TT Maintenance and Long term things NOOBS should know
 

So as the title implies, this thread is for those who are familiar with and have owned boosted cars long term to impart some knowledge onto us noobs who might be considering going that route. I have friends telling me that turbos are more complicated and when there are so many parts, there's higher chances that something, even it's small will break or come loose etc. TT is a huge investment so I listed a few questions I think novices might be curious about. Please add any other thoughts or things to consider/watch out for those considering TT.

What/how much maintenance is required for TT cars?

Do little things often get loose/break, etc. that noobs would have a hard time noticing and diagnosing which would result in shop time?

Can a good kit (like Fast intentions) just be installed and not worried about other than basic maintenance for years or worry-free driving?

Maintenance is a relative term along with cost associated, it could be as little as securing a single bolt you find lose to having a fuel issue or CEL pop up and taking a week or more to diagnosis.

As you add more moving parts to a system more is likely to break or cause problems. If someone can be aware and work ahead on doing continual inspections or check ups on the kit, engine, car, etc it helps in the long term to make life easier. Does not mean you won't be going down the freeway and have a major issue just pop up but during routine maintenance check every little part and I would say even more often than that (every week).

No kit can be worry free, the moment you put it on the car you will need to be more aware of what is going on with the car. Is it running a little rough, is the idle off, major throttle lag, fluid under the car, usual sounds. The list goes on and on, it is not a light project to just throw on a SC/TT/T kit and call it a day.

You can NEVER boost a car that came naturally aspirated from the factory and just expect to do only regular maintenance and call it a day. You always need to check out all the little things before they become big things.

So a SC kit with much fewer parts would have less chances of things going wrong and would also be easier for a novice to learn to inspect for issues?

:iagree: with Dreamer and Chuck. I check my car constantly to make sure everything is tidy. Something as simple as a broken zip tie could lead to something catastrophic if that zip tie holds the vacuum line on your waste gate. I'm extremely thankful that I personally installed my kit so I know all the ins and outs. It gives you a leg up when troubleshooting because you know everything you did.

You also need to be pretty mechanically inclined to know if the issue you are having is an annoyance or critical to get taken care of now.

In theory...

A novice shouldn't be modifying a car this dramatically. It's not novice territory. You need to know WHY things happen, not just what part goes where. Start doing your homework. Corky Bell wrote a book on turbocharging, and one on supercharging. Go read both of those.

Since you're asking about supercharger kits, I'm assuming you mean Stillen. They have more popped motors than anyone else. That's not "less chance of things going wrong".

I have not owned any turbocharged cars before this one, but turbo diesel trucks for about 25 years and as stated above, stick to a schedule on changing all fluids and filters and know your car. You don't have to be mechanically inclined, but you ought to know what makes your engine work like you were a mechanic. I read everything I can and spend time talking to people that know more than I do about cars. Just be vigilant and pray you have keeper engine. I know plenty of folks that have N/A Zs that have way more issues than those of us who are boosted. ;)

For anyone that is wanting to boost a VQ. Just make sure you have money saved for those just in case moments.

Anything can happen when you're under boost.

Few common practices.

Change your oil every 2500 to 3k miles.

Take a flash light while the car is rack, look for leaks.

Check hoes make sure they're tight.

Don't use your 500whp VQ as a DD, it's not made to drive everyday.(the ones that do know what to expect if something goes wrong)

Not only the engine takes a total, but clutch/rear end/shocks ect.. All need to be checked every time you put her in the air.

Check boost leaks annually, and also hire a professional if need be to make the final call on inspections.

Have to think of your boosted VQ as a Rolex. If you wear it where would you want to go, and what conditions it will be in. Obviously you're not going to put her in the sand or water. If so than boost isn't for you.

:rofl2: Sometimes autocorrect gets it so right.

Since you're asking about supercharger kits, I'm assuming you mean Stillen. They have more popped motors than anyone else. That's not "less chance of things going wrong".[/QUOTE]

From my research on the forums, it seems like those are all from modding the kit for more power. It seems that the kit is reliable in stock form (with a custom tune) so if one is happy with that (approx 410whp, 300wtrq) then it would be fine.

The real question is would I be happy with that. The question on the turbo front is can I justify the extra cost as well as learn enough quickly enough to feel comfortable with the risks involved with it.

HP is addictive. No matter how much you have, it'll start feeling slow in no time. With the Stillen kit you will be locked into the power level. With a turbo set up there are always upgrades for more power.

I notice you have a 7AT so unless you are also willing to pony up the additional funding to strengthen that tranny, turbo is out for you as it'll break.

Even at stock power levels that kit is playing with fire IMO. The maf being before the compressor and intercooler scares the absolute hell out of me. Especially considering you'll be running 91 octane.

lmfao

:icon18::leghump:

aint that the truth. 600 whp and i want more :driving:

Boost makes the hoes get tight?:excited:

As Chuck has stated, and/or in another words, If you don't know the mechanics and the "whys" behind forced induction (either turbo or supercharger) then you will be on a long and painful road. Forced induction does not mean get on the gas as often as you can and expect for everything to be all peachy, especially if the engine was converted from N/A to F/I.
Besides the extra power there are some "unwanted extras" that comes with it I.E. extra heat (plenty of it), extra stress, extra pressure (either positive or negative), extra wear and tear, frequent and more periodic inspections, extra care on other areas and the list goes on and on.
The main difference as to be "worry/maintenance free" which is a lie, is the type of system is installed. Is it an e-bay kit installed in your garage or is it a well know and reputable company doing the engine build and taking in consideration most of the possible "can go wrong" aspects into the equation.
I hear young kids talking so much about "x amount of boost" and they think that is all needed to know. Boost amounts is actually irrelevant, for example; 8 or 9 lbs of boost in a well build engine can outperform an e-bay quick install kit that is "rated" at making 15 lbs of boost.
Do your homework, don't be afraid of asking questions and you will see what most of us are saying here. By no means, I'm discouraging you from going force induction, (force induction is as addictive as sex) but the issue is not as simple as "install and forget".

Before I purchased my first f/I I read boosted noob thread in my350z, and than googled all the info I could about how things worked.

Not only you will have a better understanding, but also save money in the process.

Learn something new everyday just by reading other people's experience. F/I isn't hard to own just have to know if it's right for you.

I'll read up on it since I am waiting for finished pricing on the Fats Intentions 7at upgrade anway. If I did go TT, it would definitely be the FI kit installed and tuned by them/Specialty Z. They seem to have the best designed, most efficient and most thought out kit.

As far as not DD a 500HP and treating it like a Rolex, I firmly disagree. A properly build project will be just that. Some may question it's reliability, but that is why you regularly inspect AND do preventative maintenance. Then again if you need that type of pep talk, maybe this type of undertaking shouldn't be on your list of things to do.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

I pretty much daily drove my TT e85 370z, 9k miles in 12 months.

I really did not have to do anything outside of the realm of normal performance car ownership. I really focused on these few things:

-Oil changes 3k miles. Even with synthetic, i ran e85, which has a habit of invading fuel(which it BARELY did), so I changed my mobil 1 5w20 every 3k.
-UOA-blackstone. I did it twice, read like it should, unremarkable.

-Check for leaks? I had none, not an issue, car is parked in clean garage 24/7. OIl drips would be very apparent if there was any.

-afr/fuel pressure. My AFR never really moved much, I preferred monitoring fuel pressure because I was on e85. I would notice slight dippage on freeway on/offramps(huge sweeping right turns) and learned that fueling issues would be apparent on my fuel pressure way before afr, if any afr changes.

-Oil Levels. These can be a tad tricky because turbos and lines hold more oil. After oil change, i filled with 7 quarts. Then I would start car, come up to temp, park on level service then wait 15-.30 minutes and recheck level. This is pretty much standard procedure for any car, but it is easy to get fooled into thinking you are very low oterwise.

-Fuel level. Being on e85 and my power levels, I found I can actually get the car to fuel starve with some major acceleration, starting at HALF a tank. Yep, I wqould see that pressure dip and thank nissan for an incredible fuel tank design. I made a note to stay above 1/2.

Your mileage may vary, but thats all I did. I had never a second where the car was down and out. Then again, I am that kind of putz that pays someone to swap a clutch, the most technical of my abilities on a car was a header install haha! But i always thought it was my duty to monitor the car as much as I can and promptly tell a pro if I noticed something had changed.

I don't have a problem with monitoring and doing checkups, just need to learn what needs to be checked on and how often. I figure if I do it, I can read up on it and ask Tony and Seb a lot of questions.

That's your opinion and I respect that. The hard truth is anything that you're boosting is a gamble.

Yes they do have cars with tunes/parts that easily have high miles. I'm 17k miles under boost 0 issues.

Rolex statement was meant as a awareness of condition. Beating up a boosted VQ daily is fine just like wearing the watch, but if it breaks get ready to pay.

Modified anything is a gamble. It has it's rewards and pitfalls. I have had my modified 1975 280zt since 1992. That is why I haven't jumped on the 370ztt bus. I am just a little leary and remember my challenges before. Did I loose a motor with older car, yes I did.

True and I agree with with the gamble, however I did DD my twin turbo car without any major issues until I had to let it go. The only issues I had were TSB related and a CSF radiator upper hose connection that would leak after time. I had all of those issues sorted. I also had over 30k miles put on the car with that twin turbo installed. Did I dog it.........no. Did I baby it............no. I did frequent regular maintenance and paid close attention to any changes. You have to be "one with your machine" in a matter of speaking and I took the time to do that.

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The DD comment is stated as a opinion. GTR, bmw M3, and C7 z06 all have factory boost. That being said they're made from the factory to handle boosted power. VQ's are nothing different, but we use aftermarket boost, and tune.

The foot note in my original post simply said, "for the ones that do already know what to expect".

Gratz that you DD and driver her correctly. Remember just because we didn't have issues doesn't mean the next person will.

Quick example: friend of mine had the 1st boosted VQ37VHR in my state. Put 50k plus boosted miles 0 issues. Just sold it last week and their Transmisson blew. Just gamble of how its driven that makes the different. Having a side car will increase the life of your boosted car. That's the point I was trying to make. Not bashing the ones that DD that don't, or can't afford another vehicle.

Even at 930rwhp and I want more.... Nah just kidding that much power will scare the **** out of you trust me! Coming up on cars like they are in reverse and doing 60mph!

Honestly, having a boosted Z and a NA Z is really weird going from one car to the other lol... I get out of the 450zTT and into the nismo and its like whats broken... the 450z has 3 times the power!!! and the nismo feels like a damn miata!!!

Hmm, SC + 2015 nismo body kit and a few grand to spare (maybe a LSD) or FI TT kit

930rwhp un-useable power. Do get me wrong they're such a thing as to much and not enough. 1k hp z is :happydance:, but can't be applied in normal conditions. The next step I would go is making it a AWD for the TX mile.

Not even a question - FI TT Kit:tup:

Actually it is usable power... I know first hand with proper throttle modulation this car is stupid fast. I can get out and in trouble very easily and controllable!

One thing I do like about the 4.5L mated to GT35R turbos is that my 4th gear dyno pull looks like a supercharger line... straight all the way to redline. The car makes continuous and linear power throughout the rpm range.

Obviously traction can be an issue and with this much power it takes skilled hands to drive the car... Hence why I dont let anyone drive it... My wife doesnt even drive it...

If you aren't getting traction the power isn't usable. I cant even go WOT in 1-3rd when I am on my "kill tune".

There is no comparison. FI TT kit all the way and an LSD would be a plus!

LOL, when I set my boost gauge to zero, I still make 7lbs of boost and that is enough to spin the wheels through 3rd gear if I stab it. Don't get me wrong I agree with bullitt, you got to manage the throttle.

To follow up from our phone conversation from earlier...

With our kit routine maintenance is as follows:

Every 3,000 Miles
*Perform an oil change. If you are on E85, I recommend doing the oil change right at 2,500.
*Check all oil feed, oil drain and coolant line connections to ensure there are no leaks.
*Check vacuum line connections to make sure there are no leaks.
*Check intercooler tubing connection points to ensure the T-bolt clamps are tight and the tubes are in their perspective places.
*Check the silicone couplers to ensure they are not rubbing or have excessive wear.
*Tighten all connection points in the exhaust system. At that time, look it over to ensure there are no leaks.

Every 15,000 Miles perform all of the above and...
*Ensure all drain holes and air delivery hoses are in good working order. Make sure the heat from the engine compartment has not created a "dry rot" effect. Extremely unlikely that this would be the case!

Every 30,000 Miles perform all of the above and...
*Remove the down pipes/exhaust transition elbows to visually inspect the turbine side of the turbocharger. What you don't want to see is excessive "wet" or oil. In the event that you do, it means your seals in the CHRA (Center Housing Rotating Assembly) are starting to deteriorate and you will want to have the CHRA rebuilt.

In addition to all of the above, at each oil change, look the car over. Make sure the sway bar connections and suspension is in good working order.

At the end of the day, most of this is preventative maintenance. It's always good to air on the side of caution for peace of mind.

Thanks.
-Tony

To each is own. If you can make double the whp than I have useable you're a better driver then me.

You given me the chance to drive your car at max tune I would decline. awd or solid axle that be another story. Independent suspension doesn't allow us to apply that kind of power. GTR with 900awhp runs 9's all day long, lucky to get a Z to break 10's.

(Sorry for going off topic) 500 to 600whp is the sweet spot.

The funny thing about this thread is that we were talking about maintaining a boosted beast of a Z. It doesn't matter how much power is usable or even how much power you are putting down. The things that matter are:

1. Are you allowing proper warm-up and cool-down cycles?
2. Are you regularly inspecting the items that you installed as well as the normal maintenance items?
3. Do you have a feeling for what it feels like when it is running right, so that you can feel if something is different?
4. Do you have things in place to monitor various functions that give you indications of problems?
5. If this is your first rodeo, have you done your research AND talked to the pros?

I agree that stuff happens and you cannot prevent every failure, but you can do a lot to minimize the chances of it being catastrophic. These things seem like common sense to me, but everyone has their own opinion and/or perception of how things are.

Will the OEM sport package viscous LSD be able to put the power down or is a real LSD like quaife needed?

The stock LSD is useless. The car will drive way better with an aftermarket LSD and don't forget the whiteline bushings that alone makes a lot of difference.