It would be a good place to look. I recall someone having switch issues on the forum. I don't remember if its the clutch switch or brake switch that was the problem in that case. Obviously you would be looking at both clutch switches, brake switch NA for your application.

I need a picture of the switch to make sure I am adjusting the right one. Can't download the manual on the military computers.. :shakes head:

do you know what you need out of the manual, maybe we can get that page to you in pdf.

EDIT: I can't download it here either, BUT-I have my ipad...let me see what I can do.

Nope-Safari won't download it. crap.
Where's Jar when you need him!!

JARRR!!!!

:icon18: lol, the efforts we go to for each other... :tiphat:

:tiphat: :hello:

This is the switch, hard to tell but the photo is from the iphone laying on the floor of the car....
I backed off the locking nut, and brought the microswitch closer to the pedal. The pedal has a plastic paddle that contacts the switch and it seems as though it had become somewhat recessed with use. Making better contact had no effect though...

It is a contact closure switch. You can check if it is working correctly by disconnecting the connector and measuring the resistance across the switch when depressed.

As a test you can also disconnect the harness and bridge the two pins. This will trick the computer into thinking your clutch is depressed all the time. Don't leave it like this though!

Is this THE most awkward switch to work on in the car?? lol my back is killing me just thinking of doing this again...

Yes :tup:

All wiring under the dash sucks to work on, there is no comfortable position possible, and I think I've tried them all :)

interesting, i always thought i wa sthe only one getting delayed start off of the fuse remove.

next service i'm identifying the steering lock issue and hopefully they'll get it replaced with rev whateverthefuckthelatestis, so i don't have to worry too much. i noticed sometimes it'll take 5 seconds to get the car starting to turn over, sometimes it is normal...weird.

makes you wonder what kind of feedback loop that missing fuse is doing to the ecu O_o;

:icon17: Sorry stepped out of the office :tiphat:

:iagree: She even sent me a PM :tup:

Looks like you found it just fine, but here it is in the manual - it is referred to as the Clutch Interlock Switch (#8) :tiphat:

http://i44.tinypic.com/s1nt3t.jpg

:ugh2: I'm not looking forward to my RJM clutch pedal replacement and I haven't even purchased the damn thing yet :rofl2:

Anyone have the part number by chance?? I'll look too! :tup:

Thanks Jar!!

Courtesy Parts
[25320U] CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH

25325-Z34001
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH - 370Z (Z34) 2009+ :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Not necessarily. You can go into ACC and ON without depressing the clutch/brake. The fact that it's cycling through without starting makes me believe that the clutch switch is probably giving out. That switch gives the signal to go past "ON" and actually start the car.

My money is on the clutch switch as well. I used to have an '08 Altima and they had similar issues as you described and it ended up being a faulty brake switch (Autos). Swap a new one in and it fired up like normal.

I still don't believe removing the fuse is the cause of the delay either. My Altima had an occasional delay as well and I did not disable the steering lock on that car. Z does the same thing.

I realized this after posting... :tiphat: