would you guys say that plasti dip also provides some protection against paint chips from little pebbles that get kicked up?

Absolutely. I would go as far as saying that I think plastidip provides almost, if not the same, level of protection as a clear bra.


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Third layer drying...almost 2 cans.

Cheap polyurethane sunline replica lip.

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/5350/dsc03206lt.jpg

Got a question for those who have done the fangs. I am going to take this project on in the very near future, but would like to know how you guys dealt with the masked edges. I am going to use 3M edgelock tape, but want to be sure that when I pull the tape off, the Plasti Dip doesnt come up at the edges. Are you guys scoring the edges with an X-Acto or anything?

Take the tape off while it's still wet... Xacto will cut the clearcoat most likely.

With 3 or 4 coats you need to wait for each coat to dry before spraying the next down though... I sprayed my badges yesterday and even with being extremely careful with removing the masking tape, I had the Plasti Dip come up at a few of the corners, and even rip along one of the edges that was masked. The emblems came out even better than I had expected, but I am worried about how the finished fangs will come out at the masked edges...

Anyone here with plasti dipped wheels have any luck with getting tires changed? Had mine swapped on Tuesday and it messed up the plasti dip. I had to take it all off. I'm considering just painting the wheels now instead, but want that same dark gun metal color I had before.

i suppose also 'protected' your wheels from potential scuff marks? :)

That they did. Though it was partially because I went to some ghetto tire place based on my cousin's advice and recommendation. Never doing that again. Besides my wheels were a bit rashed from before (which the plasti dip covered very well) so I want to something to change up the look. I think paint would look better and be easier to clean than plasti dip. Not worried about messing up the wheels anymore.

hey if you're going to paint it using wheel paint, i recommend using this stuff to smooth out the rashes you have. it works great. :tup:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

Thanks, I'll look into it! Don't really have much painting experience though, hope it turns out well.

Plan on sanding the wheels down, then primer, paint, and clear. At which point of this process should I use that stuff? Also, am I missing any steps in my process? How many coats of primer, paint, and clear should I use? Sorry for all the questions, but I get the feeling that you know a lot more about this stuff than I do. I'm planning on using Dupli Color's graphite wheel paint to get a similar gun metal color.

i usually try to remove all the protruding metal of the curbage first using a file, then clean the area with either paint-prep or rubbing alcohol. i suggest remove all wax from the rest of your wheels using alcohol at this point. then apply this stuff, let it dry. then take your sand paper and sand it smooth to match the contour of your wheel.

then wipe the wheel using a paper towel with just water, use a tack towel to remove the rest of the dust. then apply primer. atleast 2 coats. do the tack towel again to remove any loose primer. then hit it with you base coat followed by clear.

Thanks for the help, you have been repped sir :tiphat:

I would spend the $90 a wheel and just have a professional paint your wheels (since you have no experience in painting :)). I plasti-dipped my stockers in white and although they came out good, I'm going to remove the dip and have them paint the stocks white next week. They are also doing the NISMO engraving in black/red.

I'm considering asking them to do my stock lug nuts in red as well. I know that continuous removal of the lugs will strip the paint eventually, but I barely remove my lugs for anything so I should be good for a while.

hey thanks. GL with your project! :tup:


in my area it's 125-150 per wheel to fix and paint. if you're willing to pay that, great. :tup: