Hazard Switch Wiring Diagram
 

I guess this is my week for wiring questions :icon14:. I'm looking for the wiring diagram for the hazard switch. There are 4 prongs on the switch. The middle two are power in/power out (not sure which is which). I'm guessing the other two are illumination and ground. Anyone know the official function of each of these prongs?

Thanks!:tiphat:

Update: I downloaded the service manual, which only identifies the 2 middle prongs as 1=ground and 2=BCM (for manual transmission).

Edit: Service manual is wrong. Correct order:
1st lead = grd
2nd lead = power out
3rd lead = power in (BCM)
4th lead = illumination of switch

Is this the same for the s mode button? I want to make the s mode button light up by splicing the wire from the hazard button to the s mode button. All I would have to do is use the 4th prong correct?

I meant 4th lead not prong. Sorry!

professordave- wat are you trying to do again?

I'm not sure, but I was reminded earlier that the S mode switch is momentary, so it wouldn't work for my application.
I used a second hazard switch to wire up the solid on function of my EVO-R rear fog. Check out my DIY (AK stickied it for me). I had considered using a heated seat switch, but decided against it due to aesthetics.

Hi ProfessorDave,

I am trying to do something similar.... I purchased a s-mode switch to use with my nav's voice activation switch....

The sport mode switch also has 4 pins....... my voice activation switch of the nav has 2 wires.... its a Kenwood 9960.

Any suggestions?


Thanks,
Jay

I accidentally yanked the wires out of my 4 pin hazard switch connector when installing my stereo, anyone know the part number for the connectors?

Nissan wants $150+ labor to replace wtf??

I just need the 4pin connector from the harness so i can do it myself. I found another place that will match the connector with 6" leads so i can splice it but they want $135 wtf??

Actually that was a typo, Nissan wanted $1500 to fix it!!!!!!!!

Apparently this is part of the body wiring harness and it requires the entire thing to be replaced. Total ********, it's just a plastic molex connector with 4 wires, I'd NEVER let them tear my car part and replace a body harness for that. It's insulting that they even recommend or expect that to be a logical and viable repair.

I found a place that will send you the connector with 6inch leads and you just splice it in. They want $135...but that's my option...unless someone lse knows where I can find it cheaper?

Word to the wise, be very careful when removing the console.

Which way does 1-4 run? Colors help too.

The FSM should have that info. There is usually a section after the wiring diagrams that gives connector pinouts and wire colors. If ProfessorDave is right abut the FSM not showing the pins/leads correctly, you will have to match function to color.

I see none of that. Been through the whole manual. That's not how this manual does it. Even saw a few others that aren't really cut and dry. One wire color doesn't help either.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/2013/EXL.pdf

http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/4...ech-sheet.html

For some reason that I can't figure out, Nissan decided to delete the pinouts from the 2013 FSM. They are in the 2009 FSM on page EXL-85.

The A7 uses connector M144 and the M6 uses connector M256. Same style connectors but the wire colors are different. On M144, the ground wire is GR and the wire to the BCM is P. On M256, ground is B and the wire to the BCM is P. I think GR = green, B = black, and P = purple, but I'm not sure. Color code is in the GI section.
Looking at the connectors from the harness side (the "backside" of the connector; where the wires enter the connector), the terminals are labeled, from left to right, 3-1-2-4. Ground is on terminal 1 and wire to BCM is on terminal 2.

Edit: Had connector names for transmissions reversed. Fixed.

Here's my 13...I have a M6

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps1c48d66e.jpg

The white is the hazards. So looks like on my new switch ill put (from left to right) the 3rd black wire to ground, the 2nd/green to 12v?? Is power the BCM terminals? Looks like it from the manual since the battery has a wire feeding the BCM. Any idea on which is the LED when you turn the head lights on the button lights up? Will the 4th wire just get deleted since the new switch won't be able to blink or something when you turn them on?

Now what about he synco?

Just checked the main wire harness if it matters, they are all different colors. The pig tail that the white and grey plugs go to one main plug that plugs into the main harness the colors are as follows

Grey plug/synco

Black w/ yellow stripe goes to solid black on main harness
Black w/ red stripe goes to solid black
Green w/ white stripe goes to solid green
Dark blue with silver spots goes to solid dark blue

White plug/hazards

Orange goes to a thick solid black wire (only wire bigger than the others)
Green goes to solid black
Black with silver spots goes to solid silver
Light blue goes to solid red

Do NOT hook up power to the center terminals!!! Power for the switch is provided by the BCM. It is a "sinking" input - that terminal on the BCM is hot until you press the button and then it is sunk to ground potential.

I'm not sure about the light. I didn't see anything in the FSM whilst looking up the other info (doesn't mean it's not there, just that I didn't see it). What I would try is activating the switch and taking some readings with a voltage meter. One of the outside terminals should have 12V when the flashers are on (may be pulsing) and the other outside terminal will probably go to ground.

No I mean the new switch has a led prong, ground prong, and 12v/power prong. I'd only be hooking the existing wires to the new switch.

So to start and be safe...hook the middle 2 wires to the new switch marked ground and 12v. Only thing is my plug isn't labeled with numbers and my wires are different colors. Ill do some testing first I guess.

Ah. Sorry about the confusion.

Should be pretty easy to verify the stock wiring. One of the wires (the one from the BCM) should be hot (12V) and the associated ground wire should have continuity to ground. For the light, one of the wires should have 12V (possible pulsing) when the flashers are turned on and the associated ground wire should have continuity to ground.
You can check the grounds with the car off. I think the BCM power to the switch is on all the time (so you can operated the flashers when the car is off).

No worries


Ok please don't make fun! My light test stopped working so I made this haha and I don't have a volt meter. Here's what I found out...I put one nail to a ground source and the other nail touched all the harness wires for both buttons...

Hazards...

Orange wire- does nothing ever (possible ground since it connects to the thick black one on the main harness)
Green wire- with the car on or off, when my light tester touches the green wire the hazards turn on like they should (a circuit is being completed using the light bulb)
Black wire- does nothing ever (possible ground)
Light blue wire- with key turned on it does nothing, with headlights on the tester light lights up (the button LED wire)

Synco

Green w/ white stripe- nothing ever (possible ground)
Dark blue wire- with key turned on it does nothing, with headlights on the tester light lights up (the button LED wire)
Black w/ red stripe- with the car on the tester light lights up
Black w/ yellow stripe- does nothing ever (possible ground)

So with only a 3 prong switch, which ground wires out of the possibly 2 do I use?

Not the best solution but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

Orange & Black = ground. One of those will be the switched side of the switch. In this case, that wire will be grounded, too. With a meter, you could measure resistance to ground and verify. To tell which one is the switch, you need an ohmmeter or continuity checker.
Green. That will be the wire from the BCM.
Lt Blue = illumination. If the light is normally on with the dash lights (I haven't noticed mine), then I think you got that one right, too. It would be nice to be able to check the voltage as the dash lights are adjusted to confirm this.

Grn/Wht & Blk/Yel = ground. See above.
Drk Blue. Same as Lt Blue above.
Blk/Red. Should be coming from the BCM but I haven't look at the schematic so it may be Ign.

A cheap multimeter from the auto parts store (or WalMart, or Radio Shack, or ...) will be good enough for what you are doing and they can be found for $5-20.

Yeah I know haha.

So do the grounds matter being one switch and one not?

I'll buy a meter but I guess I'm planning to..

Green=12v prong on switch
Lt blue=LED prong on switch
Orange and black or just one or the other=ground prong on switch

Grn/Wht and Blk/Yel or just one or the other=ground prong on switch
Drk Blue=LED prong on switch
Blk/Red=12v prong on switch

A ground is a ground but which one of those grounds goes to the switch is important when you do your rewiring since you don't seem to be sure that the switch pins are in the middle of the connector and the illum pins are on the outside as per the FSM I have.

You seem to be adept at Redneck Engineering, so run a hot wire to one side of your test lamp (use a fuse) and a wire from one side of the switch (the uninstalled switch, not the wiring) to ground. Wire the other end of the test light to the other terminal on the switch. You should have a series circuit from hot to light to switch to ground. Push the button and the light should come on. This will verify the switch terminals and you should be able to tell which wire it is from that.

Just thought of this and don't want to edit all that above: You can use the light for the ground wire and run the hot straight to the switch.

I'm sure your right and it would make sense. Middle 2 (1 and 2) are for the switch on/off of hazards and s-mode and outside 2 (3 and 4) are for when the lights come on so you can see the button at night.

Lol hey I turn a wrench great, just never learned, studied, read up on electronics and stuff. If the manual doesn't say red to green, blue to black etc I'm lost.

Took me a minute to understand all that but I already know what my terminals will be for the new switch so I don't need to do all that (unless I'm totally lost). I'm getting confused because we might be talking about 2 different things.

Here's my switch...

Box says 1 prong for 12v, 1 prong for ground, and 1 prong LED (it's the single copper one)

So if grounds a ground then just hook the orange and black together and run them to the ground prong on the new switch and Blk/yel and gre/wht together on the other switch?

But I feel that's wrong or why else would nissan make a 4 wire switch when 3 would do? I think I'll need to leave 1 ground wire taped up. the inside of the new switch has the LED able to be grounded using the negative side of the LED to the ground prong already in place?

I guess using just one ground would mean unlike OEM where I'll have a button light off during the day and on at night with the headlight, the new switch and LED I'll have to decide if its a 24/7 on light or only on when I turn the headlights on...:crying:

Ah. For some reason I was under the impression that your wiring was different than the '09 FSM I'm using. Apparently it's just the wire colors.

There does appear to be some miscommunication here. Not unusual on the Intertubes. I think the main problem is my mistaken belief that your wiring was different.

You only need one of the grounds (assuming the other end of both wires is a good ground, which it should be). I'd go ahead and connect both ground wires. If you only connect one, use the largest wire (but I'm guessing they are the same size).

It is "good engineering" to isolate computer circuits from "external" circuits but that's a bit of overkill in a modern car where you have excellent grounding. Plus, this is a digital I/O line, not an analog sensor, and noise is not as critical when you are looking for on/off. Theoretically, separate circuits would be best; in practice, it doesn't make a lot of difference. I'm guessing that the reason Nissan did it their way is: If the ground for 3-terminal switch has high resistance (eg, corroded connection), then it would be possible for the power going to the light to feed into the switch circuit (and vice versa) - as long as you have a good ground, that shouldn't be a problem. Even with a poor ground, it shouldn't be unsafe, to you or the car, in your situation. It might not work right, but it shouldn't do any harm.

As long as you have a good ground, the light should work properly. The "other" end of both wires are grounded and at the same potential, so, electrically, the terminal ends are the same.

I'm hoping so. I mean I know the power of both are in for on/off and out for illum and 1-2-3-4 are all in the same spots on both clips. If a grounds a ground it shouldn't matter although if I did only use 1 I'd have to use the one for function of on/off and not illum.



The wires on the pig tail are all the same size. The wires on the main harness that the pig tail clips into are all smaller but one. The one that's different is even bigger than the wires in the pig tail. That's the one that the orange wire attaches to on the hazards which appears to be a ground and its on the outside which possibly means the ground for the illum of the hazard LED. But that's odd because the ground on the outside for the s-mode illum is a really small wire like all the main harness wires are. The big wire I'm talking about is solid black though. Since all my body panels are off you can see every ground bundle of 10 or so all over the car are all solid black wires of different thicknesses.

Well since I'm just plugging into the main harness in a way, the other ends where ever they go, the engineers of the grounds and such have already been taken care of. I just need to know now which wire goes where on the new aftermarket switch. O I gotcha. Kinda like new homes doing isolated water lines for everything in the house. No pressure drops and if there is a leak it can be turned off easy without draining the whole houses water lines.



Why would I need a ground using the factory wires just plugged into the new switch? Or are you talking about a good ground within the new switch?

In practice, it doesn't really matter. The bigger the wire, the better, but the current through the light is minimal and the current through the switch is almost zero.

When I say "good ground" I mean "low resistance ground".

Do you have a schematic/diagram showing how the switch is wired internally. One of the switch terminals probably powers the light (internally) and the third leg is the ground for the light, but, w/o a diagram, impossible to be sure from here.

Sure do...

To wire that switch as a remote for the flasher button, connect the BCM wire to 3 and connect 1 & 2 to ground. The way the switch/light is configured the light will either be on ALL the time (if BCM wire is connected to 2) or never (with BCM to 3). Edit: Since the light won't work anyway, no sense in hooking up 1.

It may work if you connect BCM to 3 and only connect 1 to ground; nothing connected to two. This will put the LED in series with the BCM/ground which may give the circuit too much resistance. Worth a try. Can't harm anything. Light would be on when the switch is on; no flash.

If no harm comes I'll go try now as I just got home with the switches.

If it works, the light may be dim. There is a resistor in the BCM that limits current for the sinking circuit.

To simplify this I'm no long going to talk about the pig tail...just the main wire harness as seen in the picture.

Just for reference though, pig tail colors to main harness

Orange to main is thick black- ground
Lt blue to main is red- LED in OEM button turns on when headlights turn on
Black to main is grey- ground
Green to main is pink- when this wire is grounded at any time (car on or off) the hazards come on.

Ok, pink and grey go together and the hazards work but no LED. Black and red go together and I get the bright LED but no hazards. I take it this is it? I either get a LED or I get the hazards which of course I want.

Any other configuration I do, I either get a dim LED or a bright LED except if I do pink and red together I get hazards but again no LED.

Yep. With that switch, you can't have your cake and eat it too.

The problem is that you are working with a sinking circuit and most switch/light combos are meant to switch power to a device. That's why Nissan used a four terminal switch/light.

Lol gotcha. And FYI I have to do grey and pink to prongs 2 and 3. Using the actually ground prong for the switch (number 1) doesn't work. Now off to do the s-mode. I'm thinking using 2 and 3 again and the middle two wires will do it, I hope.

I don't remember looking at the S-Mode circuit, but if it's another sinking input then wire it the same as the flasher. The S-Mode switch may be momentary contact instead of the NO switch you are using.

That's what I'm thinking since the OEM switch is press quick to turn on, and press and hold for a few seconds to turn off...

**** I know it is. The OEM hazard looses height when you press it down till you press it again. The s-mode stays same height no matter what. Looks like I need to swap that switch. And looking online those only have 2 prong switches.

Well everything's done and everything works. Except one thing. Notice the stereo and heat controls don't light up. Kinda odd since the grounds I didn't use only went to a switch and not to a grounded source. I'm thinking the orange to thick black wire on the main harness needs a new ground home. For both the hazards and s-mode I only used the two middle wires on the pig tail harness.

Edit. Actually it probably is the thick black wire. After finishing the hazard switch I hooked the s-mode back up as stock. I noticed then the s-mode didn't light up. So that means that thick black wire must have been grounding both switches illum lights and these other lights some how.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps04b7518e.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps450d6c96.jpg

I'm glad to hear you got it working. :tiphat:

It may be a ground problem but could be the illum power circuit. Check the wiring diagram and see if the stereo/heat lights have a common supply or common ground with the flasher/S-mode lights. If they don't have anything in common, then you may have knocked a connector loose.

Wasn't the large black to a ground. O well, I've lost a few lights.

This should be an easy fix. I think when you cut the wires you cut one (or two) that was feeding (and/or grounding) the other lights. I'll take a look at the schematics later. Have an appt at the dealer in a few minutes; I'll try to remember to look it up when I get back.

I found the lights in the INL section of the FSM but the schematic doesn't give a clear indication of how it's physically wired without digging through pinouts and such. I think you broke the circuit to the lights that are out when you did your rewiring but can't eliminate a loose connector.

Reconnect the wires that you didn't use. Connect the ground wires to ground and the illum power wires to an illum power point.