:tup: :tiphat: THX JAR!! You da bestest!! :happydance:

Way to go team! lol It's like a pitstop... I burn in here with a fault and the crew comes to the rescue! :tiphat:

oh, btw, if anyone is interested, I have the local parts guy quoting the cost of the Cdn turn signal stalk with the foglight switch for those that are interested in going OEM for the foglight in the US...

:icon17: :tup:

IIRC, the best price I found was $118 shipped. But that's way low on the list of priorities at the moment.

Good luck, keep us updated

No s**t, put in the RJM clutch pedal on Sat and my back is finally getting better!

FIXED!!!

I removed the clutch switch, opened it up, sanded the two sets of contacts and reassembled the switch. I now have zero ohms between the pins while clutch is depressed and the car fires everytime!!!!

Thank you 370Z.com Pit Crew!!! ++++ to everyone for helping!

You could also adjust it too, I shortened mine a little bit

Boom. Now pull that steering lock fuse again!

ugh.... unfortunately, I have to leave it in until the new steering lock goes in this week or next.... Parts came in last week but I am waiting for an appointment with my favourite dealer.

Any thoughts as to what might be causing the problem on Tracie's 7AT?

I was looking at this diagram from the service manual


as well as the diagram on this website trying to figure it out 251 Switch :: Body Electrical :: Genuine Nissan Parts :: 370Z Parts (Z34) 2009-2013 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

There are two switches for each the brake and clutch pedals. One switch on each pedal assembly appears to be basically the same thing: 25320N is the brake part and 25320Q is the clutch - both are called 370Z SWITCH ASSY-ASCD CANCEL on the parts website. In the service manual, the one on the brake pedal assembly is called the ASCD Brake Switch, and it makes sense to me that this would be the culprit. What throws me off is the equivalent ASCD switch on the clutch pedal assembly is referred to as the Clutch Pedal Position Switch and does not appear to be the switch that wheee! fixed to solve his problem. Is it possible that the other switch on the brake pedal assembly (#8 Stop Lamp Switch in the service manual) is the switch responsible for allowing the vehicle to start?

First of all, the clutch switch may look identical to the ASCD switch.

Internally, the clutch switch is two sets of 'points' that do not make contact in the resting position. When you depress the clutch, the plunger goes into the switch and allows the two sets of 'points' to contact and create the closed loop required for ignition. Basically telling the car that the clutch is fully depressed.

The ASCD switch can be configured in exactly the opposite condition. Closed when at rest and open when pressed.

THEREFORE: Tracie's issue may indeed be the switch you are looking at . The one that determines that the brake pedal is fully depressed before allowing the car to start. At rest or pedal not pressed, the switch is resting open at the top of it's travel. When she steps on the brake to start the car, it closes the switch and changes state. Sometimes the contacts are fully touching with the pedal pressed and the car starts. At other times, like my clutch issue, the contacts or points have become oxidized and are not making full contact. I would pull the switch, open it, and sand the points lightly. That's all I did to fix mine!

Again, this is me hypothezising as I have not seen Tracie's issue before either. That and no one in Canada owns an auto.... :stirthepot:

There are 2 switches on the brake pedal as you found, one is the stop lamp switch and one is the brake pedal position switch. Both connect to the ECU via the BCM and it's not 100% clear which switch controls which function. For example pulling the stop lamp fuse disables the brake lights but also disables the throttle cut. The other one might be used for the park lock and start enable but that's just a guess.

I would test both brake switches with a multimeter for resistance.

I agree. However the starting issue would most likely be the one that releases the switch pressure when pushing the pedal. This should also be the one that controls the brake lights. Pedal pushed = okay to start and brake lights on.
The other switch would be for cruise control I would think. Letting the system know if the pedal was pushed to deactivate the cruise.... no?

:tiphat: I guess we'll start with the stop lamp switch and just take it out to see if there's anything malfunctioning.

It's all up to the ECU programming. Normally open vs normally closed doesn't a lot of difference in the world of electronics. In fact the switches may work together in such that they must be in agreement (opposite states for verification).