Maybe the dampers are too large then for this particular application?

to large meaning the diameter of the strut? any thinner it most likely wont hold the hood up.

but Kenchan figured it out! and our Z has no buldge :)

Ryan...Do you happen to know the spring pressure of those cylinders? They seem to be available in 10 lb force increments....

Not sure how moving the fender side ball an inch to the right/left would affect that much given the very slight change in angularity..

I will need to check tomorrow. but i dont think it will affect it at all.

off the top of my head i know its about 80+ lb pressure.

all didnt clean the hatch area before taking the pictures :stirthepot:

I meant in terms of diameter. But it could also be the spring rate or perhaps both the diameter and the spring rate. For example a smaller diameter strut with the same or a lesser spring rate might work just as well if it's mounting points were more in a straight line. A smaller diameter strut would also have less likelihood of rubbing. I see Modshack has already asked about the spring rates of your struts.

Zpirate- the diameter is 19.6mm for ryan's. this is over the CF part of the housing.

The NRG i have on my G is smaller but only marginally... like 18.0mm. the car needs more like 10mm additional clearance for the dampers if it was not to rub the battery cover surround piece... there is just no room.

the structure of the 370Z is completely different from your 350Z and my G35C... there's really not much room in there~. :)

i dont think it's going to change all that much as far as the force... and honestly speaking, these are retail $99... so manufacturing cost is $25 for the pair...that's like less than $10 each for the dampers themselves. i dont expect them to be extremely accurate as far as spring pressure consistency. :icon17:

cant wait to see how you clear the battery cover side. :pics:

19.6mm (.77")...Correct. Readily available cylinders from my source are 19.1 (.75") without the CF, so little difference there. Spring rate is really not an issue here as Ryan's do the job (I was curious more than anything), but the struts I've found can be spec'd from 20 to 130 lbs in 10 lb. increments so there seems to be some precision in the manufacture of these..

yah, my decimal point is in the wrong area... :icon14:

Status update on mine:
We got them on during lunch but took them off. Issues:
~Bulge in the center of the hood
~Touching the Password JDM pieces (so it will touch the stock pieces)

We might need to break in the pieces a bit, but not enough time at work to do much testing.

Bulge in center. how is that even possible

We are not 100% sure yet, we have no rubber, no battery/fluid covers, nothing is touching the unit itself.
We wonder if since we only opened/close the hood maybe 15-20 times it may not have settled or if the unit is pushing on the hood at the rear and the weakest point is bending (which is the center).

I wonder if its hitting the fender piece that kenchan bent down a little. We didnt even bend our fender piece down and we have no bulge... :/

We did not mess with the fender piece, bit hot and I still had to grab lunch so we just called it after 15 minutes.
An idea to try out in your shop, is to build a bracket that pushes the ball join that sits in the engine bay over so the whole unit is in more of a straight line, might not change anything but will be better for pressure points on both the hood & unit.