Specialty Z Max Street Flywheel, Clutch, CSC
 

I just got this installed last Wed because of a failed OEM CSC. Decided to go with the hole package at once so I didn't have to go back in to upgrade something else. I also replaced the MC.

I didn't take a bunch of pics because between DJtodd's DIY and the Specialty Z web page you can see what it all looks like.

Pulling the Transmission: Pretty straight forward and mind DJ's words on the crank sensor, that was a big pain in the arse to get out and back in for that matter. The only other glitch was where my stock line to the stock CSC connects to the lower hard line, the nut was frozen even after PB blaster a little heat etc... ended up rounding off the nut so bad I didn't want to reuse it; so I ordered the lower clutch line piping for 12 bucks from the local Nissan dealer.

The new clutch has a little bit of a harder pedal feel to it but, not bad at all. If your waiting at a train crossing for 20 min, might want to put it in N:eek:

The most notable thing to me is the light weight flywheel. It is no harder to drive than stock so far as I can tell but, the engine revs quicker and believe it or not I would argue that it allows the SRM work more efficient. Downshift revs seem more precise and they don't hang as much as the stock flywheel.

The push-rod and clutch switch needed to be adjusted out because the engagement point was to close to the floor for my liking. 2 1/2 turns is what I ended up from stock.

The only issue I have now is I think I may have some air still in the system. The engagement gets lower/closer to the floor and feels a little spongy as the heat builds from normal driving. I've bled it 2 times and have rechecked the connections from top to bell housing dust cover about 5 times "No Leaks detected".

The whole SZ clutch kit is very well built and feels really solid.:tup::tup::tup:

Thanks Seb

Who makes the master cylinder? Ive been searching all over the internet for one.

Just a stock MC unfortunatly.

Hey Rangerz - well done, with yours. We pretty much had the same trouble as you but got it in.

I also had issues with the CSC line, we had to take off the driver's side cat and one of the bolts on the cat - I think everyone calls it a demon bolt as can only be accessed from up top.

BTW - Rangerz - what was the color of your pressure plate? The pictures I have seen of the SZ clutch have been blue. But mine was Gray... got me wondering?

Clutch feel - Seb mentioned 20% more pedal effort than stock. LOL - mines allot heavier than that - I have it in use with the RMJ pedal and it allows me to set it a little lighter.

The flywheel is a work of Art - does have some chatter on low rpm starts - but with a little more rev's on takeoff takes care of it.

Overall happy with it, wish the pedal effort was a little lighter but I am sure it will hold some serious power.

Mine was grey too.

I have the same one as well, you can see picks of it on SZ blog page from their web site. They make a great system! Congrats and nice write up!

Any more reviews from this exact setup? Been really looking for feedback between the three, Max street, 5 puck and 6 puck.

I went with the Max Street and other than the chatter at idle the clutch feel great with just a bit more pedal effort. The car revs a bit quicker and going from 4th to 5th gear seems shorter but maybe thats just me. Great clutch :tup:

I have the street max.and I put the RJM adjustable pedal in.

Design and install:

Design, fit and fish are all top notch. The only thing I would dock points on are the length of the main clutch line "it is just a bit on the snug side could use about 2 more inches" the bleed tube could be designed to attach to the bellhousing which would allow a bit easier bleeding.

Operation:
As stated pedal effort is a little heavier but, not bad. Clutch engagement is smooth and solid. You will have chatter.

Recommendation:
I opted to get the RJM pedal to have the ability to adjust the engagement point to my liking. With the stock pedal and subsequent adjustability I wasn't able to get it where I wanted. It worked fine it was just to near the floor for me. I most likely had some adjustment issues on my part that exacerbated the issue.

finial thought would I buy it or recommend it? YES!! Solid clutch:tup:



2.

It chatters like mad at anything less than 2k rpm. It chatters 2x more than stock (ninja edit). My 6 puck clutch pedal engagement is too low Imo. I put 2 turna on the U thing to bring it out but still too close to the floor Imo (biggest gripe for me). The pedal got spongy the other day and had to bleed it again. Mine was/gray also. like stated above, the bleed line could use a few inches to make it easier to bleed.

YzGyz

Do you think the puck style plate makes it chatter more than the Max Steet full plate? I ask because I wouldn't say mine chatters like mad...just has some chatter.

I really have no idea as I have not heard the max street or high five. I think the oem chatters like crazy for a stock car. My 6 puck chatter 2x as much. I can swear it chatters at full engagement and just reving from 1k To 2k. Try it and tell me what you think. I do 100% think this clutch/flywheel is a lot more grabbier as I have stalled a few times since installing it. I don't like to Rev and put a lot of gas as I start from a stop. Then again, my clutch pedal engagement is not in my ideal location.

YzGyz

RJM pedal will give you the engagement you're looking for. I had the same issue which wasn't great for the track.

I have chatter when at idle, but it's not radical at all. I removed my clutch helper spring and that helped a lot for me. The only place I have an issue is from second to third from time to time, but my engagement points are above the mid point for the most part. I have had mine for over a year...boosted and and almost 14K on it. I will see how it holds now that have some significant torque on 100 octane!

Follow up, my clutch pedal was spongy a few days ago. I drafted 2 siblings, one on the clutch and one topping off the reservoir. The pedal was good for ~75 miles and is now spongy again. This is kinda pissing me off. the engagement is 1.5" off the floor. Grrr! ! the next day I have off, I plan to shorten the screw attached to the clutch pedal, bleed the system some again, then lengthen the scew to bring the engagement as high up as possible. I'm thinking that this Tilton csc holds more oil and thus need a longer clutch piston travel to operate correctly. Such a pain. This is getting me paranoid thinking the ss line to the csc was not tight enough or came loose. Grrr!

YzGyz

Any update on this? Were you able to fix the problem?

I shortened the piston then re-bleed the system again a day or two after that post. It's back to being drivable again. However, I'm still bothered by the amount to travel before engagement which is about 1/2 way depressed. I feel that the car is no longer a good daily driver anymore. She drives fine and is still a hoot to drive but I have to "work" when I shift now. I might have to get the RJM pedal to remedy this problem. That in itself is bs in my book. Sure the pedal is super cool and functional but the fact that the "new clutch" does not "feel right" sucks. I'm thinking of asking a local member with the same/similar setup if I can stomp on his/her clutch (no sexual intent here) and see how it feels.

YzGyz

Ps, the clutch, flywheel and csc looks and feel very very well made. It's the functionality that sucks so far.

YzGyz

I'd like to apologize in advance for any novice thinking right here if it is the case.


love the review - i've been very interested in replacing my clutch for a much grabbier one, as i prefer really really low engaging fast grabbing/lurch your car forward once you start releasing the clutch-kind of clutch. My bmw m3 engagement is literally half an inch off to an inch off the floor, with a small window.

I've had the RJM pedal installed on my stock clutch for a year now. It's definitely night and day from the stock pedal. I've set it as low as i can (i think). I did notice that you give up a little clutch stiffness when lowering the friction point. I also noticed that you give up clutch grabbiness by widening the clutch engagement point.


With the ZSpeed clutch do you think it's possible to keep the clutch engagement point really low, with a relatively small engagement point for grabiness?

Any long term reviews from those who have had this for a long time? 20-30k + miles.

My clutch pedal engagement is back to being 2'' off the floor again. Driving the car is a pain now. There is no way to slip the clutch or drive her "smoothly" now. There is just not enough pedal play. The extra grabby clutch adds to the difficulty of shifting. To give you an idea on how bad it is. My head jerks when shifting from 4th to 5th gear.

I'm going to E-mail Specialty Z and see what they think. I mean I have bleed her like 3 or 4 times with 3 people, one at the reservoir, one on the pedal, and me under the car at the bleed line.

I really hope I don't have to remove the transmission again. But, if do, I will. I will check back with updates.

YzGyz

Thanks for the continued feedback.

I don't need a clutch quite yet (actually probably not til 2016, since I am out of the country for a while). I was leaning towards the SpecialtyZ kit. I'd planned on the RJM pedal anyway, so I am not necessarily concerned about the clutch engagement in terms of enjoyability. however, it does concern me that it seems to be designed this way. Which makes me wonder, will it cause undue problems by putting stress on the transmission or at the very least the hydraulics.

It'll be interesting to hear what SZ has to say.

In all honesty, the kit looks very well made. Then again, I don't know jack about these type of things. The car drive fine other than that it is one hell of a jerky ride since it's an on/off with no in between. Knowing what I know now and had to pay again, I would not necessarily pass the Specialty Z kit up yet. I will see how things turn out with the CS side and how they can help me handle the issue.

YzGyz

Any update on this? I'm literally about to order my 6puck setup tomorrow, replacing the master slave at the same time and swapping to Redline tranny/rear diff fluids.

I've been through two of the max Street clutch kits in 3 years. I had them install it after having the typical slave and master cylinder issues and needed something reliable for tracking. The first one lasted a year, possibly the installer setting it up incorrectly, but I've been told that the clutch disc/plate manufacturer is known for poor stack construction.. the components showed signs of tearing and burning when it was disassembled. The second one just started slipping at 23000. One light track day and daily use on each with 320 wheel hp manual 6. The first one was fraught with pressure feel and chatter issues. The second one Sebastian rebuilt and put it in himself and it functioned quite a bit better until yesterday. Not going with this setup again.