Turbosmart Dual Port BPV With Stillen Kit
 

Okay so today I took out the BPV included by stillen (plastic :icon14:) and put in the turbosmart dual port valve, and the extra soft blue spring that I've read people had to use. After a lot of slight turns dialing in the adjustment, i finally got a strong steady idle.

I noticed that when the valve wasn't quite dialed in, I wouldn't get the initial gauge sweep even though no SES lights or anything came on. I got it in a position now where it idles steady and gives me the gauge sweep and all.

However, when I free rev the engine, it still bogs down just a little below idle. Since I'm so close I don't want to adjust it the wrong way and lose the steady idle lol. Should I tighten or loosen it bit by bit to get it right?

Appreciate any possible help :tup:

Gauge sweep? You don't have your bpv hooked to a gauge do you?

No, by gauge sweep I'm referring to the tach/oil temp/voltage when you first power the car on. they go from min to max except they didn't when the idle was rough.

Not sure if this means anything even, just thought I'd mention

Is it possible it requires a retune compared to the bosch style bpv? I feel like it's so close but I just can't get it perfect

gonna bring the laptop out tomorrow and grab a data log

Just keep turning it 1/2 a turn more and more hard until it doesn't dip below idle. Its really easy to adjust. Do you have a a/f gauge?

Okay sounds like I've been on the right track then. I don't have an a/f or boost gauge yet, been using uprev to log a/f although I know that's not the most accurate method.

Wanted to make sure that tighter was the way to go :tiphat:

Cool. Yeah you are on the right path. You are probably 1/2 turn to 1 1/2 turns from being spot on from the sounds of it.

Think I got it ! Went just a bit less than 1 full turn (1/4 turn at a time) and now it seems to be holding steady after rev. Will take it for a datalog and test drive tomorrow :) Love the sound!

Guess I made the thread a bit hastily, was panicking when I couldn't get it after a few hours of tweaking lol.

Thanks

Good deal. Hey I was the same way when I first installed mine.

I would also like to know this about the retune....I have read about this upgrade... Still trying to grip it all...I know that the BPV on the Stillen unit just recirculates the excess boost back into the system versus changing out to the Turbosmart Dual BOV allows you to vent to atmosphere.....so the question I have Is it just cosmetic/aesthetic for sound, or does it improve performance over the bosch style By Pass Valve....There's been different opinions about this....I know a handful of guys have done it and recall Diego@Vossen citing that Kyle Millen even had this upgrade on his Black 370Z....but Stillen never really gave a clear answer on the performance aspect of the BPV vs BOV....

Do any of you have a pic of where this part goes when replacing the stillen unit?

Your plastic bosch one is good up to 10psi. You can take the hoses off too but it will run like crap just like the turbosmart one would if you don't put the recirc hoses on.

Unless your going 11+ psi then it's just for sound.

Yep exactly what Top said. Unless you plan on the impeller upgrade or smaller pulleys it is basically just for sound. It is definitely a higher quality part for sure though. Billet aluminum vs. plastic. Don't know how accurate or true this is but my former tuner told me that it also helps to release some heat from the intake tube that the supercharger produces. Sounds like it makes sense but don't know that it is proven.

Why would that make sense? Unless he is saying that since its metal it is acting as a heat sink and draws heat away from the pipe, the pipe that is in a very hot engine bay.

Doesn't make sense to me.

I have one on my set up and Stillen actually had to retune the car with it till it worked properly with the Stillen SC

Yeah top he could have just been blowing smoke but it sounded legit at the time. Made it sound like opening the door to an oven would help the temperature of the air inside the intake decrease.

That's interesting. Never heard of having to get retuned.

I can take a pic for you a bit later today, but if you look under the charge pipe about 12" away from where it connects to the supercharger outlet, you'll see the recirculation hoses and the plastic bosch/denso BPV. It's a very easy swap and I didn't even have to remove the charge pipe completely to access the area.

Will be taking the z out for a drive in about half an hour, will post my conclusion!

This is interesting, from most people I've heard its just a matter of fine-tuning the adjustment on the BPV. Guess I will find out today :driving:

I know that the Stillen demo car currently has one of these installed, and I imagine for their demo purposes they use their full CARB legal kit/tune. So with that assumption I just guessed if they could use it on the canned tune then why should I need a retune?

That was my logic anyways haha we will see where it gets me

Update : drove it about 30 miles. It's so close to perfect, I still have a little sputtering on decel but going to tighten it up a bit more once it cools down so I don't burn my arm :tup:

Pics would be great....post some Vids if u have the time...I'm taking it that this is a direct bolt on easy replacement?

You do not need to retune.

This is what I did, install the BPV. Remove the cap on the side to vent to atmosphere.

hook everything back up, start the car. See how much your piston opens, I adjusted mine so the piston was fully opened at idle.

turn the car off, discount your battery, install the cap on the side. hook your battery up after 15 mins, and it should be good to go!

its too tight, from the sounds of it, the chatter is the piston moving up and down.. loosen it off more.

Direct bolt on, very easy to replace. All you have to do is undo 2-3 hose clamps, and pull the vacuum line off the old Bosch style unit. Then put the turbosmart directly in it's place and get to adjusting that spring tension!

Here's a pic I took of the location, the red circle highlights where it is (under the pipe) and the second pic is my best attempt to snap a pic of it installed. If you want any other info that I'm skipping over just let me know

EDIT: Whoops lol sorry, pics are huge so I won't embed them but links are below

http://i.imgur.com/pNhZM9m.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ki8khXp.jpg

Thanks for the tip! Yeah I think my last round of tightening I ended up going to the max it'll tighten... Going to try monitoring the piston the way you mentioned you set it.

At this point I know I'm close. Just sucks that due to the location I have to wait to adjust it after a drive, that engine bay gets HOT :icon17:

Another day, another opportunity to dial it in correctly :) Let's see how this round goes!

I did this mod WAY back ( 3 years ago) when I had mine, No retune need but took some time to dial it in also. LOVED the noise when shifting tho, Had a guy in a 911 GO WHOA LOL:eek:

Okay so here's the current situation.

Valve is all the way tightened, can't get enough leverage to loosen without pulling it out and adjusting. Drove it to work as is with the valve all the way tight. Car is still dropping below idle (to around 500rpm) when coming to a stop after cruising in the city, then its a bit jumpy until it settles at idle again. Also sometimes when at part throttle,the valve opens up around 4000rpm and I really have to push the accelerator to get it to close.

Are these symptoms of being too tight ? Or do I need to add spacer to the blue spring for more tension?

Edit: also got p0131 and p0151 too rich but I think that's from when I first started adjusting it from full soft. Reset to see if it comes back

What? it shouldn't open at 4000 rpm, do you have it hooked up right? at 4000rpm you have no vaccum, so it shouldn't open. inless boost is pushing it opened, but I doubt that,

This is because its too tight, its not opening at idle, your ECU is reading low air. The ecu Is dumping fuel, causing a rich fuel trim.

You can take the BPV right out, hook it up to your manifold line, take the cap off, start the car, adjust until the piston is fully opened. put the cap back on. put the BPV back on the charge pipe, discount your battery for 15 mins and hook it back up.

I'd have to search for my thread but I thought I used the red spring :/ .. Plus for what EVO said tho. Wish I know when I did mine I was driving around and adjusting it :/

100% sure it is hooked up correctly, used the same hoses that were on the Bosch valve. Might have to swap the Bosch valve back in and try adjusting it the way you've suggested, seems like much less of a headache.

The fact it was opening over 4k rpm is what made me think I had to go tighter. My logic told me the boost was overpowering the spring. I guess this is wrong though? Or maybe the blue spring is too soft?

I'm on stock cats, last dyno showed just over 9lbs of boost.

Before lunch I'm going to take a look at the valve while its idle and see if it is indeed closing. Pretty sure its holding open though.

Really appreciate the help guys

Edit : seems at the current tight setting the piston is about 80% open at idle. I can see a bit of it peeking through the hole. What's weird is when I go softer, it idles worse. Should I reset the computer (disconnect battery) after each adjustment?

Yes reset after adjustment, so your fuel trims relearn.

I would go back to the stock spring it came with, reason is.. we know it works!

Remember! it might take a 4-5 mins for the ecu to find its target AFR, adjust out of the car, until its fully opened. Put back together and allow it to idle for a few minutes to flatten out your idle.

Okay I honestly hadn't been resetting with each adjustment, just reset when I first swapped the Bosch unit out. Will try again using your method , sounds like it should work !

There's no way you need a retune. I swapped my turbosmart out with a Vortech mondo race. That thing vents 4 Times the air the Bosch does and twice as much as the turbosmart could.

You guys think the turbosmart sounds good?...you should hear the vortech.

2 week old turbosmart dual port bpv for sale. Comes with 3 different psi springs.

where was this last week lol :ugh2:

Vids Please.....tried researching on YouTube but couldn't find it....

Look for the guys running the 350s with the vortech kit. That's where I heard it first hand.

Okay, I just don't understand why this valve is so difficult to get working right on my car. I followed your recommendation EVO and adjusting with a vac line out of the car, ended up having to trim the spring a tiny bit to get the piston wide open at idle. While this setting held idle great, the valve wasn't closing off on accel and car basically wouldn't pass 2500rpm. Tightened it some but its still venting off early. Part throttle driving the car went into limp mode, assuming cause it detects a massive air leak? No SES or warnings though.

Car is also running pig rich, leaving soot everywhere.

I'm usually up to the challenge of tinkering until I get things right, but I'm honestly considering going back to the sh*tty plastic valve. I don't want to harm the engine by running too rich..

Before that, I'm going to drop in the pink spring just to see how it acts with a stiffer spring. I've tried going softer and softer and softer but with no luck. Currently she drives great on the highway under heavy load, but getting it right for light throttle around the city is the tough part..

Any luck getting it dialed in Xo? How many springs does this thing come with? From what ive read it seems that theres more thane one spring and that they're color coded.... which one is the right one to use for our cars?

Haven't had too much time to tinker with it since Thursday, work has been super busy. Finally put some time aside today to get this figured out (hopefully).

The actual turbosmart valve will only come with one spring, and it's red/pink. I read on another thread either here or on myg37, that somebody had to use the blue spring (softer) with their setup. Trying to be ahead of the curve I figured I'd order the valve and the blue spring. I think my mistake was starting with the blue spring, I should have popped it in with the pink spring and played with that one first.

A bit later I'm heading to the garage and swapping in the pink spring and adjusting it from there, will post with updates later! Hopefully I can save anybody considering this valve in the future the same headache :tup: