:iagree:

If you get another OEM one, just be prepared for the same $hit to happen again :ugh2:

Dealerships must love you. Lets just replace things without truly understanding what is wrong. I'm not arguing because I am not open to the possibility that the parts are failing again. I am pointing out the inconsistencies in the suggestions and my symptoms. Inconsistencies that no one has yet to actually explain. This is how you explore possible causes and discover solutions. I don't want to just fix this, I want to understand exactly what is happening in MY situation that coincide with the contradicting symptoms that I have. Do you know what else happened to all those people that got their master and slaves replaced and had their issue resolved? They all got new fluid too. Are you going to tell me that there is no way that couldn't have been the problem all along?

Here are the facts for my situation:

• No Fluid Loss
• Pressure only decreases after long periods of not shifting and while the car is driving. If it sits in the garage all night, it is still fine the next morning.
• Pumping the peddle after not shifting for a while returns pressure and pressure is consistent with regular usage in city driving.
• Flushing the fluid corrected an un-drivable situation already for months of regular/daily use and before that situation was corrected, the issue was relieved after only seconds of stopping and starting the engine.

If the system was leaking, I would be loosing fluid and a fluid flush would not 100% correct the problem for months and the actions that were taken to relieve the previous issues have no influence on the parts. This is why I am leaning on issues not related to the parts them self.

When people replace the CSC with an aftermarket, are ALL clutch issues resolved permanently? Are they replacing the master with an aftermarket too? Are they still using GT-R or equivalent fluids?

everyone that replaces the CSC also replaces the Master at the same time, it is a must, if they haven't then it will fail. There is no after market master, but an aftermarket CSC often reduces the chance of master failure, they go sort of hand in hand IIRC.

GT-R fluid is not a fix its just the dealers BS. Redline is what most will agree is the fluid that is needed.

your symptoms are consistent with master cylinder failure which takes place over a span of time. Either that or you're boiling your fluid all the time. But it is your car bro, we can all just offer suggestions.

Its a hydraulic system if you lose a half a cc of fluid and get in air pocket it wont eork right and if you can tell that you lost a half a cc of fluid from looking at the side of the reservoir you must have the most accurate eyecrometer ever. It starts out as a minute leak caused by contaminates in the fluid lifting the outer seal on the csc and eventually it wears the seal down and turns into a noticable leak. Stfu replacr ur **** and be happy. The nissan design is garbage replace it or deal. If that isnt a good enough explanation for you why dont you go hire an engineering firm to do a life and failure anaylisis study on your car, you seem upset enough to drop the $40k to get one done

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The CSC/CMC issue has been discussed at length and fully explained in many, many threads on this forum previously. I'm am sorry that you could not take the time to search and understand for yourself. You have taken a very argumentative approach, which is why you're getting the curt responses. Replace your CSC with an aftermarket solution, replace the CMC with a new OEM one, put in some Motul RBF600 fluid, and be done with it. If you want to argue with that, then you deserve to have to deal with OEM CSCs failing for the duration you own the car :tiphat:

Dude, I argued with this guy before... He kept insisting that normal street driving was causing the fluid to boil which was causing pressure loss. I told him over and over that if just installed the Zspeed HD CSC then the issue would be over. Its bad seals in the CSC, what more do we have to say about that?

*OP, call Zspeed Performance @ 937-665-0450 and ask for Joe. He will explain everything in depth if you are still in doubt with what we have already told you.

^ Op will just say that joe is just tellin him stuff to sell him parts and that it can't be true

This is routinely becoming our bi-weekly new thread topic :drama:

Along with AT v MT :stirthepot:

:shakes head: the answer to all your problems is to get an AT.

:icon18:

/thread

That's cuz AT's are for ******* :rofl2:

I had my CSC replaced with an OEM CSC, I know, I know. Have a lot of things on my plate right now and since my Z's under warranty the total replacement was $100 out of pocket for me. The clutch feels sooooo much better and smoother than before and the engagement window seems much easier to work with. If this one only lasts as long as the original I'm still cool with that. If and when it goes out again I'l pony up the bucks for an aftermarket part. Until then, I'm super stoked to be driving my Z again, it feels better than ever to drive!

I drove both the AT and MT versions. MT was way more fun. I wouldnt have it any other way in these cars. It sux the clutch system is such crap.

I have an appointment with the dealer tomorrow for a free inspection. The tech I talked to said it did in fact sound more like a fluid issue given my symptoms and how long ago the new parts were installed, so they will see. He said he has seen issues pop up due to inadequate or missing heat shielding that was removed during previous CSC replacements and if that is the case, they will flush and re-shield it at no cost for me. I have read countless posts on this topic, but I think my situation is different. We will see what they find.

THERE IS NO F'N HEAT SHIELD it's just a little piece of fire sleeve over the clutch line and it does jack. But go ahead and bandaid that ish we'll here from you again in a week or so.