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-   -   2018 Trunk Release (http://www.the370z.com/exterior-interior/128209-2018-trunk-release.html)

StormWhite 08-29-2018 05:22 AM

2018 Trunk Release
 
Has anyone figured out whether its possible to retrofit the new 2018 cabin trunk release switch without the BCM module messing things up.

I notice Z1 Motorsports are stocking it which perhaps indicates it is possible.

SouthArk370Z 08-29-2018 06:57 AM

It should only require putting the new switch in parallel with the existing switch. But I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams, so I could be wrong.

2011 Nismo#91 08-29-2018 09:59 AM

Wow $48 for a switch! Here are some cheaper ones that would work for less then $10, had them bookmarked for a future project.

https://www.wiringproducts.com/full-...ocker-switches

mlsully 08-29-2018 11:40 AM

Lol....buys expensive car and then complains about a $50 switch. Buy used ones off eBay for less.

StormWhite 08-29-2018 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlsully (Post 3782017)
I did this on my 2015 last year. You will need the switch (I used the one from a G35). The wire you tap into is in the BCM behind the passenger kick panel. Its a gray wire, bottom corner of 40 pin the harness. If I remember correctly the pin number is 36. This is a negative pulse system, so tap into that wire and the other wire for the switch goes directly to ground.

Thanks for the info.:tiphat:

I bought this switch from Ebay. Cheapest I could find even with UK postage.

Sully,
I guess its a momentary switch and I use two of the four terminals?
Did you buy a connector for the switch or solder the wires?
Do you reckon the BCM will still be on the passenger side on a RHD car?

Jayhovah 08-29-2018 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlsully (Post 3782105)
I bought a used switch that had the harness still attached, but the wires were cut off.

That's what I'd like to find....

StormWhite 08-29-2018 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlsully (Post 3782105)
I bought a used switch that had the harness still attached, but the wires were cut off. 2 wires go to a switched power source for the light on the switch. I tapped into another harness under the center console for this. So when I turn on my head lights, the switch lights up like the factory one would. The other two pins are for the release itself. Just ground one and then run a wire to the BCM. If it’s not under the panel on the right side of the car, check the left.

The bottom harness in the pic is what you’re looking for under your kick panels.

That makes sense - I had overlooked the switch illumination.

I would really like to source a plug, I am hoping its a JST but I don't know the size. It might become clearer when the switch arrives.

When I was younger you could wander round car scrapyards removing parts you want but these days with health & safety in the UK you cannot do this any more in case a car falls on you.

DeliriousClam 08-29-2018 07:42 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by mlsully (Post 3782017)
I did this on my 2015 last year. You will need the switch (I used the one from a G35). The wire you tap into is in the BCM behind the passenger kick panel. Its a gray wire, bottom corner of 40 pin the harness. If I remember correctly the pin number is 36. This is a negative pulse system, so tap into that wire and the other wire for the switch goes directly to ground.

Here

NorthStyle 08-29-2018 09:03 PM

mlsully and DeliriousClam - you both are awesome. Thanks for the info!

NorthStyle 09-04-2018 06:47 PM

Question for those that have installed the trunk release using an OEM switch: the switch and pigtail I received has four wires coming from it (black, black/grey, blue, purple). Since mlsully said that it's a negative pulse switch, I'm assuming I'll be using the two black wires to complete the circuit (please correct me if I'm wrong). If that's the case, which of the remaining blue and purple wires would be used for illumination and what is the extra wire used for, if anything? My pigtail came from a Nissan Murano, if that matters.

http://i.imgur.com/27jtFb0l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/lVnnXpel.jpg

cooltoy 09-04-2018 07:33 PM

You are doing great work, but sorry, I do not see the point of this mod. One still has to walk to the hatch and lift it. What difference does it make if you press a button inside or outside?

I am not trying to be negative or diminish your work in any way. Just trying to understand.

Maybe if I was explained what the advantage was, I would do this mod too.

mlsully 09-04-2018 08:11 PM

I’ve used it many times where I pop my hatch when I pull up to a friend’s house for them to throw **** in the back of the car. It’s easier than trying to explain where the outside button is. Yes, for the most part it is redundant, but it’s a quick $20 mod and fill up the blank button slots.

NorthStyle 09-04-2018 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlsully (Post 3783343)
I’ve used it many times where I pop my hatch when I pull up to a friend’s house for them to throw **** in the back of the car. It’s easier than trying to explain where the outside button is. Yes, for the most part it is redundant, but it’s a quick $20 mod and fill up the blank button slots.

Pretty much the same... and it gets rid of the last blank in my center console so that's just an extra plus.

cooltoy 09-04-2018 09:57 PM

No way anybody but me touches my car (other then dealership staff i guess).

NorthStyle 09-05-2018 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooltoy (Post 3783361)
No way anybody but me touches my car (other then dealership staff guess).

Well then this probably isn't for you.


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