Does this standalone play nice with OBD?

It's not just a stand alone. It's a stand alone with full vehicle integration. Push button start works like stock, put in the key authentication on key ON into it as well so I don't get an immobilizer light on the dash (which the ECU will still run the motor even with that light on, but who wants to look at that crap?).

A/C is run by the ECU via CAN. The fans are run by the ECU via CAN.

http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/...tec/nissan.png

Oh and cruise control works.

Yes yes.

Pretty sure no one on the market making ECU's targeted at motorsports cares about OBDII. It's a diagnostics/emissions related protocol and these are race/off road ECU's (I have yet to see a single "CARB" approved stand alone ECU -- even when the ECU runs all the factory emissions systems like EVAP, etc, like this M1 can be programmed to do).

So on the diagnostics front... OBDII is inferior compared to plugging my network cable from the ECU into my laptop and pulling 400+ channels of data that shows me EVERYTHING. On the emissions front -- I'm not even going to touch that with a 10ft pole, not with the EPA losing their minds trying to shutdown our race cars lol.

That... and you probably couldn't pay me enough to spend the programming time on it, lol.

Now for a teaser of some more goodies... dual lambda closed loop control -- full time either with a MoTeC LTC or whatever analog inputs you feed it from your existing in-car widebands if you like.
http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/.../motec/afr.png

Knock control works with both bank's knock sensors. Very advanced and fully configurable knock logic if you want to configure it. Your motors will live longer if you spend the time to dial this in. I'm beating my motor up so you don't have to beat yours up -- verified the frequencies I tuned for the knock FB are correct, as you can see. haha.
http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/...otec/knock.png

And of course, VVEL! That oh so scary VVEL (lol). Fully unlocked, fully mapped, including safety margins (which you can adjust if you like, but your funeral if you do lol).
http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/...otec/shaft.png
http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/...tec/shaft2.png
http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/...tec/shaft3.png

A/C control works.

http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/tt370z/motec/ac.png

Wow dude! Awesome!

The only reason I asked about OBD was to see if there's a chance to use this on a street car. I understand what OBD is. I couldn't give a rat's *** about emissions or using it for diagnostics, but it would be nice to be able to get the car inspected so I can drive it on the street.

Inspected by...? The local emissions/deq? If so that's kind of an emissions thing, regardless of how either of us feels about it. Pretty sure a turbo kit on one of these cars wouldn't pass an OBDII scan (various codes turned off to keep the ECU happy on my ECUTek map). Unless someone is stalking you, it shouldn't prevent you from running this ECU setup.

In fact, the way I have it setup... I can unplug the M1 and plug the stock VVEL & engine computers in and drive away (yes, the M1 takes the factory VVEL computer out of the picture -- we run it ourselves, no problem). Shouldn't be a problem to keep the stock computers on the shelf for a rainy day -- takes 5 minutes to revert back to them, and their glorious 12 minute reflashes, lol.

Inspected by the state. In TX (and plenty of others) TT kits pass just fine, even without cats. As long as there's no code or it's turned off, it's good. Their computer just has to be able to communicate with the ecu.

Since you can switch back to the stock ecu and have a running, passing car, then this is back on the menu as a possibility.

Easy, we can go over the details later. In your case you'd want to pull the factory primary O2's as they will get owned without an ECU running the heater control.

Finalized my fuel pressure & dual IAT sensor install on the car today. Going to rip out the air restrictor plates out of the charge pipes... err... mafs... Although if someone wants to use the IAT's in those and leave the air restrictors in the charge pipes thats fine too -- but not for me, lol.

Getting close. Should have base timing sync verified on it this Saturday. Have to make a new mark and do it from the bottom since you can't see any of the timing marks from the top of the engine bay, LOL.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iiLr...ature=youtu.be

:happydance:

Curious what does the stand alone offer that ecutek doesn't? I thought ecutek had full vvel control and everything no?

Not boosted so probably has no effect for me but just curious.

For a bolt on car ECUTek is more than sufficient, it's a great solution. The MoTeC isn't targeted towards something like that. This targeted at F/I builds that want to take advantage of full control of everything with great precision, superior speed, etc. Full time lambda control, full time closed loop boost control, closed loop launch control, closed loop traction control (not a queer ignition timing retard -- this is the most retarded way of doing any traction control, especially on a turbo car, pun intended).

Once I get further into the features I'm programming in, I'll have more details.

Got some chop going at idle. Actually quite funny, it gets so deep the bass starts to drown out the chop on my iPhone mic lol.

https://www.facebook.com/vittuned/vi...7067570504909/

Interesting. So how does it handle traction control? Also closed loop traction control, would traction control be active regardless closed or open loop? Doesn't the gtr have closed loop boost control?

Sorry if I come of as questioning you, I am curious what all this means/how it functions vs the Oem/ecutek route.

Thanks.

It's a driven target based on non driven speed and does not use throttle nor timing retard to control it (which both methods suck horrible). Closed loop in that it's got a feedback.

The GTR has closed loop boost control but it's a completely different ecu/car.

It's an advanced stand alone -- I could go on for days. I've spent years and years tuning OEM ecu solutions, some better than others. Some can be pushed quite far even. However none will ever touch what a good stand alone. And yes there are a lot of bad stand alones out there, lol.

Could you elaborate on what you mean by it's a target driven traction control with a feedback. So in other words my wheels are slipping what happens now? In a conventional system it cuts timing and throttle to cut power until traction is regained, what does the stand alone do different to regain traction?