Not even a question - FI TT Kit:tup:

Actually it is usable power... I know first hand with proper throttle modulation this car is stupid fast. I can get out and in trouble very easily and controllable!

One thing I do like about the 4.5L mated to GT35R turbos is that my 4th gear dyno pull looks like a supercharger line... straight all the way to redline. The car makes continuous and linear power throughout the rpm range.

Obviously traction can be an issue and with this much power it takes skilled hands to drive the car... Hence why I dont let anyone drive it... My wife doesnt even drive it...

If you aren't getting traction the power isn't usable. I cant even go WOT in 1-3rd when I am on my "kill tune".

There is no comparison. FI TT kit all the way and an LSD would be a plus!

LOL, when I set my boost gauge to zero, I still make 7lbs of boost and that is enough to spin the wheels through 3rd gear if I stab it. Don't get me wrong I agree with bullitt, you got to manage the throttle.

To follow up from our phone conversation from earlier...

With our kit routine maintenance is as follows:

Every 3,000 Miles
*Perform an oil change. If you are on E85, I recommend doing the oil change right at 2,500.
*Check all oil feed, oil drain and coolant line connections to ensure there are no leaks.
*Check vacuum line connections to make sure there are no leaks.
*Check intercooler tubing connection points to ensure the T-bolt clamps are tight and the tubes are in their perspective places.
*Check the silicone couplers to ensure they are not rubbing or have excessive wear.
*Tighten all connection points in the exhaust system. At that time, look it over to ensure there are no leaks.

Every 15,000 Miles perform all of the above and...
*Ensure all drain holes and air delivery hoses are in good working order. Make sure the heat from the engine compartment has not created a "dry rot" effect. Extremely unlikely that this would be the case!

Every 30,000 Miles perform all of the above and...
*Remove the down pipes/exhaust transition elbows to visually inspect the turbine side of the turbocharger. What you don't want to see is excessive "wet" or oil. In the event that you do, it means your seals in the CHRA (Center Housing Rotating Assembly) are starting to deteriorate and you will want to have the CHRA rebuilt.

In addition to all of the above, at each oil change, look the car over. Make sure the sway bar connections and suspension is in good working order.

At the end of the day, most of this is preventative maintenance. It's always good to air on the side of caution for peace of mind.

Thanks.
-Tony

To each is own. If you can make double the whp than I have useable you're a better driver then me.

You given me the chance to drive your car at max tune I would decline. awd or solid axle that be another story. Independent suspension doesn't allow us to apply that kind of power. GTR with 900awhp runs 9's all day long, lucky to get a Z to break 10's.

(Sorry for going off topic) 500 to 600whp is the sweet spot.

The funny thing about this thread is that we were talking about maintaining a boosted beast of a Z. It doesn't matter how much power is usable or even how much power you are putting down. The things that matter are:

1. Are you allowing proper warm-up and cool-down cycles?
2. Are you regularly inspecting the items that you installed as well as the normal maintenance items?
3. Do you have a feeling for what it feels like when it is running right, so that you can feel if something is different?
4. Do you have things in place to monitor various functions that give you indications of problems?
5. If this is your first rodeo, have you done your research AND talked to the pros?

I agree that stuff happens and you cannot prevent every failure, but you can do a lot to minimize the chances of it being catastrophic. These things seem like common sense to me, but everyone has their own opinion and/or perception of how things are.

Will the OEM sport package viscous LSD be able to put the power down or is a real LSD like quaife needed?

The stock LSD is useless. The car will drive way better with an aftermarket LSD and don't forget the whiteline bushings that alone makes a lot of difference.

Yeah, Tony mentioned Whiteline bushings. He said I'd be okay running 305s in the rear with the stock vlsd and the bushings. What do you guys think?

Bushing definitely helps things. I noticed a big difference. I can't fit a 305 so I'm still undertreaded

305s in the rear are a good choice and if Tony said it is fine to use the stock vlsd then :tup: i take he's recommendation!

Wonder if I can fit 265s up front to match the drop I will be getting from changing the rear tires. Man, hope I can make it out when Cycy pick sup his car so I can get a ride and help make my decision.

Lot of Zs run 265 upfront