RobiSpec Harness Bar - Where to buy?
 

I'm coming up empty... :tiphat:

Looks like you'll need to contact RobiSpec directly according to the last page:

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...r-install.html

Subd

Emailed RobispecScott@gmail.com

Will post when I hear back.

It's worth mentioning that it doesn't necessarily have to be a Robispec. All the harness bar threads are over a year old. Has there been anything new shown up?

Akuma Motorsports was another contender but they stated that they ceased production according to their thread. Not a whole lot of options when it comes to the harness bar.

Talk to Robin (BGTV8). He was able to help me out with a kickass harness bar.

Do you have any pics? What seats did you end up going with??

I haven't taken pics of mine yet, but you can see the harness bar in this thread http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...tml#post731369 It keeps the harness at a better angle than the factory replacement bars. This doesn't matter if the bar is for show.

I'm not saying what seats until I receive them :p

I like that much better than replacing the factory bar. The factory angle always worried me quite a bit. PM'd him.

did you ever get one?

Ordered the one GaleForce mentioned above.

Here it is painted and installed,

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2930/...bab4a575_c.jpgUntitled by J M Gale, on Flickr

How much?

I'm putting a group buy together for an actual 370 Harness Bar(Similar to one pictured in Galeforce's photo). I ran one all 2014 with the one in the actual photo (purchased from owner in Chicago). I wanted to fully try it out first, fitment, install, and obviously support.

Harness bar holds very strong, very tight, and made out of VERY heavy steel. Very high quality.

Each one is 100% handcrafted and individually made, so costs aren't cheap, but a VERY high quality alternative to doing a full all out cage.

***The OEM support bar location is not recommended. As previously stated, the angle downward from your shoulders/seat holes is MAX 20%, which your OEM support bar location does not measure and is not ideal for actual use. Not to mention, the OEM support bar is not nearly strong enough to support seat belts, needing to have a complete steel bar replacement to even consider running a harness.

I don't know what the point of all these harness bars are, you know if you roll the car your F'd right? You're better off with the factory belts until you get hard core and then you need a full roll bar if you still are gonna occasionally street it or a cage and it will be track only.

Also DE has a robispec bar up in the classifieds section.

Please contact AK if you are going to launch a group buy first.

You are correct, a harness bar will not help crush points when "rolling your car", but its not meant to. Its about securing you in your seat from sliding back and forth, allowing you to gain FULL COMPLETE focus on the road itself vs constantly readjusting yourself in your seat. It also helps distribute the stress on your body vs having 1 belt taking all of the force, you have 2.

A harness is day and night vs an OEM seat belt. I autocross routinely almost every weekend of the summer, and when not autocrossing I'm at a road course event. I have go-pro vids of my oem belt vs my harness mounted behind me as well as on my helmet itself(went 3 years with an OEM belt before finally doing a harness w/ belt).

There's no way of getting around your knee bruises from the door/inner pillar besides knee pads, but watching your shoulders/head shift limitations from OEM to a harness isn't even funny. The amount of focus you can retain on the course is literally day and night. I knew within the first 30 seconds that my harness and bar was easily one of my top add-ons for the track.

The harness bar is the added support you need to safely/correctly mount a hardness belt. Also, the hardness bar allows you to still retain your OEM belts, making it easy to hop in and out for that quick drive around town.

Your OEM support bar in the rear is...just that, a support bar. Its not strong enough to hold a belt. Replacing the OEM bar(Robispec) is not optimal as the max you want the mount to be is 20% from the seat openings.

Did you know that that if you are wearing a 4 point harness, sitting in a racing seat and roll the car you are going to be paralized/killed? It will hold your spine straight up in the seat

Its all in the install my friend, and if you are this concerned about rolling your car, I highly suggest you do a full cage :tup:

You know that if you do a full cage it isn't safe to drive without a helmet and all the belts on (which is illegal in every state). some body hits you at 15mph and your noggen hits one of the bars and your done.

There are race safety systems, there are street safety systems, there is currently nothing in between.

don't even mention bar safety foam, because even the cockpit stuff is rated to not break a HELMET not your skull

You are literally the only one in this thread talking about rolling your car and full cages.

We are talking about the best alternative to a full all out rollcage.

I know the point of a 4 point harness, I don't know the point of a harness bar. Also the way that thin steel bar is done is just like the subie/evo bar and in an acciden the two bolts lower to the belt snap, the bar rotates on the other two where the seat belts were and the occupant goes flying out the windshield. Has happened several times on and off the track on other cars.

Also I should note that 4 point harnesses are stupid and you will be F'd up if you crash, you need to have an anti submarine belt when using rigid mounted shoulder belts.

Throwing this in for some info http://www.ogracing.com/blog/2013/02...ing-harnesses/

1. You don't understand the point of the bar? The harness bar is meant for a safe and up to standard way/location to mount a harness.
2. I personally run the Schroth Anti-Submarine 6 point
3. The bar has no way of rotating in the 370. This is not an Evo/Subie. The 370's roofline is too low, and the support bar and actual subframe would never allow the bar to rotate around as you're suggesting.
4. Thank you for all of your concerns, any other questions I can answer or arguments you would like to throw my way, happy to help :)

1. No it's not. Paper thin sheet metal the bars attached to is not up to standard! It was never engineered to be used like that. Make that bar 3" solid steel, it doesn't matter. Run a cable out your front window and pull at least 4G's on that bar, bet the sheet metal tears like paper.

yup so driver + passenger + weight of the seat back + the weight of the belts * 6 applied to the bar where the harnesses connect and watch what happens. NO ONE actually crash tests these things to know what it is going to do in an accident. The amuse bar is a F'n death trap, the robispec bar is probably the closest thing to strong enough but in an accident who knows.

This is a pretty good bar that uses the factory mounting points. I am thinking about using it for autox. For $200 bucks its worth a try.
2009-2014 Nissan 370Z Cipher Racing Black Coating Custom Harness Bar [CPA5011HB-BK] - $229.00 : Cipher Auto!, Automotive Parts Accessories & Universal Racing Seats

Definintely not bad for the price, but few things stick out immediately to me(just my opinion):

-The bar looks like its right behind your head?resisting how far the seat goes back?
-The harness anchors are off centered?
-The structure of the mounting points look kind of half a$$ed, making up for lack of engineering and fitment
-The bar itself is actually 3 connecting bars (multiple screw connection points = weaker supporting bar)

I found this great harness bar, it's called the auotpower race rollbar

Yeah its right behind the seat but I don't think it limits how far you can recline. And if you have a bar what are you doing reclining back that far? :-)

Good point about the anchors being off centered, I didn't even notice that.

The mounting points arent perfect but I think they are better than that of the robi bar. I say that because those points are designed to be load bearing points and should be safe in a crash. If the bar is safe is a whole other question.

I actually completely disagree. The bar was very well engineered for this not to happen. All of the forces being applied to the bolts are in sheer, and the steel is 350mpa CDW roll cage tubing. If the lower bolts (M8, 130mm long, grade 12) and the spacers are used, the bar physically cannot pivot downward. Also, bolts actually replace OEM mounting points of the support bar to the frame(strongest points of the car), zero drilling/modifying needed.

Here are a few photos in the raw of the actual connection points. You'll see that they do not go into the "support bar" which is very thin which is not recommended to support harnesses, rather they go into the actual supporting joints to hold in the support bar which are much thicker. Also, they bar goes back far enough to fully be prevented from rotating downward in the event of an accident, so all of this talk about it rotating around in the event of an accident, is irrelevant.



Take a peak at the difference between the bar you posted and this one in the same raw stage. The bar is solid from end to end, and comes backward with sheer connection points focused on quality and safey.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ps34c4c2cf.jpg

That does look much better can't deny that.

I have no idea what you're talking about but that bar in the pic is a waste as there nothing holding the center from collapsing and again the robispec bar is not designed to be used as a harness bar because nissan did not engineer the mounting points to take a load like that. Anyone who runs anything besides a real harness bar mounted to a roll cage is a complete idiot and good luck living through a crash. I'm done talking about this retarded topic as it never dies.

when I see those pictures all i can think of is how thin those end brackets are

Yes, the bolts(Grade 12 & 130mm in length) go through the brackets, but they also all the way into the oem support bar. The OEM support bar in conjuntion with the brackets are bolted directly to the chasis of the car.

Another thing I want to point out is that I feel you guys may be missing, the bar literally cannot freely rotate downward without hitting(even if there were no bolts holding it to the brackets at all). The bolts themselves aren't all that is keeping the bar from rotating.

The reason why the OEM bar isn't up to standard to support harnesses themselves is the bar itself, not the chasis mounting points on the sides.

No i mean the seatbelt ends what is that angle sheet metal?

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I'm currently exploring options connecting the outsides (shortly after the B-pillar) directly to the strut tower, but with a bolt on option allowing people to have the option to add or not(not absolutely requiring you to modify your rear strut tower covers similar to the GT-SPEC strut bar). We are researching to see connection points and options that are optimal for strength, yet functional.

The steel plates securing to the B-pillars are 5mm thick.

The cage tubing is 4mm with 2mm thick wall.

Let me just put it this way, a harness bar needs to be able to support at least 24000 joules of impact force in a low speed collision or the equivalent of tying a rope attached the bar to 260kg weight and dropping it 9.4 meters. That would do for street duty.

in a racing situation we can increase that to 66,250 joules or the same weight dropped from 260Meters.

Edit: another thing to remember is that the factory belt location is designed to work with pretensioning belts so the impact force at the mount point is lower due to the longer time of impact as your body move against the belt, rigid belts will transfer more force to the mount bolts due to the decreased transfer time. Also the energy figures I posted are somewhat exaggerated as they assume a dead stop like if the car hit a wall head on and there is more that goes into it than that because if you hit side ways there will be less force on the bar but it would all be on one mount.

Not to stir up something new, but i just read through several harness bar/cage threads that all lead to the same place...argument and a dead stop.

I'm not looking for a bar or anything for street use. Does anyone know if someone has yet implemented a removable cage for the rear section of the Z? I'm thinking it's possible to weld in joint in certain spots behind the driver and use the rear child restraint port to develop a fully removable rear section. That way for street you can remove it and not die and for track you can keep from sliding around too much.

I'm heading to roll cage specialist early this new year to custom fab something for me, but just wondering if anyone has seen or done anything close to what i'm attempting to accomplish. Maybe it's possible, maybe not.

I had a "bolt in" cage installed in the spring. That being said there was some welding done on the rear strut tower and behind the seats on the floor. Each weld point contains about 6" of solid bar that uses some sort of intersecting cross point which ultimately is bolted together making the rest of the cage removable. For instance I can completely remove the rear portion of the cage by removing 8 screws, 2 at each mounting point. The points are as follows, one at each of the rear strut tower, one at each corner of the top of the main halo. When unbolted the rear section slides out of the hatch. The main halo is removable through the driver/ passenger doors. I know that is a lot at once, but ultimately, yes it can be done and can look very clean if done right.

I was in discussion with the speed shop that made mine about reproducing these for resale, but at this point it will have to wait until spring. If you're interested send me a PM.

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