:icon18:

:gtfo2:

:bowrofl:

How?

No-lift shifting is just driving technique. Just do not lift when you shift, and you will be no-lift shifting!

hahah, you can do this, but you'll also be replacing transmissions as fast as clutches...

most no-lift-shift systems limit your rpm when the clutch is down so you don't blow up your transmission

1. I wasn't trying to break your balls. I was sincerely trying to help
2. You had 12 posts so forgive me for thinking you were new
3. If you're not new and did your research then why did you even attempt using gtm?
4. Again I wasn't trying to be sarcastic I was genuinely concerned for your pockets.

Tranmission and engine will be fine. Its the clutch that takes the hit. If you have a ceramic clutch that is made for launching it will hold just fine. It does shock the system a bit when you use the factory rev limiter but hey that just makes you faster! lol. I have my no lift set at about 5600rpm I believe to lessen that.

If you have a very strong clutch you also move your load from the clutch to the gears. These transmissions are very durable, but not impossible to break, especially with FI. Coming from a WRX, I can tell you many horror stories of people shifting into the next gear while at 7k rpm and ripping 3rd gear into bits :(

But this is a Nissan :)

Its unheard of on this forum. Syncros go but I have yet to see anyone actually grenade the trans. I been no lift shifting since I got the car, and its been boosted for the majority of its life. Second clutch but still first trans. Hell I cooked my clutched doing a standing launch in 2nd.

There is just something about revving to 7500rpm and then popping the clutch in 2nd and watching the smoke. We all know 1st gear is much to short to leave a proper burnout, lol.

Either way I have 0 issues with flat foot shifting this gearbox. You just have to make sure its done right as to not take out a synchro which lets be honest can happen to anyone who isn't the greatest at shifting.

61,000 miles on my transmission. I first no-lift shifted it about 20 minutes away from the dealer when I bought it. The stock 2 piece sprung flywheel isn't a big fan of it (makes a clunk when it bottoms out), otherwise you're fine if you know how to do it.

Limit the RPM when the clutch is down? If you take so long to shift that your rpm even has a chance to fall, why are you no-lift shifting anyway? :)

? ...I meant limit rpm to say 5500 or 5600 while you have your foot on the gas and the clutch at the same time so that you're not dropping into the next geat at 7k rpm and having to shock your driveline much harder.

Hey if no one around here has destroyed a tooth just dropping clutch close to redline, then I stand corrected lol. I come from a world of subarus and porsches...i've seen too many teeth stuck to the magnet on the drain bolt to even attempt this in the Z haha.

If these cars are this durable i think it's time i just get a heavier clutch and start ripping those launches at 5k

I think Charles was taking a dig at my shifting speed. haha. Touche. He has the time slip to prove what hes taking about.

The only thing with launching hard is that horrible rear axle hop, which bushings will help with, I am yet to do them however. You will smoke your tires well before you smoke the trans. The stock clutch however, not so much. :tiphat:

I know what you meant, and I am saying it doesnt make a difference (in my head, at least). If you are no-lift shifting the car, are you going to push in the clutch and then sit there and wait for the engine speed to come all the way down to 5500? I'm not... defeats the entire purpose of no-lift shifting.

Unless you are granny shifting like that, engine speed probably would never have a chance to fall below 7000 before the clutch is reapplied and the engine is braked down for the next gear speed.

Sure anything can break, but all that you realistically need to worry about is the axles and differential mounts. Replace the diff mounts before the rear one busts open, and preload your axles before launching and you probably wont be unlucky.

Nah I have never seen you drive, I am just debating the purpose of even having a no-lift limiter unless its purpose is to ignition cut or retard and burn fuel in the exhaust for a couple pops of turbo spooling inbetween shifts... but I dont know that any of us are running enough turbo to need that.

Realistically what it's supposed to do is keep you from hitting the rev limiter between shifts. Maybe I'm misunderstanding that you're misunderstanding but, with it present when you push in the clutch the engine rev drop down to 5500 or 5600 almost immediately to keep the turbos spooling at optimum boost levels for the next gear (you want your revs to match where your torque is high and your next gear engages)

if you're at the rev limiter you're past peak torque for sure and most likely already out of the turbo's efficiency range.


I had this system set up on my wrx and you can feel each gear just pulling you harder...and harder...and harder

See I am on top of the theory of it all, but what I am trying to say is that: just because the no-lift shift box has cut fuel or spark doesnt mean the engine is immediately at the lower speed. It will still take a moment for the mass of the crank and flywheel to decelerate, and with the throttles wide open there isnt even any manifold vacuum to help. If you are shifting as fast as you are physically able, which I assume is pretty fast if you are experienced and confident, the engine isnt going to have enough time to decelerate to 5500rpm.

Of course, the way I am doing it, the engine is staying at redline the entire shift, working the synchros a little more, but my transmission does not complain, it shifts just fine and hasnt started to grind or anything and that is 60,000 miles on it and it is still on the factory fill trans fluid and all. I had the same experience with my 350z, however that car did break its transmission a couple months after I sold it (but it was 10 years old by then and been through hell, and a new trans isnt even expensive enough to worry about). To have it at redline as I release clutch in the next gear also gives me a nice little jerk of power as the inertial energy of the flywheel and crankshaft at 7500rpm gets blasted into the drivetrain to decelerate it to the next gears speed.

If you watch my in-car vids, you will notice that the car only taps the limiter the first time and you cant even hear it because the shift is already over. You use that first cut as your no-load chance to slam that shifter. Only on my slower/miss-timed shifts do you notice that it hit the limiter.