhh, yep, thank you. Did not even consider the timing aspect. Long story short, I'm glad I got lucky here.

Thinking a combination of Stillen's base tune being fairly conservative, and always using the standard map instead of aggressive map, may be what saved me here.

I may do a full check of the whole install in the spring to be sure all is well.

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If you are on the base tune the car is probably pig rich and not making much power, that could have saved you. Do you have a AFR gauge on the car? Is the car rich?

Nope, don't currently have an AFR gauge, but I actually did some dyno runs in October, not realizing the intercooler pump, so I've got AFR numbers from those runs.

Here's the charts from it. This explains the lower than expected power output. Going to work with Stillen this spring hopefully to see if their base tune can be improved at all, by sending some data logs from a dyno run.

Attachment 111314

Eventually, I'll pick up some resonated test pipes and get retuned.


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Just my 2 cents but I would find a good tuner to tune it.


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This. Stillen's tunes are terrible. Get a custom tune from someone good. You'll have a faster, safer car.

Yep, that's the long term plan, probably with year end money. First child is coming in June, so expecting that I won't have as much fun $$ and will need to be more deliberate in saving for upgrades to Zella.

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Congratulations!


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Much appreciated. Quote I for for an Ecutek or Uprev license and dyno time was around $900. That sound accurate?

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Sounds about right. It made a world of difference in my car. Once I had it tuned I was amazed at how much power I had been missing.


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HUGE difference.

I have never seen anyone not make big improvements with a custom tune.


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No canned tune is very good. They're just to get you to a tuner. It's not just the power increase. The part throttle drivability and throttle response is so much better.

Went for it. Have an Ecutek tune scheduled for April 15th, with Johnson Tuning in Indianapolis. Looking forward to feeling the difference!

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Your going to love it!

Going to switch out to Berk Resonated Test Pipes as well, for the tune. To really maximize power.

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Got the test pipes on, now just gotta try and be patient for 8 days, till the tune.
https://youtu.be/vsUca3fjgfQ
(Phone mic isn't the greatest)

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In for updates

Welp, what a waste of a day. Got there at 11 for a 11 am appt. Waited 2.5 hrs before they even started my pre dyno inspection.

Once he got it on the dyno, was working on it for three hours without keeping me updated on the progress. Only to find out, he said that the Stillen tune had locked the ECU and he was unable to flash the Ecutek rom over it, because Stillens tune changed the ECU number and Ecutek wouldn't recognize my ECU.

Beyond frustrated at being there for 8 hours, and leaving with a base uprev tune for now, that killed my cruise control. Has anyone heard of the issue with stillen locking the ECU?

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I ran across the same thing. Their tune is top secret. (& pig rich)
I actually had a flyer in my uprev cable/install disk that said I could get 3 free tunes with osirus.
uprev said not on the stillen tune though
3rd party Tuner needed me to purchase a $300 uprev license.
Not sure where the base 'supercharger' tune would have come from.
Had a GTR shop with Stillen Kit install, & tuning experience confirm that.
They seemed to already have a starting point developed for the tune though.
Quoted me $1000 to before & after dyno it, with $300 being the uprev license.

Got it done finally, on Ecutek.
https://youtu.be/b0O-GT5c5Zc

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I just used the Stillen cable to flash back to stock, and then I flashed a custom tune over that. Yes, the Stillen tune is locked, but you don't tune over the Stillen tune, you remove the Stillen tune, and then flash the ECU as if you're flashing a stock ECU. The annoying part is that you can't do anything with the Stillen tune, so once you remove it, you essentially have to buy whatever tuning software you want to use, as if you don't have anything at all. In my case, ECUtek doesn't work with my ECU, so I had to buy an UpRev Tuner kit (license AND cable) from someone else, and start from scratch.

So now that that's out of the way, what kind of power did you make? Videos only show the pull, not the results.

Waiting on the Actual dyno chart, but it was 403 whp and (I believe?) 320 wtq

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Finally got the chart scanned in. Calling it a day and think I'll enjoy the car for the summer without anymore immediate work. :-)

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