Oops
 

made a classic mistake of both being stupid, and putting too much faith in a shitty part. yesterday it rained so the roads were wet so I decided to show off the waste of money "the Z" to my grandfather and do a little smokey launch. reved to about 5k and dumped it and it instantly redlined, so stupid me I tried to grab second and then third. It was burning the clutch not the tires. ON WET PAVEMENT with 10k miles on the car and this is the official first time ive flogged it.

So now when I start off it jutters a lot, it stinks like hell....... but it doesnt seem to be slipping at all. I did several hill start tests and a few digs from 3500 and it acts just like it did when I bought it.

something to note, I did the clutch peddle adjustment from another thread and noticed there are 2 "switches" that the peddle hits when its fully depressed and full out, now I dont know if that messed with the timing of the CSC/MC or not. So it could be my fault entirely. I should have known better than to rev it so high in each gear and power shift it like that....... but the thing that gets me is its the EXACT SAME THING as doing a redline shift while in motion, the clutch still has to match the flywheel. In this case the piece of **** failed.

Do you think the clutch is done for? I just drove 600 miles on it this weekend and it feels and acts normal but smells like **** every time I shift. zero slip.

So it's the shitty part that's the problem? Heh!

Aaahhahaha lmfao, but ur car is fine as long as u didn't weld ur clutch. This car sux stock so dont worry about it ull change it be4 u hit 30k miles with a new lighter grabbier clutch n slave cylinder.

Did that once in my buddies 350...he thought he turned traction off but forgot. Dumped the clutch and man I went no where. Clutch smelled for a whole day and felt weird. Eventually it ended up fine again. Hopefully yours will!

Maybe if you had a SR one, it would have worked properly! :p

thought you were referencing your past forum posts. never mind. carry on then

Somehow I was hoping for VDC off and his Z ended up in a junkyard....

Not sure why you would want any z to end up in the yard regardless of owner. But hey, ******** have opinions too. Yeah it seems fine now, aside from the paranoid thoughts im having that its now broken. Any suggestions of popular clutches that support a lot of ponies but arent TOO hard to drive? Dont mind price.

Hopefully you just glazed the clutch face and it should be fine after a few hundred miles.

Whats everyone running? I want something with somewhat oem drivability but also able to handle anything you can throw at it. Anyone have that OSG grand touring?

i do it's a beast clutch, all the twin plates are tricky but the GT is manageable on a dd.

The nismo clutch hands down.

Get a kit from Z Speed Performance. Joe is really helpful and willing to take the time to answer all of your questions. I bought the complete stage 3 kit. I have a TT set up so I needed something that holds the power since my oem clutch kept slipping.

Even though the clamping force is much higher than stock, it still doesn't require much more force to push on it.


NOBLE

:facepalm:

I'm actually speechless :shakes head:

Burning the $hit out of your clutch doesn't count as flogging :shakes head:

Just reminds me of this guy...



Pretty sure the shitty part was the driver :eekdance:

I was hoping for a similar video:



:stirthepot: ;)

Or this (skip to 2:29) :eekdance:

might be okay, if it's acting normal and you've done 3500 launches/hill starts, try also from maybe 3rd/4th from around 3000rpm, mash it and see if it accelerates fine, or cruise along and drop clutch in 2nd gear see if it spins up.

next time, not sure if you did this, make sure VDC is turned off/SRM turned off

Or just maybe grow up and stop abusing the car. :bowrofl:

anyway thanks a million to those that are posting useful replies, piss off to those who aren't. :gtfo2: not in the mood for trolls.

Update, its 100% back to normal now but I have noticed some black residue in the clutch fluid reservoir. I remember another member having a similar issue but dont remember what the problem was. Do I need to immediately change the fluid and bleed the system? is the CSC or MC failing? Not entirely sure how that can become contaminated given its a sealed system.

didn't "abuse" the car anywhere close to each of those videos, I did something the car should easily have handled. 5k dump, spun tire, shift, spun tire, shift..... no spun tire anymore only clutch burn. In other words its a very weak clutch system that cannot handle 350HP with 10k miles of never being tracked, beaten or slammed on until that one very occasion. If the car cannot even handle shifting during a burnout that's pretty shitty.

And yes, VDC off is a habit every single time I get inside the car. Turn on ignition, turn on lights, take off vdc, undo parking break, put into gear and im away.

dude you're an idiot. you proved that by your original question of what you might have. the best thing that can happen if you not spreading you filth amongst other members. some of us are here to help people. you aren't helpable.

why? go read the damn thread im referring too instead of being a twat. If you have nothing useful to say by all means there are plenty of other threads you can be an *** in.

I'm the twat? better than being the world's biggest *******. I've stated this plenty of time...

QUIT SPREADING YOUR FILTH AROUND HERE.

it's so obvious you don't know what you are talking about. some of us are truly here to help other member with their questions. you come in to drop your ******** in the night and them leave.

calling all other members...DO NOT listen to chili!

listen jwick, your posts so far here are not appreciated or welcome. Stop acting like a fag and just leave the thread please. there are people here actually trying to help, and you posting your flame ******** is counterproductive and unwanted. goodbye.

So chii is still the same water headed fucktard he was when he stormed out the last time he was called out for being a waste of sperm? I'm shocked. It's a shame you weren't Chris Benoit's kid. Go drink bleach.

wtf, i came here with a legit thread asking for assistance and apparently THIS is happening? This how you treat people that have questions or issues with their car? how about we get this thread back on track and stop trash spamming it. second time ive requested this. your bitch mouth isnt welcome. If you have a problem with me then be a man and keep it in PM, dont flame spray a forum thread because you have a personal vendetta against someone.

back on topic please.

"update" now that we have gotten that out of the way I would kindly ask if the mods can clean out all the unwarranted troll posts please.

Is it possible that I could have actually MADE the csc/mc fail by doing the stupid thing that I did? By what im reading in other threads about the black residue in the clutch fluid, its caused by damage to those parts and the seals? So its just clutch dust? Should I get it out of there ASAP?

and for the record, i didnt smoke the clutch enough for it to even be visible. I realized after maybe 2-3 seconds that the tires werent spinning as it was oddly controllable. So yeah..... ether way, ******* stupid of me.

Im going to ask that next time you feel there are posts that are personal in nature?

Please report them and NOT start going off the deep end, and start name calling as this is what you've started here with other members.

This is clearly against Forum Rules so with that Im letting YOU and everyone else know that this type of behavior is not acceptable.

I don't want to see members behaving in this manner so PLEASE KEEP IT CIVIL.

If there's something you don't like Report it and let staff assess it, By you escalating things all you're doing is hurting yourself.

Back On Topic!

Im pretty sure you didn't hurt the clutch, But again try not to do that again or you'll be replacing it sooner than you think.

Dumping the clutch in any OEM stock vehicle will increase the likely hood of damage and failure hands down.
The amount of information and DIY on this awesome site is reason enough - you can't do silly things like burn outs on a vehicle not prepped...

The fact remains that - and I do express this whole heartedly - don't fck around with a 1500kg car outside of a race environment.

You will look like a butthole - and you'll just prove to read like one.

Stinky.......

Why are people automatically assumed idiots when they are brave ( or in your eyes stupid) enough to come on to a forum and tell folks about their shortcommings or mistakes? Most people never do, do they?

so any suggestions on if that black residue in the fluids going to make my car explode any second?

.....if in doubt take it to the shop and get it flushed and re-filled.
prior to that go to the venders on this site and get you a heavy duty csc (Z1) and braided steel line (for clutch) and it wouldn't hurt to get a new clutch - just get a 'sports' Excedy organic clutch. Keep it around till you need to change your clutch - or just get the lot changed at once.
Piece of mind - and no butthole foolery other than a track eh?

cheers

may as well. As for replacing the clutch I only wanna do it once. So if I plop down a million bucks and crack open the car I want to make sure I have something worth doing all that. What would be the most highly recommended clutch you can buy that retains somewhat friendly drivability? Money really isnt an issue IF I only have to do it once. Go big or go home. One restriction though, I want something twin disk or more.

Its easy for me to just look at all the manufactures, look at the prices and deduce whats probably good. But ive never owned any aftermarket clutches for a foreign car so im unfamiliar with all the companies. No one better to ask then those who have the products first hand.

It's also easy to research and research and research - you will come off looking like an *** if you don't try to do so.
There are no easy answers what is best - twin disk? Why? you want something like a twin disk???

Break down your build into sections from the ground up.
tyres/rim/brakes
suspension/chassis
etc etc

It really needs a fine tooth comb approach - researching will allow you to ask the right questions forum people will understand and can answer promptly.
Even the vendors on this site can help immensely with our 'foreign cars'.

GLW build.

All the cars I built from the ground up were classic American muscle cars, so thats what im referring too when I say foreign.

dream list?

Fast intention TT

Already have an ARK DTS.

Running yoko advan neova AD08 R's 265/35R19 305/30R19, just trying them out since Ive already had pole positions and RE-11's on the 09.

Dont plan on doing anything to the suspension as the nismo is decent as it is already.

Plan on putting in another LSD but again cannot decide. The nismo LSD is SUPER TARD noisy and overpriced, and all the other options ive only heard of a couple people using with "yeah its great" reviews for every single one.

Another big thing is final drive ratio, now that I see the new nismo has different gearing it may be possible to have nissan "tune" my cars synchro rev as i dont wanna lose that, if I buy one from them.

Then last but not least is the flywheel, again...... not very informative reviews on ANY of them. So I was just going to find the lightest one I possibly can.

Other than that just dumb little stuff like a new CSC, MC, diff bushings... etc.

I don't understand....why do you own a Z and put more money into it if this is how you view it? It's just like every other automobile out there, you need to change the oil and take care of it.

Yeah I'm confused........did he say he launched at 5000 :eek: in the wet :shakes head:

That only works on Civics/RSX/WRX.

Welcome to the club. Lol for the record 2nd gear launches on a 6 puck do not go well either, been there done that go the Tshirt.

well admittedly i didnt really think too much about it before hand, i was in show off mode. Plus I have a good bit of VERY sticky tires 305/30R19 at 180 TW. so yeah...... i could have had drag radials and had the same results.

and mind you the Z is the deal of a century if you view it as an overall package for what you get, what it can do, for what you pay..... BUT there are some major design oversights and cut corners with extremely questionable quality parts"CSC/MC cough, clutch cough, LSD cough, throttle system cough, bank sensors cough" , which varies wildly from top of the line to absolute garbage ordered off amazon china. that's why my view on the car is what it is. Ive owned a nismo since 09 so ive had plenty of time and experience with it and have learned plenty of lessons. Its an amazing feat of engineering held back somewhat by poor decisions in management im sure based on finances to use very poor quality parts.

100% honestly ? I expect a 40k+ car thats specifically track worthy and designed to be a rugged sports car to perform under stressful situations. Some of the parts used on this car just do not allow for it to reach that level. yeah you should use common sense, which i didnt. BUT if the car cant even handle spinning the clutch for 3 seconds without destroying itself on a TRACK BREED SPORTS CAR then maybe they should consider using a clutch that wasnt from their 5 speed sentra. Its like they designed a car that is for a track that was never intended to be used on one. This point is further pushed by the GTR and its stupid black box and infamous warranty voiding BS with launch control and traction control. They are afraid someone might use the car for what it was SUPPOSED to be designed for, but they all knew it would just break. Why market a product that cannot live up to its own expectations? just my view on it. I wouldnt own the car if i didnt like it for 5 long years. If I had the option to do over I would probably still get a 370 nismo, or the new C7. but for C7 money I would just do the smart thing and buy a porche.

I admit what i did was a little harsh, but nothing over the top. And 99% of its life ive driven it around like im walking on eggshells all the time and it gets stored in a garage, washed and waxed every weekend, looks like I just bought it yesterday. Maybe I was just asking too much of it. Abuse would be like what the guy in the above vid did with that mustang, THATS excessive. As for the vette..... thats just an idiot, with lots of idiot friends who just watched it happen.

You might want to learn how a car works. A hydraulic brake system is a sealed, closed system. There is absolutely no way dust or smoke or any other outside substance can get into your brake hydraulic system unless a line has been broken. In that case you would have no brakes at all. Any black debris in the brake fluid is most likely from overheating. The brake fluid or the seals inside the brake cylinders has overheated and burned. Kids used to take shop when they were in high school. They learned how the various systems work. Now you grow up and buy a car with no idea how it works and wonder why systems fail when used beyond their capabilities. Not to say it's your fault. Society has changed and skills like fixing a car are thought of as lower class. In the day it was something to be admired when a guy could fix most anything. Rant over.

And the only reason it works for civics/rsx is because at 5000rpm they are gutless