Realistically Speaking...How much $$$ would I actually need.
 

Im looking at the F.I TT Kit the complete kit.
The kit was priced at 9,999 last time I checked.
But with install, tune, dyno, basically fool proofing, would 20k do it?
And im talking about the stage 2 Kit.

What happened to the bike?

I got the bike already.

Oh wait, you mean after my spill?

I fixed it and now I'm Valentino Rossi.

Thanks.

When I spoke with Tony a few months back I got a ballpark figure of roughly 18 grand for everything, so you're in the right range.

That's 18k if they do the install?

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As far as which kit, I can't remember, it was the option that was the best for daily driving.

Yes for them to install and tune. Give them a call and take a few minutes to discuss your options. Great team

The Minsu does not let peasants touch the Z, the minsu touches the peasants

Just wondering. Why not go straight to the source? Also, you can get a quote on the shops hourly rate and number of hours they will charge you.

Or PM Hotrodz and TerribleONE for a rough estimate. Probably more reasonable and better value here in CA since SpecialtyZ and F.I. did the actual install.

Well said. Peasant.

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Wanted a community based answer first. Tony be busy makin tt kits, I'll just throw money at him once I get the ballpark.

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Budget 22-24k for the TT, to do it right and have plenty of room for more power later down the road. Just for you Minsu I'll try and find the build I was looking at doing for a properly done reliable 500 whp.
http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ggestions.html
You can cut some costs from there, or add some.

Quafe LSD
Aeromotice Stealth 340lph Fuel Pump (or 255 but for more power you'll have to upgrade)
Goodridge SS Brake Line Set
Test Pipes
TT Tuner Kit GT28R .86 Housing External BOV (From the GTM days but the specs offer good upgradability)
Nissan VQ37 SP Line Injector Set: 6x1050cc SP Line Saturated /High Impedance (optional but will have to upgrade stock for more power)
OS Giken Twin Plate w/ Damper Touring w/ Hard Cover w/ Upgraded Slave Cylinder (you can go cheaper here, even stick with stock and just fix the slave cylinder, you will need a new clutch if you add any more torque)
34 Row Oil Cooler + block off plate for cooler weather
CSF Radiator
AFR/Boost/Oil Psi Gauges AEM Digital Gauges
Exhaust Heat Wrap
Uprev and Tuning
Choice of catback

Suspension (aka no point in making power if you can't put it down!) Budget additional 5K or so
KWv3
Sway Bars Whiteline, stillen, hotchkiss
Front Camber Arms, Rear Camber Arms, Rear Traction Arms
Upgraded diff and engine mounts (optional)
Brake pads and fluid (carbotech XP10/8 + RBF600)
Better tires

Optional
3.33 Final Drive
IC Thermal Coating

Finally and most importantly, even if you do everything right, things can go catastrophically wrong.
Have an in case **** budget. ~6-8k of funds to at least get your Z on the road again.

so including the Z price, you're looking at a used gtr range 0.o

Phuck that, buy another Z for that money!!!

:iagree:
There's a solid $5-7k in there that isn't really a necessity with the kit, but you're pretty much there. Putting a turbo on a Z requires at least $15k no matter what kit you go with.

A TT Z is more fun than a GTR. It's better looking and comes with a proper transmission. Just because we're on a Nissan site doesn't mean we are all GTR fanboys.

I like the GTR looks better :tiphat:

Plenty of people seem to like it for some reason. It's an impressive performance achievement, but a car that costs that much should be beautiful. The GTR just looks like an engineering exercise.

never driven a gtr so can't comment on that :D
i think the gtr is ugly honestly lol
:iagree:

wait, wat happened to the gokart project?

That's why I never did it. Though IMO the Z looks much better then a GTR and with a used GTR power mods are not any cheaper so...
I ended up spending money on some small NA upgrades, a real sound system, appearance type stuff, and best of all track time. That track time showed me that ~300whp is plenty to learn on.

Oh and and the pricing was done with NYC labor rates ~100/hr
There are plenty of places to cut costs but that plan was for high reliability, easy drive ability, and things to save money later for future power.

I guess it just love that iconic front bumper, and the lights on the back

:yum:

:iagree:

It's not cheap, you are looking at around at least 15K in parts plus tuning. This is if you install everything yourself. I would put the 3K in labor on a lift for my new garage and do the install myself.

If only my hands knew the workings of a car as opposed to keeping a human alive I would do the same spooler, unfortunately, I can keep you alive but my car would die faster than you can say boost.

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Threw money at it and it just fell to the ground.

That project turned into either a new ducati or a tt kit :)

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ahhh! :tup:

LOL, don't damage those hands bud. We all need to live a bit longer.

If you had 20K in hand, you should be good. Just don't go overboard and be ready for an engine issue later.

Now from the reading I did on the 250 page thread of the FI Kit, they had a kit making over 600HP which im assuming is the complete kit with stage 3? But would that mean I need to build the motor at that point? Im not sure what Tony meant by, new internals.

Think that was a stag 2. The stag 3 is what I hear someone with a carbon Fiber bodied car is getting here real soon.

A part of me feels like the maintenance is hard to keep up with?
I mean the reason I wanted a "fool Proof" is cause well...im quite adept with cars. I mean I can do my own oil changes and i guess know enough about the transmission part of the car but the engine is something I never looked at.
It turns me off, but boost turns me on.

so the stage 2 can make 600+ on pump 91? I gotta take another look at the dyno chart on the post brb.

I have done it before with my 1975 280zt. It is most enjoyable when it is right, which is 90% of the time. The other 10% sucks. If you stay with the lower Stage 1 kit, you will be more reliable. How reliable, not sure. If I had a TT kit I could tell you in a couple of years since I put about 30K miles on my car a year driving back and forth to work. 100k miles with no issue would be oustanding reliablilty. It can be done if you have the right tuning, supporting mods, and TT Kit.

Think it was 93 oct. You can always dial the Boost controller back when not on race fuel or poorer fuel quality like 91.

Those sound more like E85 numbers. A 91 octane tune is going to be a hell of a lot less power than that.

And those are the reasons why I'm going to LSX swap my car. 600hp from a 6.2 is easy mode.

Could be right, it may have been E85.

20k is plenty for this kit plus install and kit related supporting mods. That doesn't include stuff like LSD, suspension, etc. though.