Thanks for all the help guys. Ill update when everything gets figured out

OK time for another update. I take it to another dealer today. These guys were awesome and practically knew what was wrong within 10 minutes of being there. Turns out, the first stealership broke my zspeed slave cylinder!! The slave cylinder keeps pulling air Into the clutch. Well also the master cylinder is bad. So now I'm in a screwed up situation. Any suggestions on how I should handle this? I just want some second opinions before I blow up on the people at Nissan

Did they show you why it was broke? It is easy to blame the other guy. If they couldn't show you, I would be skeptical about this place also.

They didn't show me exactly how it was broke but I don't see any other explanation honestly. I checked it out when it arrived from zspeed (as I do every part I order for my vehicles) and everything looked perfectly fine. But there also could've been something I missed too. :confused:

How do they know if the Slave cylinder is broken? The transmission has to be removed to get to it. I don't know how the dealership could break a slave cylinder. You put it threw the output shaft and screw it in with 2 screws, its that simple. Hmmm... I bet its just your master cylinder that is going bad. Pretty easy fix. I replaced mine in about an hour.

Does the Z speed unit come fully built, with the braided lines attached and ready to go? I know the stock CSC has to be disconnected from the clutch line to remove it.

Assuming that it does not, then it's possible that the dealership put it together incorrectly. Maybe they cross threaded one of the lines?

Yes, it comes fully built and ready to install. All the lines are put together, just have to feed it threw the transmission hole to connect to the main clutch line (underneath the cat). I would think if a line was damaged it would be leaking. OP said his fluid level never changed. Unless the CSC came defective from the factory, but I doubt that.

The CMC should have been replaced at the same time as the CSC. If that didn't happen, then the CMC is where I'd put my money.

I'm in agreement that the second dealership probably isn't able to tell the condition of the CSC without physically inspecting it.

I would change the Master Cylinder anyway, you can do it yourself. I feel for you having gone thru so much at the hands of others. Find a friend that can help and save yourself some money. It's always recommended here on the forums to change Master Cylinder anytime the slave is changed, they both have the same amount of cycles on them, it stands to reason one is just as worn as the other.
Besides, bleeding is the worst part and if the slave is changed, gotta bleed anyway.

Well the tech told me that every time I'm letting out of the clutch it's sucking air back in which is why I can't get the "play" out of the clutch. Well then the tech at first dealership tells me the that the master cylinder would really have nothing to do with the clutch acting this way. So am just being told a bunch of crap? Lol

And thanks for all the help guys. It's greatly appreciated!

I would not recommend going back to a mechanic that told you the master cylinder has nothing to due with clutch pressure.

99.9% chance you need a master cylinder if the pedal will not hold pressure, Its what pressurizes the system.


The master cylinder is the pump, The Slave is what it says, "Slave" and only does what the master tells it to.. The slave simply cannot "suck air", If it did, it would be blowing fluid everywhere.

We have made our system VERY simple to bleed. IIf it will not bleed it is because the master is weak, It takes minutes to bleed it if you follow the clear instructions included with every slave.

Bleeding instructions, This takes just minutes if followed directly as written.

Loosen slave cylinder bleed screw in short SS line.
Fill Reservoir with fresh Dot 3 , Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 (DOT 3-4 compatible) brake fluid and let sit for 2-3 minutes keeping reservoir full, Fluid level should slowly lower, If it does not call us as your master cylinder adjustment may be off.

With bleeder slightly open at slave line, Pump pedal by hand completely and slowly (pausing at the top for a second or two) 10-20 times making sure pedal is pulled completely up on each stroke by hand to distribute fluid through system making sure to keep reservoir full. Allow system to Gravity bleed for approx 2-3 minutes keeping reservoir full Close bleeder valve.

Pump pedal 15-20 times, Release pedal and pull to full up position. Open bleeder and allow to gravity bleed for an additional 1-2 minutes. Close bleeder and pump pedal until you get a full returning pedal
If clutch pedal will not return fully master cylinder may be weak and in need of replacement.