Seibon CF Hood/Aerocatch Latch Install
 

Saw this and knew it was exactly what I was looking for:

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Called Jtran for a quote but they said Seibon didn't make that hood anymore. Needless to say I was crushed. So I searched the internet and found lots of places I could purchase online. I also read about counterfeit issues so I contacted Seibon directly and it turns out the hood was not discontinued. I ordered direct from one of their distributors and it shipped in about 3 weeks.

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The first decision was where I wanted the latches:

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I like the vertical more than the horizontal orientation; it just fits more aesthetically and flows with the body lines. Then I had to figure out where to attach the pins. I read through this thread: Seibon Carbon Fiber Hood Questions (Many thanks to BlackZeda for the help) and decided to place them next to the OEM latches where the rubber bumper rests:

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as opposed to this:

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Install
 

First I determined where I would drill the holes. I knew I wanted the pins located in the flat area where the bumpers landed and I wanted to accurately place them symmetrically. Measuring was iffy without any obvious centerline and with the curves of the body to each side angled that wasn't as precise as I wanted to be. First I tried putting caulk on each bumper and while doing so noticed a hole in the center of each perfect for a screw or bolt or some kind of poker. A screwdriver bit fit perfectly:

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and with a little dab of caulk left a precise mark:

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The left and right marks were not exactly the same so I picked the one that was most centered and repeated the measurement on the other side. I drilled a 3/8" hole on each side and installed the pins:

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BTW if you ever need to remove the OEM bumpers - they screw out:

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Looks good:

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Dabbed more caulk on the ends of the pins to determine where to drill the underside of the hood. I just had to enlarge the hole for the OEM bumper slightly and then repeat to mark the underside of the hood. Once marked I drilled a 1/8" pilot hole corresponding with each mark from underneath, then finished with a 1/2" hole drilled from the top. I taped off the area well to protect from damage and prevent chipping around the cut lines.

When I purchased the Aerocatch hood pins I also picked up a pair of flush mounting plates from Password JDM. They're aluminum and replace the plastic Aerocatch plate that goes underneath. I used the provided templates that came with the plates to mark the latch opening cuts:

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I wanted to be sure they were aligned symmetrically so I took plenty of time to just sit back and look at the layout. They were real close but the right side didn't seem right. In the end I used the paper templates that come with the latches to mark centerlines, then extended those line as far as I could. Using a flexible straightedge I extended the lines to the front edge of the hood and made a mark with a white grease pencil. I measured from the corner of the hood along the front edge to the mark from each side and determine the right side was about 1/8" or so off so I rotated the template and remarked the tape. Satisfied I had the alignment I used double sided tape to secure the mounting plates as a guide for my router and a flush cut bit. You can see the grease pencil marks along the edge of the hood:

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The flush cut bits I had would have worked fine if I had placed a spacer to elevate the plates above the hood but I'm too impatient so I decided to use a Dremel and cutter bit to go inside the opening leaving about 1/16" of material. I used a sanding wheel to remove this material flush with the plates - it took a little of the anodized finish off but that will never be seen. I'd definitely use the spacer and router if I were to do it again but I'm a perfectionist. I used the holes in the plate to drill 1/8" pilot hole for the screws:

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It came out nice. Notice I used the plastic the hood shipped in to cover the engine. Carbon fiber is electrically conductive (brushes for electric motors are made of carbon) so you don't want it in your engine electrical or in your electric tools - use air if you can.

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Then I drilled out the holes to their finished diameter 5/32". Be sure you place tape over the holes to prevent chipping (voice of experience) and step up in bit size(1/8", 9/64",5/32), not skipping sizes, to ensure clean holes. Be prepared - the pilot hole will suck your bit into the cf before you can blink. If you go straight to the final bit size you may break the material between the cutout for the latch and the hole 'cause it ain't much. Notice the one hole that's chipped. In retrospect if I had drilled the holes before cutting the opening it would have eliminated chipping and tearout so that's my recommendation.

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Next I installed the rubber bumpers and marked the underside of the hood to clear with a 1 1/2" circle, then trimmed it with the Dremel:

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Installed:

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Now for the tough part
 

Now that the latches are finished it's time to adjust the pin height. Here's where the problem begins. Because of the curve of the hood the latches are at an angle relative to the pins. Compounding this is the arc the hood moves in as it is lowered into place. What this adds up to is although the pins are located correctly to fit the latches in the closed position, they hit the underside of the latch and prevent the hood from closing. The angle of the pins to the latches is all wrong. Bummer.

I found online three sets of install instructions; one from Aerocatch which was minimal to say the least, one from Seibon which was very thorough, and one from Password JDM which was also very thorough. None of the examples use a hood as curved as the Z's.

Aerocatch states the pins must meet the latch within 5 degrees of perpendicular. I'm considering several options to achieve this. One is to angle the pin with a beveled washer. The second is to bend the end of the pin to clear the latch. The third is to come up with something I haven't thought of yet.

So that's where I'm at now. Suggestions from those with hood latches installed are welcome. BlackZeda has been a big help!

Well done.

Not yet
 

Not so fast. More to come...

Looks awesome


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I tried bending the pin in an effort to align with the slot in the latch but as can be seen in the second pic even though it fit (sorta) in the slot the angle of the bend was the opposite of what it needed to be for the pin to engage. It was way beyond the 5 degree max specified by Aerocatch.

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Next I slotted the pin mounting hole and moved the pin as far back as it would go without a clipped washer. Then I rotated the pin 180 degrees so the bent portion faced forward instead of rearward. Close but not quite enough but at least the angle was now correct.

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I removed the latch, flipped it over, and used a Dremel to grind off a small lip at the bottom of the pin opening. Then I took a round and flat file and cleaned up the opening making sure all was smooth.

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I test fitted and tweaked several times and the pin finally seated and latched. The pin is aligned with the 5 degree spec. Now I have to do the other side.

Regarding the supplied rubber bumpers: they are suppose to fit over the pin and the base of the latch rests on the bumper with a light compression required to close the latch. This is so the bumper carries the load. It seems the bumpers should support a more structurally rigid part of the hood as opposed to just the upper skin. Remember the reinforcing second layer of cf was cut out to install the pin and latch. The skin is very flexible and I'm wondering if continuous vibration and bumps may cause the cf to crack. If the bumpers rested against the reinforced section like the OEM bumpers I would be more confident.

At any rate the supplied bumpers are suppose to be cut down to size but they're not long enough to reach the latch much less cut down to size. I'm going to Home Depot to look for something I can use as a spacer.

Slotted the second hole, bent and mounted the pin:

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Here's the lip on the latch that has to be removed:

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And the transition on the underside of the latch:

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The next step is to remove the hood and predrill the holes to secure the seal that installs at the front of the hood. It attaches with a combination of push pins and adhesive. The hood doesn't come with the holes and I can't install it until after the hood is painted.

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I also purchased a new set of wiper washers and clips (also need to be predrilled) along with a pair of hood supports from Z1:

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After it comes back from paint and I install the seal I'll need to adjust the latches (OEM and Aerocatch) for a snug fit. The OEM push pins for the latched will not fit on the cf hood because they are designed for thin sheet metal. The cf is thicker and will not allow the prongs to spread. I picked up an aftermarket set from Doorman at Pep Boys that are longer and fit perfectly:

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These will also work although they are a different style with a threaded pin:

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I'll wait till next weekend to finish the pre drilling. It's 100 degrees and 99% humidity (at least that's how it feels) and I want to have at least half a day to relax. Can't wait to get it painted!

Alternative mounting required
 

From Aerocatch support:

"I must advise that the aluminium pins must not be bent at all as doing so will lead to failure. You must make the fixing point of the pin suit the angle required or alternatively you can remove a little of the moulded material around the pin entry to obtain a good closure. We must stress on no account bend aluminium pins."

I have to order replacement pins from Coast Fabrication, their US distributor and come up with a different mounting scenario. It would be easier I think if the holes in the hood were not already cut, then I could use a beveled washer to cant the pins, but I think I can come up with something that'll work.

I sketched this up to go where the pin is mounted now:

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I think if I use 16 ga plate I can TIG weld a compact angled mount. Wish me luck.

BTW does anyone know why the forum software continually rotates the pics 90 degrees counterclockwise and more importantly, how to stop it?

Nice going so far. :tup: This is the hood I want! What is the name of it? and who did you get it from?

Seibon BD

They sent me to their authorized dealer THMotorsports

Closure
 

I finished all the loose ends on my hood months ago but never posted the pics and descriptions so here they are for the record and the sake of completion:

Prior to painting the hood I wanted to prep it for the weather seal and washer install. The CF hood had dimples, small indentations for drill points, so that made locating the holes easy. Nevertheless I laid out the seal and taped it into position, then marked the holes to verify the location - the dimples were all accurate.

Seal laid out:
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The large circular hole near the latch is where the hood pin penetrates:
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Holes all drilled:
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Be sure to use a drill stop. The CF sucks the bit in as soon as it penetrates the inner layer of CF and you don't want it to continue through the outer finished layer of the hood. the finished layer, the side that's exposed, is very thin.
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Awesome wright up!!!

Washer fitment
 

After the hood was painted I attached the seal with the provided pins. BTW I purchased an OEM replacement for the seal and the washers. I left the originals attached to the factory hood in case I ever wanted to sell or reinstall it.

Here is where the Seibon hood provided for the attachment of the washer hose clips:
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Here are the washer hose clips:
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The clips are designed to fit into a square hole. Unfortunately I couldn't find my square drill bit and Home Depot was out so I had to find another way to attach them. After scheming for a couple of weeks on how to cleanly install the clips and coming up with nothing that satisfied my standards of excellence, I just happened to find a package of adhesive wire tie clips on my workbench. The bells started ringing and the lights started flashing and I realized it was the perfect way to attach the clips.

I'll add a pic tomorrow for clarity.

The washers were designed to snap into a square hole in the OEM 22ga sheetmetal hood but the cf of the Seibon was necessarily much thicker. The latches would not engage properly to hold the washers securely in place and they would fall out with a gentle nudge.

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So I fabbed a set of plates from 22ga sheetmetal purchased from Tractor Supply. I cut them out with a grinder, used a drill and Dremel for the square openings and did the final fit with a file. There is not much room from too tight to it falls right out so make the hole a little small and file it up to size, checking often. I had to toss one and remake it. Then I painted it with self-etching primer and several coats of enamel.

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After carefully locating and drilling the holes I used a pop rivet gun to install the plates. Make sure the angle the plates are installed at matches the angle the OEM hood uses or the washers will not spray in the right spot. I had to redrill to adjust the driver side to the proper angle.
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